Looking at AC Delco springs for old FE3 replacement - Need advice

[SaukRapids]

I ordered coil springs under Delco part number 45H1139. I'm sending those back because Amazon's shipping isn't exactly perfect. 45H1139 springs must be a general w-body replacement sold in pairs, judging from RockAuto's fitment thing.

Clicking around on GMpartswhatever, I found a part number for FE3 springs 22133030.

I also got one for FE4 springs, which go over the Bilsteins 15782420.

1) Guess my first question is, would the FE4 springs fit on FE3 struts with the appropriate seats? Which seats would be used, if so? That's pretty hypothetical because we think FE3 is rather firm already, tbh.

2) Otherwise, would you bother with the separate and more expensive springs sold from GM, 22133030? Or would you just go with the cheaper pair, 45H1139?

I'm swapping over to the "old" style arms and sway. Kinda looking forward to it. Thanks!

 

[SaukRapids]

Guess this answers that question, lol

 

[Scottydoggs]

i tossed in a set of 4 ebay struts for ike 225 or maybe it was 180, i dont recall really, they work just fine is the point. when your old junk is shot, new anything rides better.

 

[SaukRapids]

Hey Scotty, been a minute. Saw you got one of those weird back wheel drive things. Looks like your 3800 is moving on to the next enthusiast. Congrats man, looks fun!

I started by paying $45 for a single front FE3 strut, "What a deal!!" Yeah, not so much.

Start looking at mounts, seats, bearings..some of which could be reused, I understand, but the price starts getting ridiculous. I would wholeheartedly tell the next person not to attempt to do this, believe me. Actually, if you're reading this, don't do it. I'm looking at half the cost of coilovers for the front alone. That almost makes sense, right? $500 for half? No, because coilovers ..duh?

Personally, I had a place powdercoat steelies this fall just to see it all the way through; I have a problem with leaving projects incomplete. So, forge ahead, I figure.

I agree, like you're implying, it's cost prohibitive. Imagine the cost of assembling the Bilsteins, yikes.

Hey, if I didn't pay $45 for one of those struts in the bottom boxes, I'd probably have that $225 or thereabouts beat. Lol :th_tongue4:

Take care

 

[SaukRapids]

Parts list

Adding a parts list. Didn't need it's own thread. I'll post a pic later of the parts themselves. Some of the pics from the sites look like they're in crayon, lol.

1. Top Nut GM 11516382. It comes on the new struts. Can't imagine why you'd need to order these.

2. Washer/Top Cap GM 22152030. Reusable. Can be replaced with anti-pogo washers from ZZP, although I don't know the benefit on a stock height setup.

3. Mount DELCO 901038. Can substitute literally any kit that may have other pieces included, ie. bearings, insulators, and/or upper mounts.

4. "Spacer" GM 22167000. Basically an angled piece of plastic that holds the strut. Yours should be reusable. Idk if they wear out.

5. Dust Cover GM 22189840. Thin, clear plastic dust shield that goes over the bearing down to the upper spring seat. This piece is NOT included with any mount kit or bearing I've found.

6. Bearing GM 00908554 (exclude zeros if google gives ya garbage). Metal bearing with rubber inlay. Most definitely not plastic like sold with some kits. However, the OEM ones I'm replacing are yellow plastic(??).

7. Upper Spring Seat/Mount GM 22166979. My OEM looks metal. Also comes with many kits.

8. Upper Spring Isolator GM 22181807. Rubber ring that's also available with kit purchase.

9. FE3 Spring GM 22133030. Pictured above. It's a spring.

10. Retainer GM 22166890. Goes on top of the bellows. Reusable.

11. Bellow GM 22166978. Big black flexi-straw lookin' thing that goes over the shiny part of the strut. Clean and reuse if in good condition.

10 & 11. (Substitution) DELCO 901083. One of my resources showed the above two numbers superannuated and replaced with the DELCO number available at a lower combined price.

12. Bumper GM 22173720. Strut bumper stop. Should be reusable.

13. Lower Insulator GM 22181835. Black rubber piece with locating pins. Goes on strut plate.

14. Strut GM 88955411 or DELCO 506273. OEM FE3 Strut. I used the supersession Delco number.

eBay might be your friend. That's all the info I got for ya. It's also all over the place online, lol. Godspeed and good luck!

 

[SaukRapids]

Plastic bearing after all, just a different color.

 

[SaukRapids]

Looking at AC Delco springs for old FE3 replacement? - Need advice?

Here are the part pictures, Old vs New. I'll put what tools I used at the bottom.

Whole disassembled mount and lower insulator/seat. (Numbers 3-8 & 13 from the diagram)

I was concerned about the alignment of the wedge pieces. (Number 4) There's a gap in the ring and the spot on the mounts. It can only really be put in one way. (The GREEN arrow, lol)

The wedge you can see where the bearing sat. This doesn't really look like a wear item.

The dust cover (Number 5) goes under the "Spacer." I guess maybe you might need these? They're kinda like tupperware tops, idk.

The bearing is just easier to see. (Number 6) I probably washed the grease out of the bearing while trying to get the dirt out. I'd use new ones. Sorry I don't remember how to embed video. (17sec)

Upper seats go next. Old one on the left looks almost unused. Only marks were on the top, and maybe it just was like that before. (Number 7)

The upper spring insulator/isolator looks worn.. (Number 8)

That's a bad pic, but it's okay. There was huge pieces of rust stuck on the lower isolator/seat. It's trashed. (Number 13)

This is what I used to get the springs off. I felt pretty confident, although not enough to get the impact in 40 degree weather. The big bessy I got off Amazon ..ebay? . . one of em anyway. I greased that thing real good because it's almost insane to ever go in dry.

