• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Jerry's Tuner Notebook -> Wikified

z3r0 said:
Making a choice on your wedding day is a professional photographer of the big decisions you will make in preparing for the wedding.
Click to expand...

Hope crap, not only does this look like nothing more than huge block of text in very low quality English in a "cut and paste" response with no freaking paragraphs (dude learn grade school writing skills, will ya?), but what does this have to do with GP tuning???

Hey mods, any way to move or delete this message?

(PS: Most people won't know that I have been a pro photographer for decades, and have done several hundred weddings, and the drivel above sounds like the standard BS that these "togs" want you to read. And things like copyright? **ANY** photographer in the field that gives up their copyright to their work is one clueless SOB. They may give limited rights, such as right to print or crop, but the last thing you want is to give someone the right to take your hard work and photoshop mustaches and green faces to your photos and then tell people it is your work.)
 
Last edited:


That is a translation of what was on your page yesterday.

Your page had been edited.

He was concerned we had lost the wiki.

Thanks for being so kind about it.
 
matt5112 said:
That is a translation of what was on your page yesterday.

Your page had been edited.

He was concerned we had lost the wiki.

Thanks for being so kind about it.
Click to expand...

If he ever loses the wiki contents as well as his local copy and/or all backups, if he still wishes it, all he needs to do is email me, I will do all that I can to get him another copy. :)

1black.gtp (at) syner-g.org is the place to ask. ;)
 
when doing step 6 of bin prep stage 2 do i need reconnect the maf when i start logging or finish the rest of the step and then replug the maf
 
It is a good idea that you read through the whole thing a few times before proceeding. It should be clear in your mind what you are doing and what the goals are.

The MAF needs to be DISCONNECTED during the entire VE tuning process, which is in the next step, and therefore, stays disconnected for that entire process.

This is clearly stated. It also clearly tells you in the VE tuning section to not forget to plug it in after ending the process.
 


well im still working on doing the stage 2 bin prep part 6 when start logging it doesnt say whether plug the maf back in or keep it out. And im assuming at some point you plugged the maf back in cause when get the next tune it says to unplugg the maf again. So im not sure what to do because it doesnt specify
 
i'm not in the ve section i'm still doing
[FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica][FONT=Trebuchet MS,Arial,Helvetica]BIN PREPARATION STAGE II[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]4- OK, we've done our fuel trim reset cycle and the fuel trims have settled down. We can tell when it is because the STFT and LTFTs are close (but they are never exactly the same, unless when on a proper tune both at locked in at 0 anytime while in PE mode) or the values that were in the STFT gauge are now on the LTFT side and values in the STFT gauge are greatly reduced.

5- ONLY NOW IS IT TIME TO START LOGGING. I scan using the following parameters as a minimum: gear, IAT, IPW, KR, LTFT, STFT, MAF Hz, Map kPa, MPH, O2, RPM, Spark, Current Gear, Fuel Cell and TP%. New edit for 2011: Again, during this cycle, it is not important how fast you go, but what is very important is that you try to gather scan data everywhere from idle all the way up to 100-110 MAP(kPa) readings in both 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears at speeds between 0 and 120kph (around 75mph) or. Again... avoid WOT, there is no PE mode to add fuel for when you are in boost, thats NOT good. Save the WOT runs for later.

6- New edit for 2011: Here is the secret to getting a good scan... you need a slow progressions from low Map kPa values up to 110 Map kPa or so in all gears from 1st to 4th, however, don't go nuts if you cannot hit boost in 1st gear. This is done by very slowly rolling into the throttle. The slower and more gradual climb in Map kPa, the better. The reason you want to go a LITTLE into boost is that you see what the LTFTs and STFTs are locking in at once you are in boost. If you have a boost gauge, it should be starting from whatever position a slow cruise is at for you and swing SLOWLY upwards into just about 2-4 PSI of boost.

7- If you haven't seen any major KR up to this point, do the same up to 50% TP... and again the same thing to somewhere around 75% TP. Remember, this is not about WOT, this is about engine load everywhere from idle up to where you start to get into boost. The WOT part of the tune gets addressed later. ANYTIME there is more than 3 degrees of KR, back off!! I have setup my PT so that the text in the KR field is a larger font and that all KR from 0.5 to 1.5 degrees goes yellow and from 1.51 degrees to 20, it goes red. It's easy to see out of the corner of your eye as I place the gauge in the center of my screen.

8- Save the scan using a logical name. I like to use the date and run number format (2005-09-12-R1, 2005-09-12-R2, etc...)

Between steps 5 and 6 do you reconnect the maf or do u leave unplugged while your logging?
[/FONT]
 
Yeah basically during the whole VE table tuning process. You ALWAYS have your MAF disconnected. When scanning, flashing, etc.

If you connect your MAF back on, the PCM will not use the VE table and the whole point of the process is lost.

This is the only time you want to have the MAF unplugged during the tuning process. After that, you never disconnect it again.

BTW, I would skip the VE tunning.
 
DoubleBlown said:
i'm not in the ve section i'm still doingBetween steps 5 and 6 do you reconnect the maf or do u leave unplugged while your logging?
[/FONT]
Click to expand...

