Why rear dorman bar its smaller than stock? Should have went with a GMPP
Hadn't actually used the parts I had bought until recently. Right after buying them we found a buyer for our house (without having a new home lined up) and packed and moved an entire house and 1000sqft shed packed with tools and parts. Found a foreclosed home a couple of months in but was way too rough to live in and had mold issues. By the time it got relatively liveable it was April/May when my family joined me there. Still doing work to it so I've been swamped with things I need to do.
I just started working on my suspension and steering a few weeks ago. Been having to split my time between overtime at work, helping around the house, my daughter, home improvements, christmas lights, etc
I agree that the rear sway bar was more thin but the old one I discovered was bent tubing where the new one was noticeably heavier and appears to be solid bar stock that's cold rolled/stamped on the ends
My front sway bar was much worse than I had anticipated. Now by the time I've gotten to working on my car the linkage on the right side was broken in two and the linkage on the left side snapped rather than being able to loosen the bolt on it. When I removed the left bracket/rubber bushing the left side of the sway bar came right out. It had a jagged break and was full of oil/grease/dirt/rust
The front left CV axle had also started shaking violently in the last year since buying the parts so I bought new CV axles and output shaft seals. The left CV axle came apart as I was removing it. The (brass?) rings inside of the joint closest to the transmission were very worn as well as the studs that they rode on.
I've finished with the back suspension and hubs. Had a heck of a time getting the old hubs off. I ended up having to use the hub bolts and some shims of bar stock to back the bolts up to the flange that the lug bolts go through and jack the hubs off the aluminum knuckles.
The front hubs I wasn't able to get off so I had to remove the entire knuckle/hub on each side and work on them in the garage. I ended up taking the top post from a jack stand, putting it upside down on the floor, and slamming the center of the hub on the post of the jack stand (with the hub facing up) while holding onto the knuckle. I did this until I effectively broke the wheel hub and forced the center out, just leaving the steel casing behind which I was able to drive out with a hammer and punch. This worked for both sides however it took a good 15-30 minutes for each side. I would have put it in my A frame press but there wasn't a good place to set the knuckle so that I would be pressing the hubs out straight. I also was afraid of bending/cracking the knuckle
I've removed everything but the very end of the left cv axle, transmission seals, and ti rod ends. Then I have to install all of the new parts in the front
After that I have to do a brake job (I had previously replaced all pads and rotors with lifetime parts ~7 years ago so I got about $400 in parts for free) and have to replace the left rear caliper assembly because I broke the bracket bolt off in the bracket trying to remove it. It was rusted solid. The front right caliper was a previously replaced part due to broken off bleeder screw and it had recently stuck in so I had that replaced under warranty. I had a problem with one of the brake proportioning valves in the back a few years ago and had replaced both of them. The left one was leaking so that was a free replacement.
One thing I need to do in the future soon when I have the time (and get my garage cleaned so I can work on it inside!) is the lower engine mount is as soft as can be now and I believe that chunks of the rubber are missing. This I'm sure is due to the large amounts of oil, grease, dirt, gunk, small rocks, etc that had clogged the drain ports of the mount and the rubber was submerged in it 24/7 for years
Also a few months ago I replaced the exhaust system from the resonator and back with Walker OEM grade parts. The resonator had started leaking almost a year prior and got worse and worse until I couldn't stand to drive it anymore. By that point it was up to 105 decibels while driving highway speeds if my phone app shows anywhere right. That was almost $400 alone but well worth it. I can't describe the intense noise and do it justice
I'm also planning on replacing the thermostat and doing a coolant flush. My coolant got low and my thermostat failed (installed a fail-open one) so I was driving without heat since February.
Possible future upgrades are to replace the coolant hoses, water pump, serpentine idlers and tensioners, power steering pump, possibly power steering hoses. My a/c stopped working right before fall and I'm thinking that the compressor may be bad. I nay end up having to replace that too.
It may seem like a lot of work and money but I haven't done any major work to my car in the 7+ years and 150,xxx+ miles that I've owned it. And not having a car payment for almost 5 years now is priceless
I've considered seeking out a working engine and transmission (preferably lower miles) to have on hand if one or the other were to go bad.
Edit: Oh yeah, and the left CV axle was not only worn and broken on the inner piece, it was also bent and you could notice it easily when jacked up and in drive idling. My car had gotten to where if you were going highway speeds or better and taking a right turn it felt like the car was going to implode. Sometimes just got 5mph in a lot and turning you could hear clunking loudly
My wife is 14 weeks pregnant with out second and until this week she had been literally nauseated 24/7 and by anything and everything so I have been the one doing dishes and laundry, having to help with our daughter as much as possible etc. She's just now starting to show signs that she might be getting better. That's the reason for the month-and-a-half project. I'm getting really sick (and all but lost hope of having it on the road again) seeing it sit in the driveway on jack stands. And now it's starting to get cold. I had a few hours to work on it Saturday night and had to wear thermal underwear, army surplus thermal undershirt, and a thick carhartt coat to be able to stand being out there
I may only be 30 but I am SO DONE working out in the cold. I miss my pole barn
