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L67 mild mods

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I don't see any conflicting info and what have we told you that is different than what wbody store is telling you? :th_scratchhead: That is a list of things you need to run that size pulley not an either or list dude.
To run a 3.4 you should have at least
  1. Headers
  2. cold/hot air intake
  3. colder plugs
  4. tune
  5. colder tstat
 


Ok lets say you want a catless 3" downpipe, you don't want to get a weld in unit because unless you know how to weld you have to pay someone to weld it on, you dont want aluminized steel its more prone to rust especially in the northern states, so you want to get a stainless steel one, oh look its $189 for a 3" downpipe and your still stuck with the restrictive front exhaust manifold. RACING MANIFOLD HEADER/EXHAUST GRAND PRIX/GTP/BUICK REGAL/IMPALA/MONTE CARLO 3.8 | eBay That is why we said get headers bro......
 
Take your manifold off, run no exhaust and a long bolt instead of a pulley. You will be the boost master.or do what they are suggesting.either way
 
I know I can't be the only person who get sick of telling people time and time again what to do and they don't listen......this is turning to another I want load exhaust for my gp thread...........
You can either read this thread http://www.grandprixforums.net/safely-modding-your-3800-powered-car-17482.html and listen to what we are telling you or you can just do whatever you want, but don't come back crying because you messed up your car doing things the wrong way.


/End Thread
 


It says downpipe OR headers all i did was read it and assume they knew what they where talking about cause they sell these parts.We have a bender at work, i can weld, i wanted to take the stock flange open it up a little past 2.5 in and weld 2.5 to it and run it all the way out.No cat, no 02 sensor, no resonator, and a semi quiet good flowing muffler in the stock location.The headers on ebay are not 200 anymore they are 300 and 3 inch is a hell of a lot harder to work with. I would probably have to reduce it down or it would rub on speedbumps.I made a 3 inch single for a f body it looked like crap and sounded raspy.
 
i can understand your confusion. but take the advice these guys are giving. if your lucky, you can get away with just headers, intake, tune and colder plugs, but u need a way to check for knock retard so you know for sure
 
I am listening but most are just going by what they read just like me. I am on ebay everynight and never could find those headers probably how they have them listed as racing manifolds/ so thanks slick. I just figured with these moderate mods i could get by with my own exhaust seems like with minimal bends no cat or res it has to flow better than most? If i later add a cam or rockers i would then add the headers.Let me ask you guys this i always thought the cooler the engine ran the better i figured the 160 degree stat would keep me from KR a little more, they say you can use a 160 on a 1998 so why run a 180 ? Who do i have reflash the PCM some bad reviews on zzp and overkill so who?
 


jsnyder49090 said:
I am listening but most are just going by what they read just like me. -- Who do i have reflash the PCM some bad reviews on zzp and overkill so who?
Click to expand...


I bought my car with a 3.3 pully, a tune,104s, 180 stat, cat delete, and a cone filter(and a bad transmission). I had massive amounts of KR. I put headers on and it helped a LOT. Also added a full mandrel bent 2 1/2 inch exhaust. Still had decent KR so I added rockers. Now I only see slight KR on really hot days WOT under load(IE uphill). I know if I went to a 3.4 as I should have on it I would have 0 KR. I'm telling you what I am, because it is what I KNOW.

Also on the pCM, I have a ZZP and have never had an issue.
 
jsnyder49090 said:
I am listening but most are just going by what they read just like me. I am on ebay everynight and never could find those headers probably how they have them listed as racing manifolds/ so thanks slick. I just figured with these moderate mods i could get by with my own exhaust seems like with minimal bends no cat or res it has to flow better than most? If i later add a cam or rockers i would then add the headers.Let me ask you guys this i always thought the cooler the engine ran the better i figured the 160 degree stat would keep me from KR a little more, they say you can use a 160 on a 1998 so why run a 180 ? Who do i have reflash the PCM some bad reviews on zzp and overkill so who?
Click to expand...

160 is pointless. I would have never installed one in my car, but cartuning recommends it with their kit. Any t-stat below stock will not benefit you in anyway without telling the PCM it's there. I have run an Intense, ZZP, DHP and cartuning PCM. You are going to get bad reviews because not everyone will be happy. I've been satisfied with my ZZP one and a local guy here has been satisfied with Overkill. All the tunes are for the most part the same. Each is a generic tune so the added benefit of any will be limited. You won't actually show the biggest gain from t till you tailor the tune to your car.

Adding a cam or any valvetrain mods before headers is a rookie move. ;) Unless you plan on doing them at the same time.
 


thomas mcnulty said:
Zzp, overkill is arguing apple and android.
Click to expand...

I dont agree i have seen files from Intense, ZZP, and Overkill and Overkill by far does a lot more work in the file and makes some changes that greatly improve safety of the engines. I think the correct analogy is:

"Box tunes are the Free phone with a new contract, Overkill is the upgraded phone for $50 and Custom tuning is your Apple/Droid 4G LTE-LMNOP!"

jsnyder49090 said:
I am listening but most are just going by what they read just like me. ... i figured the 160 degree stat would keep me from KR a little more, they say you can use a 160 on a 1998 so why run a 180 ? Who do i have reflash the PCM some bad reviews on zzp and overkill so who?
Click to expand...

1) Most of us have done these mods before and have first hand experience. I for instance have tune a great number of these cars over the past 8 years and have seen a lot of vendor "box" pcm's and the results of their tunes. In addition to the tuning I tried 160's,180's,195's stats, Mafs with and without screens, external mafs that have been ported for flow, different air intake designs, and have experience with friends installing rockers, cams, ported and North star TB's, pulleys, and more. We are not here to bash you... well im sure there are some who are... but most of us arent. you asked the question we give answer... either take the advice or not. ask questions and learn from our mistakes and accomplishments.

2) 160* stats will not lower the temp much without adjusting the fan turn on/off temps in the pcm. when the engine is in the 160* range fueling settings change. a 180* is what most use and with proper fan settings the temp will be in the 176-199 temp range which will keep fuel settings more consistent.
3)Read above on PCM's if getting mail order i would go with Overkill. If you have someone close to you who can tune... deff go that way.

The talk about headers should not be brushed off either. I know you say you can weld and do the work on the cat back. the stock exhaust has been seen to not be a restriction until well over 300 hp. changing your system will not give much if any performance. the restrictions in the stock exhaust are: 1) exhaust manifolds 2) U-bend just after the cat 3) down pipe. By getting a set of headers you remove all three. and for the price of the Speed Daddy Headers you just cant beat them. i got mine for $180 shipped

all of this information is in that Safely Modding your 3800 thread.
 
But reading is for people that don't want to learn.

Right?

I'll just keep posting and ignorning until someone answers me.

That's been the mentality as of late, anyhow.
 
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