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KR on stock pully with Flow mods

could he be getting what intense claims as "false Knock" just making a suggestion not sure how it works but they have a kit that seems to be some type of shield that goes around the knock sensor and trans? maybe it could be a possibility lol check out the kit out there website and let me hear what you guys think I've always wanted to know more about it. left a link below.
INTENSE Racing: Dynamat False Knock Elimination Kit
 


04lss said:
I am not, I'm mainly going with ZZP because of the store credit I have. Should be able to get the PCM for about 25 bucks.
I checked the o2 sensor and it stayed at 1 volt (probably torque rounding) at WOT.
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you need to scan for MV iirc for the o2 to read real numbers, not 100% sure t app can do that.

the volts one you got, as you idle or drive around it should bounce up and down pretty fast.
 
SgtMarshal said:
1 volt is really rich, that might cause some kr
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It is running -5% LTFT I an never remember if that means its inclined to run rich or lean.



I went to install the new pulley tonight. Its raining and about 40* But i was like screw it. Turns out i dont have a 15/16" socket or wrench. I guess ill finish up on friday.
 
yeah thats a 1/2 drive socket and ratchet on the drive bolt. a ratchet is far faster then a open/box wrench. ive used a breaker bar to get it going too. that first crack is kinda scary sounding but after that it comes off pretty easy.
 


Scottydoggs said:
yeah thats a 1/2 drive socket and ratchet on the drive bolt. a ratchet is far faster then a open/box wrench. ive used a breaker bar to get it going too. that first crack is kinda scary sounding but after that it comes off pretty easy.
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Ill toss the socket I buy in when i return it. my contribution.
 
So I got the new pulley on and as expected 6* of KR on a 3.5. Its also running an LTFT of -10% at idle. That means that the car is running really rich right?

I also have noticed that i hear a hissing sound when i turn off the engine coming from somewhere near the manifold for a few seconds. Almost sounds like pressure escaping.

What could be causing the car to run so rich, that i can realistically troubleshoot?
 
could be your O2 sensor, more than likely it's your tune. zzp also has a knack for richening up the tune. might be a good idea to pick up an HP Tuner and cut some fuel yourself.
 
he has no tune. might be the pcm learning the new pulley to some degree. either way its time for that tune.

i should just do a free rental on my dhp for ya lol i could remote tune ya. hardest part is getting it set up on a laptop, its a battle for some ppl.
 
Scottydoggs said:
he has no tune. might be the pcm learning the new pulley to some degree. either way its time for that tune.

i should just do a free rental on my dhp for ya lol i could remote tune ya. hardest part is getting it set up on a laptop, its a battle for some ppl.
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DHP is still a thing? im more than willing to buy an AVT interface. Is there somewhere to get the software so i can fiddle? worse case i can set up windows xp on a vm.
 


avt is done for, I would take scott up on his offer and rent the dhp. really only a couple maf adjustments will take care of that richness, maybe several adjustments.

edit: you can get dhp to work on a windows 10 machine, just requires one or two extra steps. I have it on mine.
 
Welp,

I shouldn't have sold the one I had. Scotty id definitely be interested in doing that when i get paid.
 
For some reason i recall reading that the shorter dogbones and polly mounts can cause false knock. Am I crazy, or is that a thing?
 
I have short dogbones and lower poly mounts whenever people are in my car they ask if my brakes are bad since whenever im coming to a stop the engine vibrates the whole car and it feels like extremely warped brakes haha I always explain to them that im kinda an idiot and mod my car to the point where its uncomfortable for the average person lol and I don't get any knock on my setup and I believe im on either 16 or 18 degrees of timing at WOT ill have to see if the summer heat changes that but it was 70 out yesterday and still nothing
 


tzerilli said:
I have short dogbones and lower poly mounts whenever people are in my car they ask if my brakes are bad since whenever im coming to a stop the engine vibrates the whole car and it feels like extremely warped brakes haha I always explain to them that im kinda an idiot and mod my car to the point where its uncomfortable for the average person lol and I don't get any knock on my setup and I believe im on either 16 or 18 degrees of timing at WOT ill have to see if the summer heat changes that but it was 70 out yesterday and still nothing
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I think im going to remove the shorter dog bones. Ill keep the polly mounts. I also think im going to reinstall the stock airbox, im not a fan of the sucking noise at idle from the open cone. I have a K&N drop in, and i can open up the front of it if needed.
 
False knock rarely happens. Fill up with race fuel if you want to see if it's real or false.

You need a wideband to see if you're running rich or not. The narrowband tells you absolutely nothing at wot.

You basically have no mods that make a difference as far as kr is concerned. I'm surprised you dont have more than you do.
 
GTPpower said:
False knock rarely happens. Fill up with race fuel if you want to see if it's real or false.

You need a wideband to see if you're running rich or not. The narrowband tells you absolutely nothing at wot.

You basically have no mods that make a difference as far as kr is concerned. I'm surprised you dont have more than you do.
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The downpipe doesnt help KR? Isnt the ubend in the stock DP one of the biggest causes of KR on a stock car?
 
Very little. Most think there is a gain because they are replacing a half-clogged cat.

The cause of kr is heat from the blower. Cooling the air charge is the only thing that makes any sort of significant difference.
 
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