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Leaking gaskets need diagnosed (with pics)

Wow seems very doable now. I did notice you didnt mention anything about removing spark plugs/wires. Does that need to be done?

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I simplified a bit. You are going to find a vacuum line and nut or two I left out.. Those are things my hands do w/o thinking.. well ... most of the job acutally, but I've done it once or twice.
 
little extra tip i did when i did my lim.

remove the dog bones, remove the lower rad hose from the timing cover, let it drain, then push the engine to the firewall and then back to the rad, you'll see more coolant come out when its pushed back and fourth.

now when your ready to pull the lim off, break the plastic elbow so its not a fight, and then lift the lim off as level as possible so no coolant leaks out of it.

the cooling ports on the lim have a small lip that will hold some coolant in the lim still, rocking the engine back and fourth gets rid of a lot of it. when i took mine off, not a drop spilled and i didnt do a oil change when i was done.
 
Ok I'll try that to. I'm gonna go ahead and order everything tonight. I plan on it taking me a couple days going at a slow and careful pace.

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you can do it all in a after noon. its not hard. once the fuel rail and wire harness are off its all easy.

did mine in like 3 hours. first time doing one on a 3800. hardest part was cleaning off the old upper plenum gasket (aka blower gasket) off the lim and blower.
 


Yea definitley seems really easy once I get everything unplugged and what not. Just unbolting stuff from there on.

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from this.

limjob8-1.jpg


to this in about a hour or so.

limjob3.jpg



before you start the lim job go buy some new vac line and T's cause those are gonna break. the fat hose off the TB may also break.

limjob11.jpg


vachose.jpg
 


the T's will break. so you need new T's one for the fpr, one for under the snout.

you can replace most of the hard lines if you want to, or cut the old ends off the heard lines, then cut 3, inch and a 1/2 long pieces of vac line to put on the T, then push the hard lines into the vac line on the new T.

this was my old factory line from the front of the engine. bbp valve, to fpr, to under the snout line. i replaced it all.

limjob10-1.jpg


best T's i could find local was at advance auto. they have a whole section of vac T's and parts. they have these small white T's 2 in a pack for 2 bucks. best T's around. vac line is sold by the foot. i did most of my engine with new line and the t's for 5 bucks.
 


Water pump will be super accessible. You'd need to yank off the SC idler pulley, lower the power steering pump (2 bolts that you can't see), then it's 4 13mm bolts, 4 or 5 10mm bolts and a gasket cleaning. Honestly though..I've seen water pumps last into the 300K mark on these cars. The pump will go bad when it will. A new one can do the same.

T stat is two bolts in the housing on the LIM. Literally a t stat change takes 5 min on the car with it fully assembled. You pop hood, undo two 10mm bolts, pull up on it.. clean the surfaces, pop the new one in and put the housing back on. I leave the hose on it and all. Two bolts is all I do. Then check your coolant level...cause you let out about 4 cups.

As for capnbreakitall... he obviously wasn't paying full attention and sandwiched wiring in the process. I'll tell you honestly .. I can't imagine how that happened... I've done these things slowly, fast, drunker than drunk and all kinds of sleep deprived. Never could i pull that off.
 
Ok i'll just do the tstat and not the pump then. Some people recommend a 195* tstat is that right?

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