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lost all gears....fml



It's pull the trans. Pull the side cover, pump, valve body and channel plate. It's not taking the leg out of the trans, but it's reasonably far in. Most places would probably suggest rebuilding the rest while they are in there. Before you let them repack the clutches etc. Talk to Dave. He would have added to the packs and you want to make sure you get the same stacking or quality.
 
most definitely, i'll talk to dave first and make sure he gives me the necessary info to have the shop does the same procedure. if the pump shaft broke clean-meaning no pieces going into the valvebody, i'll prolly look into getting the zzp chrome poly pump shaft or would a new oem pump shaft be sufficient?
 
Not sure.. on which one to get. Dave probably has thoughts on that. If the shaft broke, maybe your converter is the billet and can be serviced.
 
which shaft are you saying? pump or input? im fairly certain i have the billet cover as i dug up the email convo dave and i chatted. still sucks either way like mentioned. worse comes to worse if theres debri in the valvebody and such im just going to ask the shop to get a stock trans and swap it in the car and have them pull the 1" chain and the 300M input shaft and i'll demod everything and see if i can sell the car to someone local with the vs cam in it as well.
 


yesterday getting it on the tow truck
2011-06-19_12-07-20_917.jpg
 
Hi Freeman,

I honestly dont see the point to this post. I took time out of my Sunday, Fathers day at that, to help you isolate what the problem was, then you post a thread that your transmission lost at gears. Your pump shaft is not broken or your fluid level would be way overful which you already checked and told me it isnt- I told you it would show a lot overfull if the pump shaft was broken. If the pump cant move fluid then the fluid level sits too high. I then told you since you have zero ISS in Park or Nuetral that shows an input shaft or torque converter problem and the only way to verify that is to drop the trans. The torque converter, ANY torque converter to flexplate clearance must be checked and often nobody does this. On a higher HP car you need all the contact area you can get on the input shaft and that makes this even more important. This step is taken straight from Precision Industries install instructions and website-

"After the transmission bellhousing bolts are tightened, check to see if the torque converter will
turn by hand. Push the torque converter back into the transmission as far as it will go. Using
feeler gauges or calipers measure the gap between the flexplate converter mounting pad and the
torque converter mounting pad. If gap distance is between .060” and .187” it is OK to bolt up the
torque converter. If the gap is greater than .187” install a .060” flat washer between the torque
converter and flexplate."

4T65Es is over 75% of the work I do and have specialized with for 10 years now, 15+ years with electrical diagnosing and troubleshooting. You ask my advise and opinion which I take the time to help you out with and try to be thorough to help you troubleshoot and then you jump on forums looking for help. I told you yesterday afternoon it is input shaft or torque converter and the trans has to come out, there is really nothing more to it than that. I have always been willing to help and work with you and I understand you are just hunting for more answers, but again I dont understand the point of the post when you already have the answer. Sorry to sound harsh and Im not trying to be an A$$ but it gets under my skin since Im the one who built your trans and gave you information how to test it to find the problem, which you found and I verified.
 
dave,
didnt mean to be disrepectful and not pointing fingers. i just wanted to share my troubled issues for others for future searches as well as just other's insights and such. this wasnt to bash you or your work. if anything im grateful for your help in everything thus far
 
Any and all of the failures (besides pump shaft which can be done through the side cover) is going to require having the trans pulled and torn down. Need any help just let me know..I'm somewhat local to you (Quick99GTP) over on club GP.
 


IIRC it was cause the precision TC i bought, cant recall if it was used or new, the inner splines sheared off not making contact with the trans. trannyman came in to save the day and helped me get the car back on the road again later on.
 
Thanks man, I'm pretty sure that happened to mine, roll racing last night, brake boosting, hit it at 40, went to 6800rpm, went to shift,rpms fell off, and was just free revving, lost all gears, got a tow home, sounds like a blower whine, good times, had it on the road for 86 miles
 
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