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Looking to buy subs need advice

coreygnar

New member
I want to buy some subs but I'm not sure what to buy. I dont want to take up lots of trunk space, so was loooking into this Grand Prix Sub Box or this Custom Grand Prix Sub Box Speaker Enclosure 1997 - 2003 - eBay (item 230357616119 end time Apr-11-10 05:36:31 PDT). I want to get 2 12's. I'm almost sure the previous owner of my car (2000 gp gt) had subs, because there are wires for subs threaded into my trunk. I am getting a new HU courtesy of my mom's boyfriend likely to be this one Alpine - 50W x 4 Apple® iPod®/Satellite Radio/HD Radio-Ready In-Dash CD Deck - CDA-105 I'm not totally sure about the wires ill have pics up soon, when the deck gets installed i will ask the guys about the wires. Sorry to get off topic, but i need suggestions on quality and such for subs, I am hoping to spend $250 to $350 on the subs box amp etc.
 


you could go with the alpine type R 10/12 with the bassworks ported box. 2 alpine m-300 class d amps one for each sub. optima yellow top battery and you want to get a power cap.

as for wires you can go with the stinger,fosgate, or kicker

if you really want to turn heads when you riding I went with 0 gauge wire. its a pain in the butt to run but the results are fullfilling and demand alot of juice.
 
I was also wondering on an amp, what is an ideal amp for 2 12's, i know that the more powerful the amp is the more power from your subs you will get (learned from toying around at best buy)
 
you could go with the alpine type R 10/12 with the bassworks ported box. 2 alpine m-300 class d amps one for each sub. optima yellow top battery and you want to get a power cap.

as for wires you can go with the stinger,fosgate, or kicker

if you really want to turn heads when you riding I went with 0 gauge wire. its a pain in the butt to run but the results are fullfilling and demand alot of juice.

prefab boxes arn't the way to go IMO
a power cap hurts way more than it helps
most wire is the same but personally i use Amp Installation Kits
amps and subs took at the RMS not the max like half the noobs in this day and age
tip to save money : Car Audio Stereo - Car Subwoofers - Car Amplifiers and Speakers <-- much cheaper than best buy
 
Those boxes are ****ing retarded.

Second one blocks off the pass through which is one of the main ways of getting bass out of the trunk and into the cabin, where you will be sitting to listen to it.

If you're looking to spend that much on EVERYTHING, look for used stuff.

Alpine Type R's are decent and seem to be cheap.

https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficarau...Speakers/0040_SSD/product_overview.shopscript

Those would be decent, but out of your price range, and thats cheap for subs today. Cost of steel is going up.
 
id start at a pawn shop since you dont have a real big budget. luckily you did say the power wire is ran, so that will save you money.. id buy an amp kit from rockford which are around $40, then a pawn shop amp with around 500rms, try for name brand. be careful at pawn shops, they try to screw you! around $80 for this, then find a sub box that comes with subs likeAmazon.com: Kicker Comp 07DC104 4-Ohm 2 Subwoofers In Vent Box: Electronics
all of these should keep you inside your $350 budget
 


id start at a pawn shop since you dont have a real big budget. luckily you did say the power wire is ran, so that will save you money.. id buy an amp kit from rockford which are around $40, then a pawn shop amp with around 500rms, try for name brand. be careful at pawn shops, they try to screw you! around $80 for this, then find a sub box that comes with subs likeAmazon.com: Kicker Comp 07DC104 4-Ohm 2 Subwoofers In Vent Box: Electronics
all of these should keep you inside your $350 budget

does anyone know the quality of those kickers?

edit: I just looked at the wires, and its definatly wired for subs. There are three wires running from the trunk to the front of the car (2 of 3 i the purpose). The largest wire goes from the battery to the trunk (power for the amp). The second wire is a double wire that would connect to the HU for subs. The third is a small wire that goes from the trunk into the HU mounting area and into one of the plugs that goes into the HU. The previous owner cut the original wire to the plug and replaced it with the new wire. Im not sure what this is does anyone know the purpose of this 3rd wire?
 
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thats the remote it turns the amp on and off so your batt dosn't get drained
and those kickers idk the CompVRs take a beating tho
 
kicker comps are alright they wont make your ears bleed but sound decent
Im running one kicker cvr 12 and it enough for me but im gettin old
 


for that price range your not gonna find very much that has descent quality. unless you do pawn shop but i will second that they will rip you off if they can. be careful there. i had to 10 inch type r's in a vented box and they beat good! i like my single 13 better tho
 
you cant compare a kicker comp to a type r

the comp is single voice coil garbage

type r is dual voice coil monster

You are.... the weakest link.

The ONLY thing DVC or QVC has over a SVC is more wiring options.

Thats it.

If you think otherwise, then you're probably the last person I'd want giving me or anyone else audio advice,


EVER!
 


kicker is a very well established brand, i wouldn't hesitate one bit on buying these subs with the amount of money you want to spend
 
You are.... the weakest link.

The ONLY thing DVC or QVC has over a SVC is more wiring options.

Thats it.

If you think otherwise, then you're probably the last person I'd want giving me or anyone else audio advice,


EVER!

i'm going to steal blues post of the day award
 
i never got an answer which are better type r's or those kickers

ive changed my mind i think im going to just get one twelve for know and if i feel like another ill buy another.
i know where i can get a new type-r 12 for 100 bucks and im just going to find a cheap enclosure. What is a good amp that is decently priced?
 
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