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LIM gasket job pointers.

PTGsDaytona500GTP

New member
P0300, i figured it out to be the Bad LIM gaskets letting in unmetered air. I saw the video tutorial and i am going to tackle this with my brother in a couple days. Just wanted to know what gaskets are the best to ensure it wont happen again anytime soon. also how many coolant elbows are there i want to put new ones in as well. Also going to replace my coolant level sensor. Anything else i should be doing while in taking her apart?
 


Teflon paste on all the LIM bolts (12 of them)
GM gaskets or Fel Pro that end with a T. Those are metal gaskets.
Elbows there are two. Dorman 47065HP are aluminum ones. Without the HP are plastic, either should treat you right.
On the LIM bolts, with the revisions to gaskets etc, I use 15ft lbs or forque on them.
Clean residue off gasket surfaces after scraping with brake cleaner sprayed on a rag
Clean the TB while it's off
If you need to do valve cover gaskets, it's the perfect time and ensure you get grommets with them. Grommets are what seal the gaskets.
If your car is NA 97-03 consider plugging the LIM coolant to UIM ports or put on a new UIM.
 
^^^that
Only thing I would add is that when you are done, pour the coolant in through the thermostat hole, before putting the thermostat on. It's easier, makes bleeding the system go much faster.
 
Have enough oil on had to pour a quart into the lifter valley to wash out any coolant that is spilled/leaked into it during removal. Then change all the oil BEFORE you fire it up (will get all the coolant/oil out of the pan). Install cheap filter and oil and let it run a few min, then change oil again using a quality filter and your choice of oil. Lessens the chance of spinning a bearing or 2. Been known to happen after LIM jobs.
 
(will get all the coolant/oil out of the pan)

On a steel pan, this won't get everything out. The drain on a steel pan is approximately 3/8" above the bottom of the pan. If water gets into the pan, it'll go to the bottom and sit there until you start the car up.

I typically try not to spill coolant, by keeping the lim as level as possible while it's over the motor on the way off. If a little bit gets in..I fire it up after the job, turn the engine off and drain immediately. Do the oil change and check the oil for any signs of moisture. If any exist.. I do another oil change and repeat until oil has no moisture. I've only had one car that needed a second oil change.
 
I posted a trick on getting the coolant out and leaving NO possibility for spill into oil galley. It's simple...

Youll need a piece of hose, garden house works, short - 5-10 feet long, a bucket with a top like an empty joint compound bucket (5 gallon), duct or painters tape and a shop wet/dry vacuum.

Cut 2 holes into the top of bucket lid, one sized for the vacuum hose, one for the garden hose. The vacuum hose should just enter the lid an inch or two, but the garden hose goes all the way to the bottom of the bucket. Tape and seal hoses in place.

Now, with engine cooled (obviously), and ready to start taking lim apart, open the radiator cap and place garden hose end into the radiator. Used the male end of garden hose here as its smaller and fits into it well. Make sure shop vac is set up for liquids, ie, removed filter and such. Turn on and slowly suck out coolant into bucket. The coolant will fill bucket and not get sucked not vac if set up as I mentioned. Keep taking coolant out until you can see level in radiator is below the bottom of lim height wise. When it gets low you can also then open up the thermostat housing and suck more coolant from there. That will get thelingering liquid in the lim. You might have to play around by closing up the radiator opening with your hand to create suction, but it works.

Short point of long story is, you'll open lim and not a drop of coolant will be there to fall into engine galley! : )

If due for a coolant flush, is a plus. When done, fill some coolant in but don't worry about air pockets. Drive (locally) to someone who uses machine to flush and swap coolant from that Dex crap, the machine will suck/flush coolant out and replace with new fresh stuff and eliminate any chance for air pockets for just a few bucks more than what the coolant will cost. Otherwise, I usually jack front end up a little to elevate it and make bleeder valve high spot when filling the coolant back into engine!

Obviously, as mentioned, check for moisture/coolant afterwards in oil to be 100% sure... But I've been good when I use this method. A little bit more work the 1st time, but worth it IMO, as it virtually eliminates possibility of screwing engine. Lol.

Use copper RTV, Dont be afraid to use it on the galley (small piece) of Lim gasket, especially in corners!

Use a small dab of RTV to hold valve cover gasket in place so it doesn't shift when replacing.

If adventurous ... Port S/C and paint it while off car, change snout oil if not already done. Change PCV valve too, plugs and wires if needed, thermostat too. Check belts n pulleys as well.

Be careful with all the vacuum lines, they break easily when handled and old.

Added bonus would be to drop tranny pan and replace filter/fluid there as well while having car down for maintenance.

: )

Good luck!
 
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Cool! Good to hear...

Its nice to see someone finish off a thread by letting us know how it all turned out. Not many do!
How'd it go? Easy as pie - right!?
: )
 
I suggest getting your LIM sandblasted. I did my own at my buddys shop and it's %100 clean. Also sandblasting does not pit the LIM or damage it in any way.
Edgar Machine in Ware, MA will sandblast it and jet wash it for you. The Owners name is Dave and I don't know how much he'll charge you.
 


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