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Leaking Coolant 2001 Grand Prix

i would remove the alt bracket all the way so you can work on it better, as to clean the holes, make sure they are clear of the old broken O ring and clean, and the engine side as well. scrap any film like crap off the walls of the holes. brake cleaner and a shop raged cleaned it out the rest of the way. the old elbows will break so dont worry about it.

i took my dip stick out, wiped the oil on my finger, then lubed the O ring's and they all slid in like butter. and thats it. no rtv should be needed.

a pick set like this works good for cleaning out the holes.

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Oh I would never drain it on the ground lol. I meant in a catch pan. I was reading another how-to that said the drain the system entirely. I just want to make sure so I don't have to waste time/money draining and getting more coolant. Also if im going to remove the belt anyway should I replace it or is that not needed. (Car has over 100,000 miles)
 
If you jack it slightly and put a bucket under the subframe area, you'll catch most if not all. If you don't get it all, you need a bigger bucket. :cool:

Here's the way I like to do coolant elbows.

I'd suggest against the pick set usually. The tensioner, timing cover and LIM are fairly soft aluminum and can get marred up easily. If you gouge the holes, you may not seal.
 
To get the plastic pieces out of the holes in the tensioner/LIM, a long bolt with a washer on one end works pretty well. For example the long UIM bolt/stud is the right size, but you can make your own. Just catch the washer on the back edge of the plastic piece and pull it out.
 


i cant get the belt off. i loosened the nut holding the idler pully but the belt wont budge.

Edit: i got it off but i dont know if that was right. turned the pully counter clockwise which moved it and while holding the wrench with alot of force removed the belt with the other hand. i thought i had to turn the nut clockwise to loosen it and the pully would move on its own
 
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Ok thanks. So everything is all off and now i just need the elbows (waiting to borrow a car). It looks like the mechanic used the doorman ones with the orange o-rings. The rings looked a little worn out, I don't know why the seal failed after a few months. Does anyone recommend a certain brand elbow so this doesn't happen again. I will be getting RTV sealant as well, however some other people have said to just lube the rings with saliva/coolant and just slide it in. Suggestions?

For anyone having trouble with this procedure this video helped a lot.
How to Fix Coolant Leak Belt Tensioner GM 3.8L 3800 Impala Grand Prix 1AAuto.com - YouTube
 
I always use dorman. In say 5-6 years I've only seen two have an issue after working on them.

And..I work on a lot of them.
 
I don't know what to tell u. He used the doorman and sealed it and it still leaked. I'm getting the Dealer elbows tomorrow for $10 more. How long should I wait to turn on engine after using RTV.

Side note, maybe there is too much pressure in the cooling system and that caused it to leak? I'm getting a new rad cap, would that solve it?
 


Pressure is controlled by the cap, yes.
I don't RTV the elbows, however by the time you finish the job, it'll be ready.

When I RTV the thermostat housing, I put it together and have it running in under 5 minutes from the time RTV is applied.
 
This is getting frustrating now. I just bought a radiator cap and its 16lbs of pressure. I read on here that 15lbs is the correct amount. Will it make a big difference?
 
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