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Is this terminal?

LePrix

LePrix

New member
So I made a horrifying discovery while I was polishing off a surface scratch today. Let's just say scratches are the least of my concerns, note that the rust is not that bright, its just my phone's camera flash:

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So is that it? Should I call the junkyard and tell them to make room or is there some reasonably affordable way to stop this bullcrap in its tracks?

Also how long does my car have before the rust makes its way into a visible area?
 


That is not that bad. Looks like it's surface rust. Easy fix at least for me.

Here is what I would do. I would sand away the rust back to visible metal. Then tape off the main body part and the fender lining.

Get a really nice primer that prevents rust. Do a couple coats. Then lightly sand that to get your final coat to stick.

I'm sure you can find a spray can of your cars color at the local auto store. Then also pick up a clear coat.

Wet sand your final clear coat before you put wax on. Then I would check all other fender wells for rust in that area. If no rust is present wax them up good before winter.
 
if that were my problem, i think i would sand it down and paint it up with some duplicolor primer and color match paint, you would never notice that a rookie painter did the work under the wheel well.

or you could sand it clean, prime it, and hit it with under coating or spray on bed liner, just tape it off in a straight line and have at it, do the whole wheel well while your at it maybe?
 
Spraying it with bedliner or undercoating would be the best bet, but might be more noticeable.

It took 10 years to get that rusty. Taking care of it now would give you 10 more years.
 


Nates94 said:
That is not that bad. Looks like it's surface rust. Easy fix at least for me.

Here is what I would do. I would sand away the rust back to visible metal. Then tape off the main body part and the fender lining.

Get a really nice primer that prevents rust. Do a couple coats. Then lightly sand that to get your final coat to stick.

I'm sure you can find a spray can of your cars color at the local auto store. Then also pick up a clear coat.

Wet sand your final clear coat before you put wax on. Then I would check all other fender wells for rust in that area. If no rust is present wax them up good before winter.
Click to expand...


Heres the thing, in the last pic I can feel the paint chipping off, and its getting pretty close, like danger close, to being visible so i'm afraid doing that would chip a huge piece off the visible paint.
 
theres supposed to be a gap by the door...

seriously thats nothing for rust, if your not comfratable with sanding painting, get some rust converter from menards, farm n barn etc. brush it on and get some touchup paint and have at err.

do not put bedliner on there that will hold moisture to the rust and make it worse down the road
 
redlinepontiac said:
theres supposed to be a gap by the door...

seriously thats nothing for rust, if your not comfratable with sanding painting, get some rust converter from menards, farm n barn etc. brush it on and get some touchup paint and have at err.

do not put bedliner on there that will hold moisture to the rust and make it worse down the road
Click to expand...

Are there transparent rust converters?
 


Alright guys, here is an update.

I went to 3 different body/rustproofing shops today and they all seemed to agree that since it is in a place where rocks and gravel will get to it anyway, it is best to rust convert and then touch up.

Now I went to Canadian Tire and I was about to buy the Rust Check rust convert and go but then I saw this can of Rust Check rust inhibitor. It was on sale so I bought it too for good measure.

What is the different between the inhibitor and converter? Doesn't the converter inhibit too?

Also where can I find a step by step guide to this, call me a rookie but I just don't want to royaly screw myself out of a quick fix.
 
A converter converters the rust into a more solid substance. I'm sure it probably has some inhibitor properties to it too.

An inhibitor is best used on metal that doesn't have rust. That way it can inhibit rust from forming in the first place.

I see no problem doubling up.
 
inhibitors are meant for new cars and or freshly restored paint work,
convertors turn the rust into a paintable surface taht can be topcoated
 
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