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Just need a few quick Tune-Up questions answered.

comatoast

comatoast

New member
Before I do any more modding , I need to figure out an annoying little issue.. From a stop, there seems to be a big lack of power, as I cant even break the tires loose, as it feels like its bogging.. Then when not going any certain speed, I give it 1/2-3/4 throttle and it downshift, it will accel real slow, then kind of "open up" .. Like its bogging, then opens up and moves much quicker, then bogs again for a second then starts pulling hard again.. I hope that made sense.. So Im gonna try some cleaning of the system and see if that helps

So

First thing is a new fuel filter: Will anyone do OK? Im against anything from FRAM so any suggestions from anything from , NAPA, Advance, Orielly AZ etc?

Then I would like to dump some seafoam into the brake booster line.. Ive never done this before, but am sure there is a certain way to do it.

Then after that was done and I go thru a tank of gas, I was going to check the Fuel Pressure at the rail.. So what psi should it be, with Key on, car off... And car running


Also any other ideas ,, or if you need a better explanation to my issue, please just let me know , Thanks

Matt
 


Oh and also, I need a new air filter , and I was going to grab a 9" K&N or Spectre, but I need to remove the part of my airbox the PCM is sitting on... Now If I remove that part of the box, will the PCM have a tray or any place to sit?
 
No...fuel filter is whatever.

Don't get sucked into the "high-flow" fuel filter business. I can't remember if your car has the in tank filter or not either...

Google the seafoam stuff...do it before you do the tune-up...1/3 in the gas tank, 1/3 in the oil, the remainder in the brake booster...and you'll have to have someone rev the car so it doesn't die from the massive vac leak.

Pretty sure the psi @ the rail needs to hold at least 44~...and not bleed off. If it does you've got a pump issue.

I'd clean your Throttle body for one...that's a huge issue with the drive by wire cars. Then...plugs/wires/clean the coils/ICM...then I'd get rid of the cat...or replace it with a high flow one...or just buy a 3" bolt-in downpipe from ZZP if it hasn't been addressed yet...they can clog. It's common. Another thing I would do is check for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner while the car is running...do LIM gaskets...etc...if it has never been done...and for the cone...yes...rip out the box and just leave the PCM there...it won't go anywhere...and bolt the 9" cone to your MAF. Done and done.

Anything else?
 
Sorry, Car is a 06 GT

Sounds good on the filter

I just planned on pulling the booster line of, "semi" closing the line with my thumb and using a pour cup to pour it in the line.. Ill google it in a second put Im guessing once you pour all the seafoam in there, you just let it run for a few more seconds then turn off the car, put the line back on and let it sit for 10 minutes or so?

Ill check on the rail pressure as well.. I thought it was 44 also, while running

I have 605s ready to go in, but will need some good wires. I have ( on my 2000 ssei ) just bought the blue NAPA belden lifetime wires.. Nothing fancy, and look thinner than stock but have heard they are pretty descent.. ANy other suggestions? I would like a black wire if possible, just for future cosmetic reasons


I cleaned the TB last November iI believe, but will do it again

LIM gaskets.. Its an 06, so I believe they dont have the crap gaskets, that the earlier models do.. But it is a possibility . If it came to that point, I would probably just add new 1.8 rockers and 90# springs as well

I WOULD cut/gut the cat, but dont want to throw a code.. I ordered a Overkill PCM a few days ago, with the rear o2 delete, because I 'planned' on doing headers, but not sure atm..
 


your on the right track, plugs wires, air filter, oil change, coolant flush, tranny service.( pan drop and filter change,) do not flush it.

clean the maf, and TB.
 
I'd recommend PRJ or MSD plug wires...

MSD wires are the best bang for your buck upgraded wire out there..especially nice with the moldable boot.
 
Scottydoggs said:
your on the right track, plugs wires, air filter, oil change, coolant flush, tranny service.( pan drop and filter change,) do not flush it.

clean the maf, and TB.
Click to expand...


Ill do the MAF and TB cleaning again, but Im really looking at why its bogging under acceleration, Lets say froma stop, I get on it wot, it will not spin the tires, it will pull hard, then bog like there is a load, then open up again and pull hard.. all with in a single 2nd or 3rd gear pull..
 
coolant flush was done, now running universal that was done at a valvoline IOC

Trans pan was dropped with new filter, dex VI and a TG shift kit
 
what miles you got there? it could just need a tune up bad if its never had one. being a 06 its possible its never been done.
 


I'd do plugs/wires/ clean everything that needs addressed and seafoam it.

New fluids as well...oil wise...

See where that gets you.
 
Scottydoggs said:
what miles you got there? it could just need a tune up bad if its never had one. being a 06 its possible its never been done.
Click to expand...


149K miles.. No codes, runs and idles almost perfect other than the bogging issue.. I was thinking about headers, but am not 100% yet, and feel the DP would just be a waste. According to my TorquePro app, there are no misfires, codes, or anything wrong.. Not the best, but a better guess than nothing lol
 
blueguy said:
I'd do plugs/wires/ clean everything that needs addressed and seafoam it.

New fluids as well...oil wise...

See where that gets you.
Click to expand...


How bad is it to cut the cat out? I dont know if thats the problem, but it does look like its tucked in there a little bit, making it a pita to cut out and straight pipe.. I guess Im not worried about the code, as I will hopefully have my pcm in about a week.. Nothing goofy will happen if I cut the cat, just the annoyance of the CEL code popping up, correct?
 
It'd be easier to just take it somewhere and have it done...

granted there is a mom & pop shop that doesn't care and will do it for cash money.

And yeah...you'll just have to live with the CEL.
 
2 more quick questions for ya.*
If I have to have a case learn done, do I have to go to the dealer? I do not have an aeeoforce, and don't know what other scan tool can be used other than a tech 2.** In my old SSei, I believe I did my own case learn by just keying on the car for 15 minutes, turn off for 30 seconds, then repeat 3-4 times..????* All our dealers charge $100 for a learn on the tech 2 which is crazy since it takes 2 minutes.*
Also.* Once the above step is complete I was debating dropping in a 3.6 pulley.* Seems the general consensus is to not do it as I will get more kr than its worth. My mods are stock exhaust , no cat or res. Shift kit, 180* stat, 605s, and a 9" cone on the end if the maf.* I know I can put it on and monitor it but won't even bother if I can't really enjoy it, or have to add race gas to it to get rid of the knock.
 


Those are pretty much the only 2 things that can do a case learn. The other being HP tuners.

You will not want to drop pulleys without more flow mods. Stock manifolds and downpipe won't cut it on a 3.6 on a GEN V blower.
 
I'm not sure how that way can do the "case learn" I am thinking about. Seems more like a security learn than anything.

The case learn that have in my head is the syncing of the crank and cam sensors.
 
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