LOL... dude, no need to quote the site, I am the one that WROTE IT, and well know what is in it.

Let me repeat for the 3rd time, maybe in a way that is easier for you to understand... what are you doing blindly following something that you have not read form START TO FINISH? Read the entire procedure, all the steps, all the pages, not just one small section called Bin Prep part deux before starting!

To agian answer you quesiton... leave it unplugged until after the VE tune is done. In case you also miss it... don't forget to replace the PE and timing tables back either. One would think that obvious too... but with some poeple, you just don't know.

BTW, the value of a VE tune is very car/year dependant. For example, on a 2000 GTP it is makes no real difference as long as the MAF is good, but on a 1997 Bonnie it makes the entire tune smoother and more stable. On my 1999 GTP, it raised my MPG by 2-3 or more. The car ran smoother everywhere, the car was stronger, the tune was more stable over a wider temperature range, meaning, I had less changes in my fuel trims over a wider temperature range.

Even if your car is one of those that is totally unaffected, it is still good to do a VE tune for the simple reason that if your MAF fails, your car won't drop 5 mpg and won't be as rough idling thanks to a bad tune. The VE will be closer to optimized and the car will run better until you address that issue.

Also, for the cars where it does make a difference, the more mods, the greater the benefits a VE tune will make.
 


I just checked... to me on 3 different computers using 3 different browsers (Chrome, FireFox and IE), it all looks pretty much the same... no dead links and no attack sites. Not sure what firewall/AV you are using, but it could be interfering with your ability to browse the site. In the meantime, you can always reference the wiki site or the PDF that was made... links are in this thread, I believe. :)
 
I'm using FF4.0.1 (updating that as I type this) and am using MS Security Essentials. I just went back to the Wiki site. When I open the link, it goes direct to a Bear Grylls knife review. Clicking the Table of Contents and choosing Tune For Mileage, it brings up Page Is Unavailable Due To Site Maintenance. Please Visit [cut off from page margin]. CLICK HERE. The link preview in the bottom left of my screen shows the link to belong to ejexatul.co.cc. Looks like, from here, your site has been taken over. I'm still looking at the PDF and the original site to see what I can use. Thanks for the response.
 
Oh crap, I thought you were going to the web page link that I provided in the link above, I am sorry about that. Yeah, THIS SITE , that I recreated at my web host is the one that I was referring to... use this until the people with the WIKI site permissions get things straightened out. I did not set up the WIKI, hence have no way to do anything about it. Use this copy of the original website if you need to.

Sorry for the confusion! :)

Edit: I've PMed shor0814 about it... I do not know if he will ever see it, but at least in the meantime, use the web address I posted 2 times in this post above for your needs.
 
Last edited:


Jerry, I suggest you get your facts straight on VE tuning stuff. You have TONS of incorrect information on this subject.

1. You CANNOT use LTFT to tune VE. The LTFT data point is a function of an air mass calculation that modifies the VE table. An easy proof of this is to unplug the IAT and watch the LTFT number move 10+ or more percent.

2. About half of the non Wbody v6 fwd cars GM has use a RPM vs calculated air mass table instead of the VE table when in MAF failure mode.

3. Although a select few OSID's have "ve hybrid" mode enabled, it has been proven that even when this mode is enabled either by modification or in a OEM stock file, drastic modifications to the VE table were not able to produce changes to the tune running in MAF mode.

4. Claims of "increased mpg" is very baseless on the fact that you have never shown any proof to this. A car with a horrible tune, and a functional o2 sensor is going to produce the same 14.7 afr that a "well tuned" car and a functional o2 sensor will produce. Just because you have "tuned a car well" does not mean it is going to produce a better 14.7 afr than one that is not.

the tune was more stable over a wider temperature range, meaning, I had less changes in my fuel trims over a wider temperature range
Click to expand...

5. This is nonsence as well. Even in VE hybrid mode, on a vehicle that has a very obvious hybrid fueling system (like a 2006 trailblazer ss), the cruising fuel calculation does NOT use VE as a reference, only fuel trim cells that are enabled for VE hybriding are acceleration and deceleration. As mentioned before, these tables are not used on any FWD v6 with any fuel trim cell.
 
JerryH said:
Oh crap, I thought you were going to the web page link that I provided in the link above, I am sorry about that. Yeah, THIS SITE , that I recreated at my web host is the one that I was referring to... use this until the people with the WIKI site permissions get things straightened out. I did not set up the WIKI, hence have no way to do anything about it. Use this copy of the original website if you need to.

Sorry for the confusion! :)

Edit: I've PMed shor0814 about it... I do not know if he will ever see it, but at least in the meantime, use the web address I posted 2 times in this post above for your needs.
Click to expand...

Thanks, and I had already bookmarked that site a day or two ago.
 
Awesome. I just wanted to make sure that if there were people still using it, that there was an alternate site they could go to.

Sorry again for the confusion on my part. :)
 
No worries. I'm pretty much depending on folks who know how to tune to tell me what to do. See, I'm used to Army TMs and am having a HARD time understanding the guides that are out there. I'm trying...but...*sigh*.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top