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KR at cruising speeds

J

Josiahsgtp

New member
Any input on this would be appreciated. My gtp will often see 3-5* kr at crusing (20% throttle). I then tried wot and still saw 3-5*kr. The weird thing is it only seems to happen after I drive for awhile (30min or more.) anything before that and there's none to 1* kr even at wot. Please help, thanks
 


Probably something in the tune or the pulley choice you made with no exhaust mods.

The catback is the last thing you need to worry about. Needs headers, a PLOG/DP, or a very minimum a U-Bend delete.

But to me, it sounds like actual knock. To me, I'd get more flow mods.
 
he's still on stock 3.8" (mps) pulley. never had an issue until recently. i'm the one that has been tuning it for him. his spark timing at cruising is mainly stock. he still has the u-bend on there. Wizair intake. he doenst recall the plug type. he just recently started getting this. his tune has mainly been unchanged for nearly year now minus at WOT.

edit-one idea for now would be lower the timing where he's getting KR or richen the hz range where its occurring until he gets more exhaust mods.
 
^its occurring while out of boost. i never had KR when cruising around out of boost (except going uphill with converter locked but that was before tuning was involved) and i had my timing table rather aggressively. heatsoak would make some sense but i think it also may be type of plug related. i believe he said he gapped whatever the plugs were at 0.055
 
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fst said:
he's still on stock 3.8" (mps) pulley. never had an issue until recently. i'm the one that has been tuning it for him. his spark timing at cruising is mainly stock. he still has the u-bend on there. Wizair intake. he doenst recall the plug type. he just recently started getting this. his tune has mainly been unchanged for nearly year now minus at WOT.

edit-one idea for now would be lower the timing where he's getting KR or richen the hz range where its occurring until he gets more exhaust mods.
Click to expand...

If you are still tuning, and its definitely only happing when heatsoaked, check out the IAT temps and use the IAT/spark table to pull a couple degrees at those temps.
 
Yeah I had the trans rebuilt about 18k miles ago. I just did a pull now wot 20-70 trans temp at 125* motor at normal temp and only saw .69kr burst at the shift.
 
^need to get it up to the point when the t-stat opens up and do another pull when available. i think a part of the heatsoak may be depending on what brand and heat range plugs he's using, ie iridium/platinum and not copper.
 


i doubt you wanna put 104's in a car that's stock. i'd start with a DP then go from there.
 
I always laugh at people think that cold plugs never work good.

You always tend to want the hottest spark possible, but from personal experience, I never noticed a damn difference either running 103's or 606's.

Hence why my stock or bolt-ons cars got 104's and my modded ones got 103's. Always gapped at .050" for lazy reasons.
 


I thought to properly select a plug you want to "read" the plug. Something about the threads, if the plugs too hot you will see a difference in the darkening of the threads from front of plug to back. Dunno, I tried to "read" mine this way...I found out I'm illiterate. Don't see any difference.
 
The method you're talking about works with old school carb'd cars.
You read the plugs by looking at the porcelain around the electrode. It tells the overall health of the engine, more than just fueling.
 
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