• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

L67 vs l32 shortblocks?

fisher580

fisher580

New member
Long story short had a piston decide it wanted a hole burnt threw it . . . Yay me.

my plan is to pick up a new shortblock, and swap all my stuff over to it with new gaskets obviously, but main reason for wanting a short block is I am going with new cam and valve train in new motor. Now my question is if I can benefit at all from a l32 bottom end vs another l67 bottom end.

Other er option would be a complete l32 and cam that so I would have a gen 5 blower, but more work tearing it down.

going in an 01 gtp
 


the blowers better for sure. and the heads are a tiny bit better on the l32, other then that its the same thing, get what ever's cheaper.
 
Thanks,

Well after checking more around me found out that a l32 shortblock is $175, so I figure I'll offer 125 and go from there. We're the rods changed throughout the years? Thought I heard some mention that before.

And heads I'll open up a bit with a Dremel and polish them up good.

on a side note though, the good cylinders still had 140-150 compression with 240k miles
 
iirc the l67 l36 engines have stronger rods. is that a running short block? pretty cheap. they ask up to grand for a whole l32 here easy
 
Yea that's pretty cheap around here a l32/67 go for 1200-1500 with over 100k on them that's local though. But I can get a low mileage l26 shipped here for less then half of that.

Sent from my KYOCERA-C6745 using Tapatalk
 
A complete l32 with blower thief getting 900 - 1500, this is just the lower end

i need to call to arrow to see what is all taken off it.

Anybody have anything against the XP hot cam? It seems a little more aggressive than intense stage 1 or the vs. but still good with out machining the heads
 


Nothing wrong with the XP except I think that requires the double roller chain setup which seems to be a hit or miss when it comes to quality
 
What would be best choice then staying away from the double roller? I care about power but the wife wants it to 'sound like a beast'

the NIC cam caught my attention but people seem to complain about lack of power with them
 
Can anyone tell me how to tell what engine type I have. I have 2 99 gtp and a 98 gtp

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
 


L67 series II 3800 v6 with a gen III supercharger. I know that some 04 and all 05+ have better connecting rods in the N/A motors then the 97-03 n/a motors but not sureabout sc motors
 
Would and 04 vin 1 transmission work on a vin 1 99? The 99 is a gtp and the 04 is a gt or gp

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
 


jamesk said:
What about an 04 gt 6th vin digit is a 1

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

It's the 8th digit not 6th. 04+ would be a 2 or 4. Earlier cars were vin k or 1.
The only positive way for you to know whether it is an l67 or an l32 is to look at the connecting rods to see if they are the weaker 04+ powdered metal or the earlier more ductile cast rods.
04 is a transition year....if it's late 04 production date...its more likely to be a PM rod engine.
 
Travisgt2 said:
L67 series II 3800 v6 with a gen III supercharger. I know that some 04 and all 05+ have better connecting rods in the N/A motors then the 97-03 n/a motors but not sureabout sc motors
Click to expand...


you can snap an L26 PM rod just by dropping it on the floor

pm rods are not better, they are cheaper, which to the beancounters means "better"

ever hear of "fractured cap technology? yeah, the PM rods are "cracked" apart at the parting line...that is due to the grain structure/brittleness of the PM rods. cant do that to a cast rod, it would just bend. yes fractured caps do remove fretting as an issue, however unless the fracture was "perfect" and assembled properly after initial fracture and then installed in the engine. if not then they likely mashed part of the molecule to molecule interface at the fracture point....so now the rod doesnt clamp properly.

but hey a PM rods cost less to make, costs less to machine (PM rods are sometimes refered to as "near net weight forging") since the PM rod is "prettier" and more consistent from one to the next.

its all the luck of the draw, but newer is not always better.

as for the heads...not always 04+ are more likely to have a good mold number as they retired alot of molds that were heavily core shifted due to reworking the sand molds
valves are actually ****tier machining at the stem cap.

remember also that these are all machined on some of the same tooling that machined the old 70/80's 3.8 it was old even in 96, it was damn near broken by the time the 3800 production run was extended in 06 to go to 09

look at the indexing of the main bearing passages to the intersection of the cam bearing shell. earlier engines were far more consistent, the new ones....you might be lucky, or you might not but i wouldnt run thicker than 5w30, ever with the possibility that passage is only .090 wide past the bearing shell.

worn table indexer/locks are a *****

 
04 vin is a 4 and I was wrong, I have 2 98 gtp vin x and 1 99 gtp vin w...

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
 
it seems yer not starting or seeing the first digits, with a W body car, the 10th digit is always a W, g/h body will be g or h in the 10th spot, look two to the left, it will either be a K or a 1 for a 3800 powered car. i cant remember the vin for the 3100/3400v6.

both of those gtp's should have a 1 in the 8th spot
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top