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LCA diagnosis????

Mr D

Mr D

New member
03 GTP, 127k mi.

Been working on front end. New KYB Excel G struts w/ HTM Coilover kit, zzp motor & tran spacer, dea solid rubber motor & tran mount, dorman sway bar & end links, & temkin Lt hub, raybestos camber bolts.

I have mild vibration on accelloration, smooths out above 4,000-4,500 rpm, and a knock sometimes when lvg Park or entering Reverse. Seems to be on both sides. Everything is tight, no play in any parts, bushing appear to be OE, but do not appear to be bad & do not have any visible tears or leaks.

I have all but decided to replace both half-axles. I'm over my budget.

Peaople have said "LCA", but I don't really get it. SO I wondering about LCA. How do I know if I should replace LCA? How to diagnos ball jt--for me, bad ball jt=new LCA? Entire LCA w/ ball joint or just bushings?

Appreciate your insite. Thanks
 
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Re: LAC diagnosis????

I'm sitting here saying, I just put up a thread saying try and stump me. You saying LAC, I'm thinking WTF is LAC. You mean LCA, Lower Control Arm.
 
Did you lower the car at all when you put on the coilovers? If ya did, it's more than likely the o2 sensor hitting the tunnel. I had the same issue... The vibration (again if lowered), you might want to look into Vinnie's spacers (check the community vendors). Solid mounts might be transferring some of the vibration too...
 
Thanks BBB, I'll check o2 clearance. I did lower the front, but less than 1".

& yes, I get slight vibration thru steering wheel at idle, which is fine. It's the vibration on throttle that concerns me. I understand how worn axle/cv jt will create vibration at throttle, and knock when beginning to move. But I'm unclear at what point LCA would also create a problem--outside of being visibly damaged.

I understand why people say replace LCA, esp since OE ball joint is riveted in, and how rubber bushings wear. It makes sense that new LCA would tighten things up and freshen up handling and ride. But are there tips/tricks/technique for knowing if LCA--incl ball jt or bushings-- is 'bad'?
 
I very much doubt LCA is causing what you're describing but...

The only way I know how to check a lower control arm is with a lift/jack stands and pry-bar.

My car was all over the road - had just replaced the struts. Put the car up and used the pry-bar between the knuckle and LCA. There wasn't any movement at all in the LJB (there's another stumper for ya Bill LBJ). For the bushings, pried between the cradle and LCA. The front bushings were dry rotted but the rears were heavily worn. I didn't bother with pressing new bushings in...just replaced entire LCA's with Autozone parts. IIRC they were Dorman ~$100/side. 30K miles later and still good.

This is how I diagnosed it but you can also remove the strut and grab LCA with both hands pushing and pulling from front to back to see if there is any play in the bushings. There should be a little play but no clunking.

While prying on the LBJ - if there's any movement at all then they need replaced.

Hope this helps
 


Thanks Rica, I'll put my pry bar to work.

I'm looking at Duralast gold axles~$80 and if required Dorman LCA. Add the trans fluid, and may as well throw in a trans fluid filter, & I'm looking @ ~ $400... ;(
 
if you need new lca's buy them off the net, i paid 98 for the pair shipped to my door in 7 days or less. they were dorman. ordered from partsgeek.

when i needed a new axle i got one from napa, about the same price 80 ish.

you can get a 2 gallon jugs of trans fluid at walmart for about 30 bucks,(get the walmart brand) the filter about 15. from a parts store.

if you need lca's your at 240 maybe, not that dreaded 400 dollar mark. ouch.
 
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scottydoggs said:
if you need new lca's buy them off the net, i paid 98 for the pair shipped to my door in 7 days or less. they were dorman. ordered from partsgeek.

when i needed a new axle i got one from napa, about the same price 80 ish.

you can get a 2 gallon jugs of trans fluid at walmart for about 30 bucks,(get the walmart brand) the filter about 15. from a parts store.

if you need lca's your at 240 maybe, not that dreaded 400 dollar mark. ouch.
Click to expand...

