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L67 F bird

Decent still.

I had someone in a BMW M3 pass me on the freeway today with a set of DR in his back seat as I was going up towards Albany, MN. I figured he must be going up there today, just taking the long way.
 


Switched the car back to E10 87 gas. Went back to the 3.4" pulley. Car never has knock issues with 87 on the 14 degree tune and 8PSI.

Going to run it another month and throw the winter tires on. I need to look into re-studding the rear tires. 2 winters knocked them all out.

Or I'll park it in a snowbank and run my Rainier. If this winter turns out like last it won't snow and I can run the thing over the winter. Trying to get as many miles on this chassis and rust it out as bad as I can. It needs springs, shocks badly and the brakes groan since I got drilled rotors for the front and they are spider cracked real bad.

Engine is going in something light and older when I declare the car shot. I really want an Astre wagon to drop it in. I really like the pontiac version of the vega syle wise and the plan is to get the stock F body K member in the H body chassis. A 240-280z, FB RX7, 2dr jeep cherokee lowered, or 30's BOP sedan would be nice. Or a real clean dark blue or green 98-02 firebird. There is decent rust issues such as holes in the rear wheelwells and the rear seat pan/lower control arm hookup points are starting to get hit real hard. I guess thats what happens when you buy a car off the street in south St. Paul.

Its really nice having a 12 second beater though. I don't care if it gets door dented so I park in small spots on campus (cant get door dings anyways, all plastic). Theres also enough people that can't drive that theres always the possibility of getting hit especially around campus. I have the problem with my cutlass that I don't want to let it sit in the parkinglot since I'm afraid some drunk freshman will do something to it. So I havn't drove it seriously since last summer.

Part of me wanted to test the waters and throw it on CL for something stupid like 5 grand since I kinda achieved my goal with it but I have too much attachment to the drivetrain, it does everything I need it to, and wouldn't feel good about letting someone end up with a car that has so many quirks.
 
So the car got the snows on it. Drove through one icey morning and decided its too much of a pita to drive unless I know it wont be crappy. Its been so warm this fall/winter it hasn't just snowed. Gets icey blend and the car sucks in that. So ive been driving my rainier instead. Hopefully go back to it when it gets cold enough and stops getting slushy. Car rolled over to 167K miles so ive put basically 30K on it since I bought it. Not bad overall for a 12 second beater!

In other news, I bought a grand prix.

 


Updates!

I did drag weekend this last weekend, three states, three tracks, in three days. 750 mile round trip with about 20 cars total. Finally tuned the combo in and basically maxed it out. There's nothing left! 60lb injectors at 97%, blower with 2.6" pulley, no more pickup on timing from 19 to 20.

Ran 12.89 at 103 the first night in great lakes at union grove Wisconsin 2.8" pulley and 18 degrees
Ran a 12.85 at 103 second morning at byron ill with 2.6" and 18 degrees
Ran a 12.72 at 106 third morning at tristate in IA with a 2.6" and 19 degrees
Ran a 12.62 at 107 third afternoon with a 2.6" and 20 degrees (I had 19 degrees in there for about 4 passes between the 12.72 and 12.62 passes and had poor 60ft since the track prep went away, was running 12.70-72 at 1.75+ 60fts. Last run I was first on track after prep and rolled into it instead of hard stomping like i usually did. I didn't get any mph between 19 and 20 degrees so 19 is where it likes to be. Slowed a bit on my 60 compared to my best but it hooked.

Thats stock 175k mile everything from the flywheel back with the exception of an aluminum driveshaft, home made LCA relocation brackets, 2 V8 car rear swaybars in paralell and kyb gas adjust shocks on hoosier 275/50 drag radials i bought used 5 years ago and have around 30-40 passes on. 1.66 60ft was my best.

Might get some weight reduction done like skinnies up front. We will see. I really want my 12.50 goal.



 


Theres no room for an intercooler as is. I could cut that boss off the top of the blower and build some 1/2 spacers between the chassis and K member. Maybe get about a 1" plate in between there. But thats about it.

 
I ran window washer fluid (methanol) for about 2 years when i first ran 91 octane and a 3.4" pulley. It ate the teflon off my rotors. I called BS that the fluid did that and left the rotors in a half a gallon of -40 fluid over night and the next morning the teflon had entirely fallen off. I know the coating doesn't do that much but I put a new set of rotors in with good teflon so i dont think im going to go back to that. I am also not having any issues with KR espeically on e85. I just need more airflow but theres nothing left.

Can't go to a n* tb either, I don't have 4" between my cowl and valvecover for the MAF. Also the TB is basically sandwiched between the fuel rail and AC heater box. Hrmph.

I do have a little left on the injectors since I could put a boost ref FPR. I have a vette filter regulator on the frame so I actually only have 35 lbs of fuel pressure (basically) since I have 10 psi and that vette reg basically makes 45. Crank the PSI up to 55 or so and boost reference it, should give me more room.

Really nothing left and only if I did an intercooler for dense air but I doubt that will pick me up much. This car has never made much boost after my cam, heads and headers build. I only get 12PSI on the 2.6 pulley.
 


Fivefingerdeathpunch said:
I'd go meth injecton before spending the cash on a intercooler.

Would give you injector room back too as it will be a source of fuel.
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Yup I agree with this, exactly what I would do too.I must say this thing would run low 11's to high 10's easy with a cheap used w body turbo kit retrofit.
 
My point was the rotor pack, try and fit the Gen V rotors in that case... they're epoxy coated rather than the Teflon, much more resistant to methanol IIRC, and a little bit more efficiency too.
 
WarStryker13 said:
My point was the rotor pack, try and fit the Gen V rotors in that case... they're epoxy coated rather than the Teflon, much more resistant to methanol IIRC, and a little bit more efficiency too.
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I wouldn't give any cares to rotor coating myself, spraying meth in the supercharger will cool it and tighten up the rotor gap at the same time whether theres any coating on the rotors or not.
 
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