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Lights dim when my bass hits.

I was essentially asking someone to do the math to show how much power it can deliever in a set period of time.

The point is, its fine for transients, but continuous, its not going to help much if at all.
 


Sounds like your clipping something!! Adjust ur gain settings... H e l l, tune the whole system while your at it! Lol
 
In other aspects, I have a Memphis Power Refrence 2100 300 W RMS And it will make the lights dim in my 99... Of course, Who wants to have it up that loud... Quality>SPL
 
I would say since it has happened since you have moved to Alaska and I'm sure it's colder up there that getting a insulation kit for insulating the battery wouldn't be a bad idea. What CCA is your battery rated for? Might be an old battery that can't recharge fast enough.
 
I didn't bother reading the others posts but, what size power wire are you running?

Make sure your ground connections are solid. Don't bolt it on a painted surface.

Do the Big 3 upgrade.

Never max out your headunit and amp, always keep it at least a little off of max.
 


A little off max? I dunno if most people should have the gain near half (I realize it varies from amp to amp), let alone past it... but that's one of those crazy things I think.
 
SlowNA06 said:
A little off max? I dunno if most people should have the gain near half (I realize it varies from amp to amp), let alone past it... but that's one of those crazy things I think.
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I agree with you there. your gain probably should not be near max. But it should NEVER be maxed, and rarely near max.
 
The interior lights dont dim when it hits only the exterior(fogs, headlights, etc). I have a bass knob inside the car so it can be adjusted up and down independently. I have a pioneer cd player and i dont max the settings on it to reduce the dimming effect. I have looked into capacitors but alot of my friends tell me they dont achieve the desired results all the time. I was reading somewhere about the "big 3" when installing systems, something about the wiring from the batt. to the starter or something. As to the question about the size of the wires it says 4 gauge on the battery and the ground.
 


SlowNA06 said:
I never heard that before. That actually sounds really complicated.
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The only part that is complicated is knowing where your actual knob is set, and what your radio voltage is without having the manual. I looked mine up online, it's 2 volts. On my amp there is a range for the gain "knob" that says 6v on the left and 0.2 on the right. If it turned it halfway it should be roughly at 3.1, so i turned mine about 3/4 to the far right.
 
SeanGTP said:
The only part that is complicated is knowing where your actual knob is set, and what your radio voltage is without having the manual. I looked mine up online, it's 2 volts. On my amp there is a range for the gain "knob" that says 6v on the left and 0.2 on the right. If it turned it halfway it should be roughly at 3.1, so i turned mine about 3/4 to the far right.
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:th_scratchhead:

Voltage... does not... remain constant... ? This... science... no. *twitch*
 
SlowNA06 said:
:th_scratchhead:

Voltage... does not... remain constant... ? This... science... no. *twitch*
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I know nothing of how most this **** works. BUT, keep in mind that if your radio is rated at say, 2v, and your amp is set at 2v, even IF the voltage is changing, they'd change together, would they not? So they'd still match.

I'm sure there is a lot more science to it, but, that's just how I interpret it.
 
Amp is essentially independant of the headunit so maching gain to headunit voltage is pointless. The point of the amp is to AMPLIFY the headunits output. I have never matched gain to headunit voltage and never saw a need to.

And no the voltage change wouldn't be constant. You have a 2 or 4 gauge wire hooked directly from the battery to the amp. The wire feeding power to your headunit is probably 12 or 14 gauge and run thru a series of relays and probably only sees 10-11V on a good day, so you are always going to have more power at the amp than the headunit.

EDIT: I should add you set the gain to your subs power, not the headunit power.
 
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Here's the thing (why do people say this? Kind of a silly phrase). With the volume peaked (~70-80% for a lot of stock systems), for the bass "hits" (let's just say they occur at 50Hz, 0dB for argument's sake), you typically need your amp to feed the sub, what... 20V to 55V? On my amp, this occurs somewhere around a 30% turn of the gain knob (I've tuned it to stay below 30V). I guess the knob turn bit isn't a totally accurate way to describe gain, since it operates on a curve instead of linearly (I think). Without using a voltmeter, how would you know? I'd bet you a cake that your amp outputs more than 2V at a 75% turn of the gain knob. I daresay you're clipping. It's worth looking into.
 
SlowNA06 said:
I never heard that before. That actually sounds really complicated.
Click to expand...

He is completely correct though.

Use should use a multi-meter to correctly set your amp because most people can not tell by ear on where to set their gains at and such.

It actually isn't as hard as it sounds.
 
Usually you won't have clipping unless your gain is maxed out. Also, I want to say my radio goes to 35, I've never capped it so idk, but I've never turned it past 22 so I'm never at full volume anyway.

Also, the HU voltage and level/gain voltage is just a sensitivity level. So on my radio, 2V Pre-out sensitivity, and I set my amp to roughly 2V input sensitivity. Make more sense?

Another thing, as far as clipping, whatever your Bass EQ knob is called, that is where you'll experience most your clipping issues at. My amp manufacturer in particular says they don't typically recommend turning it past "12 o'clock" position.
You best bet is to see what your amp and speaker manufacturers recommend.
 
SeanGTP said:
Usually you won't have clipping unless your gain is maxed out.
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Try an oscilloscope and report back. Not kidding.
SeanGTP said:
Also, the HU voltage and level/gain voltage is just a sensitivity level. So on my radio, 2V Pre-out sensitivity, and I set my amp to roughly 2V input sensitivity. Make more sense?
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I have no experience with this. Sounds silly to me, but I've been humbled a number of times here. Can you post some research materials for this?
SeanGTP said:
You best bet is to see what your amp and speaker manufacturers recommend.
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You are only correct in a way that I do not believe you intend. Your amp may come with a chart of Voltage output recommendations based on speaker type and wiring. A 4Ohm setup will need a different output than a 2Ohm setup.
No pretension intended, but I do recommend that you read Basic Car Audio Electronics (well, minus the home theater stuff) a few times.
 
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