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Is my fuel line routing correct? Just top-swapped.



they look to be real tight, like being pulled on, loosen them up some.

the lines will only fit on the side they fit, both are different sizes. so if they clicked when pushed on and dont pull off or leak when the key is turned to run only, your all set.
 
Scottydoggs said:
they look to be real tight, like being pulled on, loosen them up some.

the lines will only fit on the side they fit, both are different sizes. so if they clicked when pushed on and dont pull off or leak when the key is turned to run only, your all set.
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Okay I will for sure do that. So the one that goes all the way to the front of the engine into the solenoid thing is correct as well? the one that doesn't go into the rails.
 
lol i think i rotated in in your album. you use edit and rotate.

ae439c5f-1561-4634-8c99-d7c2750f673c_zpsadbp1wge.jpg
 
Runicdionysus said:
Okay I will for sure do that. So the one that goes all the way to the front of the engine into the solenoid thing is correct as well? the one that doesn't go into the rails.
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post some more pics, not sure whats going on with all your vac lines there. did you run new fuel line and evap lines from the rear? and thats why they are coming out of the nice large wire loom?
 


Scottydoggs said:
post some more pics, not sure whats going on with all your vac lines there. did you run new fuel line and evap lines from the rear? and thats why they are coming out of the nice large wire loom?
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I'm pretty confident in the vacuum lines. and no the fuel line and evap are all the stock GT lines. I'm grabbing some more pictures for you now. For the vacuum lines I have the Biggest part of the tree going to the Brake booster, the bottom one to the bbv, then the solenoid to the fuel pressure regulator, tee-d to the part underneath the supercharger snout, and then going to the MAP sensor.
 
as long as your lines are doing like the diagram shows its all good. hard to tell whats going on with all the wires.

i see your evap solenoid is up front, one side goes to the back of the car, the other side to the tb large port on the side.

2010-04-04_183929_Untitled.jpg
 
With my top swap, I didn't use the bypass solenoid at all, just vented it to atmosphere. If you didn't get the wiring kit from zzp and run it to the pcm, it won't do anything anyways.
 
Also did my fuel lines just like you, and never had a problem. But I read about guys having issues with them coming off, if I were to do it again today, I'd do the Dorman kit with the L67 style fittings, or get some kind of safety wire (read: zipties) around the back of the line to the rail to ensure it can't physically come off.

Is the vac line that goes from the firewall to the top of the blower cut?
 


it sure is, its broken at the wall mounting clip.

op if your not seeing it, its the black hard line to the left of the bracket that holds the heater hoses up. that line goes to the top of the sc on the vac tree there where you have a open nipple. if its not hooked up, you vents wont blow air where you tell them to.

photo1_zps195346a2.jpg
 
Scottydoggs said:
it sure is, its broken at the wall mounting clip.

op if your not seeing it, its the black hard line to the left of the bracket that holds the heater hoses up. that line goes to the top of the sc on the vac tree there where you have a open nipple. if its not hooked up, you vents wont blow air where you tell them to.

photo1_zps195346a2.jpg
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Thanks for catching that guys, But i'm still not seeing it. Can you circle it on the picture in paint or something?
Thanks again.
 
see the line from the top of the sc, to the fire wall, your line is snapped off in the little mount on the fire wall. and theres nothing to the open nipple on the sc.

limjob8-1.jpg~original
 
Directly to the left of the silver bracket on your firewall apparently holding your heater hoses rundmcmascus, the first black plastic mount is where the line is broken. My phone doesn't have paint, or else I'd do like ford and circle the problem for ya. Or maybe it does, but I just don't know how, and I'm not taking an hour to figure it out, lol.
 


you can buy a few feet of vac line, its like a buck a foot. push the hard line into the new vac line, run and cut to fit to the sc top.
 
sounds better maf plugged in. let the car warm up so the idle will drop to 800 ish where it should be when warm.

once you got the pipe bolted up it should run a lot better.
 
99GT2dr In you post "With my top swap, I didn't use the bypass solenoid at all, just vented it to atmosphere. If you didn't get the wiring kit from zzp and run it to the pcm, it won't do anything anyways." Are you talking about the boost bypass solenoid? If you are could you expand on this a little more? I'm supercharging a n/a intrigue and I thought I read in another thread that if you open or "vent" it as you stated wouldn't that not allow boost to build?
Sorry if I'm hyjacking the OP's post, but theres a lot of good responses on here.
 
SuperchargedIntrigue said:
99GT2dr In you post "With my top swap, I didn't use the bypass solenoidat all, just vented it to atmosphere. If you didn't get the wiring kit from zzp and run it to the pcm, it won't do anything anyways." Are you talking about the boost bypass solenoid? If you are could you expand on this a little more? I'm supercharging a n/a intrigue and I thought I read in another thread that if you open or "vent" it as you stated wouldn't that not allow boost to build?
Sorry if I'm hyjacking the OP's post, but theres a lot of good responses on here.
Click to expand...

I'm actually wondering the same thing.
 
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