You can see the tools on the top nut there above. It's a T45 3" long socket going through a 13/16th spark plug socket. The shorter the plug socket the better. Take the plastic out of the socket if it's removable. This particular one is from Amazon for like $9, and it was barely long enough.

My quality Harbor Freight 22mm gooseneck worked good. Gave it the juice after I had that spring shrunk up like George Costanza.

Got that off and let the spring down. That's it with the old. Still need parts to finish building the new front setup.

Alright, till next time

 

[SaukRapids]

Ok, here are the last comparison pictures besides springs. The proper GM ones are Special Order, still waiting.

Almost everything can be substituted for a cheaper new part vs Genuine GM. The upper seat, bearing and wedge in the mounts are all plastic. Only thing a kit won't have is the dust shield (#5 in diagram) and wedge (#4). Both of mine are in reusable condition. You will need the wedge. Dust cover #5 is not required.

These are the two mounts I got. The Portugal one has so much age on it, I'm concerned about even putting it in. These two AC Delco mounts are the same. Idk about other brands.

(blurry, sry)

Right is the new old one. Looks crusty.

I went with Moog K201271 bellows vs GM. You won't have to go to the trouble of removing the stock bump stops. Although not pictured on parts sites, Moog comes with a new one.

The yellow bearing that came with the Delco mount above has some play around the center circle. The Canadian GM bearings have zero play.

Do you need the Genuine GM ones? No. The possible difference in longevity will be negligible compared to the life of the strut(s).

About the only stuff you can't reuse or buy cheaper is the actual struts and springs. The old isolators will be flat and wrecked, but any replacement is fine.

Actually, a user on fb said they don't use isolators. Apparently, you can change your ride height by just leaving those out.

I dunno, they make springs for that ..kinda sounds ghetto to me but what do I know. I'm keeping mine in, lol.

Alright then, till next time :th_lickface:

 

[SaukRapids]

Thought I'd share a couple notes on my experience with this. First, you may find that your OEM springs have settled to some degree.

I'd put Sil glyde on both insulators on the first strut. It's a grease and protectant. Let me tell ya, don't do that. The bottom of the spring with those heavy compressors made it smush and slide around.

This is how I did the second strut assembly. Sil glyde on the top only.

Silicone grease went around the rubber part of the mount and the inside of the wedge before pressing them together by hand. The wedges go holes side to mount, smooth side out. The tupperware thing goes over the bearing.

Then the bearing actually snaps onto the flat side of the wedge.

My seats had a little sharp edge from flashing. I gave a quick once-over where I traced in red.

Pushed the seat on the bearing.

Sits with the dust shield snug. More snug when the spring rests on it. (sry, blur)

This is the part that kicked me in the tenders on first strut. The end of the spring, Blue arrow, needs to be in that approximate location. My first try wasn't. Then the big bottom isolator slipped, barely putting any material between the strut plate and spring. All thanks to the goop.

There are two holes in the mount, Green arrow. These go toward the engine. I started turning them, but the spring releasing kinda helped it along.

The holes marked by a Red arrow face the knuckle, and need to be pretty much opposite the holes in the mount on top.

I think that's pretty much everything for this project. Lmk if there's any further questions! Thanks

 

[spazzz]

UM, I do believe you have that spring upside down.

Small turn on top

Unless I am missing something.

 

[SaukRapids]

Hmm..I'm fairly certain I put them both with the labels up as they came off, but I'll be sure to go look!

Thanks!

 

[SaukRapids]

They look right to me. The last coils are right up to their seats and insulators. No gaps. The proper GM springs will have labels like OEM. They'd look wrong with the tags on the bottom from what I can tell.

I'll take pictures when its lighter outside :th_thumbsup-wink:

 

[spazzz]

Sorry man.

I ran downstairs and grabbed my old fe3 springs. Both sides measure about 150mm at the biggest point of diameter.

It's been awhile since I looked at them close up. In all honesty, it looks like it wouldn't make a difference what side went where.
I will blame the camera man for my opinion
Guess I was basing it on how the SSCs look since I have mounted those at least 3 times, soon to be a 4th.

 

[SaukRapids]

Haven't taken my old springs to scrap yet. Put them tags opposite, then measured.

Both have the tape at the end of the spring. Kinda hard to tell in the one pic.

Is that not the same? So we're both right then? Lol

This has been learn as I go, so I appreciate the heads up.
Lmk if you think that looks different cause the more pairs of eyes, the better. :th_beer-toast1:

 

[SaukRapids]

I ran downstairs and grabbed my old fe3 springs. Both sides measure about 150mm at the biggest point of diameter.

Hahaa! Both us went to look at the same time :th_laugh-lol2:

 

[spazzz]

Yeah, I used a caliper with crappy inch markings so about 5 1/4 or 5 3/16s. I just went to mm and roughed the measurement.

I was going to take pictures but I figured I didn't want to waste time after giving you a heart attack.

In that diagram parts layout I reposted of yours it looks to be smaller at the top.

The backs are definitely smaller on 1 side, I just checked.

 

[spazzz]

I just noticed the spring picture with old vs new. Wow that is some settling.
Shoulda just used the old ones to keep er low

 

[SaukRapids]

Shoulda just used the old ones to keep er low

I've thought about it. Suppose I'll keep those old ones around till I redo the rear.

Like, I'm fully prepared for the ass dragging Harrier jet stance ..but you probably have a point