Wow, PartsGeek is my new friend. Thanks scottydoggs
 
Rico said:
Wow, PartsGeek is my new friend. Thanks scottydoggs
Click to expand...


i did notice the prices do go up and down over a weeks time, seems odd, one guy here went there and they wanted 60 a side, still better than 100 a side any day. i was happy when mine came in at 98 shipped for the pair.

and they are good with emails and letting you know where your order/package is. 2 thumbs up from this guy.
 


thanks for looking out scottydoggs. but i think i have vibration from both sides, since i have to buy trans fluid, i'm doing both axles at same time. & i use rockauto.com, seems similar to partsgeek.com Rockauto LCA, 2x $42 ea + $15 shipping ~100.

its all about timing, i have 3 day stay-cation this wkend, and fam roadtrip planned for next wkend, hoped to get everything straight and alignment done. So I was considering paying twice the price for LCAs just to get it done. But....no go.

So checked o2 sensor, and its good and clear. i checked LCAs w/ pry bar and no popping and no movement in ball jt. So I will likely not change them now. THanks for tips!

Convo evolves, axle brands recommendaitons? Checked 6 places near me, the only NEW axles in stock are; GSP, Master Pro, & DynaPak-and I have read TOO many bad reviews of those brands.

Napa near me wants $110 EA for their new axles, CarQuest has Cardone for $70 and Autozone has Duralast Gold for $80. Napa is pricely, I'm not crazy about Cardone, and Duralst Gold is hit or miss in my experience--& all of which would have to be ordered. Or I could get reman?

Anyone have lessons learned w/ CV axles to share before I lay out my $?
 
the truth is you get what you pay for, napa parts are of higher quality most of the time, its money well spent in the long run.

im using a napa reman axle. thats what cost me about 80. been in there almost a year, and so far so good.

and i hate to even ask, but have you tried rotating your tires yet? or had them balanced lately?, im to lazy to re read it all lol
 
i think you're right. the more i think about it, the more i'm leaning towards napa axles. you only replaced 1, how did you know which 1 was bad?

& no, have not rotated or balanced tires. & they need it, its just time--fr lt needs replacing but i dont plan on buying tires for OE torque 5 star wheels. now i've messed up alignment too. idea was to keep miles low until i had all the parts i need, so i don't end up paying for 2 alignments. but, it rides straight and smooth while coasting and braking, only issue is wobble during acceloration--thats why i think cv axles are bad, and was wondering how to check LCA.

I'll rotate tires tomorrow.
 
i'd fix known front end parts then align it. rotate the tires if the rears are in better shape, maybe even balance them.

good chance your tires or the front end being out has something to do with your vibration.

my axle was vibrating like a rwd drive shaft with a bad U joint, if you know what that feels like, it was only at light throttle.

others here have had them vibrate only under throttle, and some hear a clicking when turning. i guess it all depends on how soon you feel somethings not right, and how far you let it go.

i had a bunch of clunking when i hit bumps and while turning, that noise was all gone after i changed my lca's

and all my vibrations went away after i changed a bad inner tie rod got 2 new front tires, balanced, and then got it aligned. nice and smooth now. i'd been running used tires and they sucked.

and you really need to use the same tires/brand/size in pairs on the front or the car will pull to one side or the other when getting on it. aint fwd fun?.....
 
ya, torque steer is great w/ mine, fr lt tire spins WAY more than rt. so i have 1 bad tire...

got axles from a differnet napa, prices vary. Got new lt for $100 and rmnf rt for $70 w/ $111 core charge. took forever to do the 1st one, to figure it out, & 2nd time was a breeze. & new trans fluid & filter $ rotated tires.

LCAs seem good, lt ball jt is way stiffer than rt, but it all seems good.

clunk when engaging gear and low speed turns is completely gone! Only very slight vibration on acceloration, its tolerable now. Finally time to get alignment!

Thanks guys for the input! & thanks billboost for the how to!
 


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