• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

L/F wheel bearing GP 2008



On a side note, this morning notice there was transmission oil on my driveway, had a look under and it was around the axel shaft. When I replaced it I had an oil pan underneath it but when I pulled it out no oil came out (interesting). Now I am wondering that I didn't push the axel far enough in. I sprayed some disk cleaner and cleaned the residue off as I want to see if it still leaks. Should I have gently tapped the axel in? Transmission level is good.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
 
Well I reinserted it in and I know it's in there, here is the end result. Still think it's going to leak. What I can say is that the OEM part is alot bigger in regards the cylinder. I mean wider hence it will touch the back of the tranny. If it still leaks I guess I will bring it in. Any thoughts?
82ec6473231d3d4f0fb037a5cd614c25.jpg
e1fd6dd2e268dcca74ce68c7f159c0d5.jpg


Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
 
the shaft usual gives a gently click when that snap ring falls into place, which is the reason they're a little harder to pull out. I'd imagine it's seated all the way by looking at it; you might go buy a new axle shaft seal, they're like $10. National usually makes them, I think the online parts stores call them "oil seals." The Left side one is different than the right side seal. I seated my seal with a modified 2x4, but they make a fancy "seal seater" to do the job, other people have used random plumbing parts to hammer them into place.
 


If you are reinstalling axle slide it in then allow boot to expand and use the inner plunge joint kind of like a slide hammer, and keep quickly pushing the inner joint in. It will make some noise but thats ok. It should eventually pop in. Now i have had to use a small triangular file and position it on end of splines at a out 30 degree angle and open up/break the edge break of the splines. But eventually it should pop in.
 
I know when I inserted it the first time it definitely snapped it. I bought a new seal just today going to try to replace the peace tomorrow but I can tell you that I'm going to have a hard time removing the axel. It seems the aftermarket inner CV joint is smaller so its hard to get leverage on it with a crowbar.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
 
I used a plain jane normal hammer to pop it out. Remember to turn it some if it doesn't pop out right away. The seal is always the challenge anyway. I would say just a flat blade screw driver and a hammer; Destroy one side inward.
 


Well I changed the seal but didnt really have a seal installer so I used a extension socket and hammered around the edges. However after few days its leaking abit and I may damaged the outer ring. Will pickup another seal they are around $5 here, however anybody have a DIY tool that might work to install this seal without damaging it?
 
I used a normal 2x4 about 8 inches long and chipped out about an inch of wood on one end so it wouldn't crush the center, worked great of me. I still have it sittin on my shelf, but I'm not home right now to get you a picture.
 
If you don't mind that will be much appreciated, I assume i damaged the seal when I was putting it in hence why it's leaking abit.
 
attachment.php

This is a highly advanced seal seater, it's patents pending...obviously.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20170421_222207464..52.jpg
    IMG_20170421_222207464..52.jpg
    33.5 KB · Views: 51


You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top