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Lower control arms or subframe bushings? (do these look bad to you?)

andante147

andante147

New member
Related to previous thread, but since several guys have suggested doing the LCA's, here are some photos. Maybe I should just do both LCA's and subframe bushings. I don't want to take it apart twice if I can help it. (It's cold in Chicago right now!)

I tried supporting the car from the jack spots and then tried to jack up just the subframe to see if it would move, but I couldn't see it moving.
Also tried to wiggle the tires when the car was elevated. I would say there is an EXTREMELY small amount of movement. Should this be absolutely zero movement?

Bushings.jpg if these don't enlarge when you click on them I'll post them a different way.

Thanks
 


The control arm bushings look ok, they pull away from the metal and shift up or down when they go bad. The balljoint boot doesn't look too healthy. usually once they get torn, it is only a matter of time before they get loose. Hard to say with the subframe bushings. They don't look horrible, but guess it would be up to you on those. I haven't seen too many of those replaced ever. Are you having a problem or noise or something? I would start with the balljoints myself... or get new LCA's that come with new balljoints and bushings in them already and kill 2 birds with one part.. :)
 
Yes, I have a pretty loud clunk on acceleration, stopping, turning. Can feel it in the floor. A shop diagnosed subframe bushings ($850 for four of them)... but several guys on here think that's not likely. I have seen threads on forums where these have been done. So I started this new thread with the pictures to see if I can decide on a direction. Thanks
 
Considering rock auto has each lca for $60 bucks id replace both and call it a day.

Sent using my Galaxy SIII on Tapatalk 2
 


well, kind of - unless doing the LCA's doesn't solve the problem. But I might take that chance. Since they look original it certainly won't hurt to have new ones. Don't know why the shop would have misdiagnosed from a common issue and choose a rare one. Not sure the money difference would be worth it to them.
 
Get a pry bar and try prying up and down on the lca and see if the ball joint is loose or the bushing.
 
I think the book (I forget what its called) calls it a 5-hour job. So Parts were about $200 (I think), alignment was $70 and 5 hours at $90. Not sure why. My Haynes is missing somewhere. But guys on here have posted how-tos and it shouldn't be anything like a 5-hour job/

Though I wonder HOW you get the retainer (that looks like a NUT to me) off when it's on the top side of the bushing. Not sure if there's access?
 
andante147 said:
I think the book (I forget what its called) calls it a 5-hour job. So Parts were about $200 (I think), alignment was $70 and 5 hours at $90. Not sure why. My Haynes is missing somewhere. But guys on here have posted how-tos and it shouldn't be anything like a 5-hour job/

Though I wonder HOW you get the retainer (that looks like a NUT to me) off when it's on the top side of the bushing. Not sure if there's access?
Click to expand...
you take a wrench and lossen till you cant anymore then you can either use the ball joint seperator method or hammer method. with the hammer give the knuckle a couple of good whacks and the ball joint stud should come loose, then loosen some more and youre done. the ball joint seperator is a pickle fork you can rent from autozone for free and goes between the balljoint stud and knuckle, using a hammer it wedges between the two and seperates them. and definatley not a 5 hour job if you look through writeups on various grand prix forums youll have all the info you will need....F*** that haynes manual
 


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