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Interpreting scan logs, any help please?

how does one set that crap up for the egr wires? im lost on pc crap lol

once i get my wide band hooked up i may or may not be more help lol
 


It depends on the type of wideband you have. There is a writeup on how to get the formula into uvscan. All you do is add a pid in a .csv in the uvscan folder, and enter the formula for it. For my AEM wideband the formula that works for me is: (2*N0/51)+9.8

I've searched and can't figure out how to get TM to recognize it though. Maybe he never fully implemented it in the latest version.
 
I couldn't use DHP because it wouldn't log my wideband. I have the analog inputs, and got it working, but it would freeze my wideband data after about 3 minutes. I talked to Mark at AVT, guy who sold me the scanner, and he confirmed that nothing is wrong with the scanner, it has to be DHP. Besides, the resolution sucks on DHP. Only get like 2 entries per second or something. UVscanner I get 5-6.
 


Question. I just had a thought about my approach to tuning. Right now I was keeping my PE enable TPS around 30%. Stock is 60% on my n/a tune. A 2005 GTP stock tune is around 48% and drops to 32% by max rpm. So, PE is basically commanding an A/F ratio which I am assuming is determined by the IFR table. So right now at 30% throttle my pcm switches from the MAF table and calculates how much fuel should be spent based upon the IFR and injector pulse width. At least I think that's whats happening. So if my IFR and pulse widths are good, I should see on my wideband exactly what is being commanded by the PE table. Right now I'm looking really good.

The problem, I am seeing knock right at the transition between MAF and PE. So as soon as it goes into PE it knocks. Sometimes up to 5-7 degrees. I'm thinking that there is too much variance between what the MAF is commanding, and what PE commands. I was at first just gonna lower my PE enable TPS to like 28 or something, but now I'm wondering if it would be smarter to tune the MAF as high up the TPS as I can, and then set PE. Basically zero out PE and purely tune via maf as high up the TPS as I can. I mean, stock PE TPS is like 48%, I should be able to get my MAF tune safe at least till that point, right? That way when I lower PE after my MAF is dialed in, there won't necesarily be a big jump in the fueling. Technically a good MAF tune should not even need PE, right? Seems setting it too low is just wasting fuel.

Sorry, I keep going back and forth, the more I learn it seems the more I don't know lol. When I plugged in my stock MAF table and started over, I had zero knock with maxed out fuel trims. Now that I have began tuning with my logs and Eddies TM, I am starting to see knock. I don't get that.

Right now I kinda envy you L67 guys. There are so many more variables it seems when tuning boost on the L36. It literally just hit me that the reason I can't up the max timing at WOT is probably because of the higher compression. I was running 14 degrees just fine, bumped it up to 17 and started knocking at WOT. I think that's the last place I wanna be knocking, eh? I was kinda pissed after hearing guys here claiming to run 20+. So I'm gonna keep it low and just think that I'm seeing more power through the power band because of the higher compression. Really need to get this tune dialed so I can get it on a dyno.
 
MAF and PE are two completely different things. The MAF table is always an "active" table, it never shuts off or is doing anything else other than reading the amount of air coming into the motor.

PE is performance enrichment. All that table does or is for, is to set a commanded air fuel ratio once the conditions are met. So be it 55 map KPA, 48% throttle percentage and a 2,000 rpm delay. Once say those are met the computer will go from a closed loop fuel command of 14.68 down to whatever you set the PE at, figure 11.5 AFR or whatever you set it at.

Again, all the MAF does is read air coming into the motor. If you set the PE to be at 11.5 AFR but on your wideband you only see 11.7, you would add a % to the maf table to increase fuel in the range needed. Adding in small amount of 1-2% will add fuel in the areas needed.

You never want to zero out PE, because then you'd never have fuel when you enter boost.
 
Wow, cool. So I didn't understand that the maf table was controlling the fueling in PE mode. Makes sense. That way I can look at a WOT run, and tweak here and there to get the commanded and actual a/f dialed in. Perfect.

So, to you, is it better to have PE kick in right at boost? I'm just trying to understand why I'm seeing KR right after PE kicks in.

Since I got ya on the horn, can you help me understand the tcc release/apply tables? The biggest spikes of KR i've seen is when I'm in 4th gear and roll into the throttle. I know that high load on the engine while in 4th with the tc locked will introduce knock. So what I want to do is get the TC to unlock sooner, before I hit boost ideally, right? For instance I was doing 46mph. I rolled into it and by the time I was at 48mph at 24% throttle I started to get a little knock. Kept rolling into it and at 50 mph at 33% throttle I seen 5 degrees KR. I let off because it wasn't unlocking and knock was increasing.

So I've lowered the tcc release 4th normal to 40mph from 12.5 to 37.5% and 56 mph at 43.75%. So now if I'm between 40-56 mph and throttle goes over 12.5% it should release and I shouldn't see KR, right?
 
my fuel trims started going lean when I was using eddies table modifier as well. make sure you don't turn on the heat or air conditioning when taking a scan for adjustments. one thing you could try is to disconnect the connector going to the evap purge solenoid and to disable all the evap codes. I would suggest loading a bin that precedes your kr from lean fuel and starting from that point.
 


I honestly never dealt with the TCC tables, I didn't really get much "knock" when I rolled out of 4th gear and into boost. Mostly because I usually let off the gas to coast for a second then got back on it a little to let it downshift, that normally unlocked the converter for me. The other half the time I always drove around in 3rd because I rarely got above 60 mph and hated having 4th gear shifting in and out, I just used 4th for freeway driving.


And if I remember right, I had PE start somewhere around 35-40% throttle. I thought it was kinda hard to dial the PE with the boost because I remember already seeing 1-2 psi but I was still only at 30-35% throttle. It wasnt a all the time thing though, could be from just leaving a stop light quick or whatever and as the rpms got there it barely made 1 psi.
 
I do mostly city driving too. I think though, because my 3.05 FDR that my tranny is jumping into 4th while cruising at the least desirable times. I guess I'll have to get some logs for shift points and tcc and see exactly what its doing. Maybe there is some way to make it more streetable by tweaking some shift points. Something I haven't messed with yet. I think changing the tcc unlock points will definitely help though. Its just getting a nice sync between the lock/unlock tables so it drives intelligently.
 
I started going over the dhp guide that Scotty sent me. I'm going through some recommended tranny settings and this is what it says:


Transmission/Gear Ratio: Edit these according to your tire size and gearing. Use this spreadsheet (DHP Tire Size Chart).
Now in the Trans section you have two ways to go. If you have a Performance Shift button, edit as stated here. If you don’t have a Performance shift button, but want Performance Shift, edit your Shift Point Normal section.
Transmission/Shift Pressure/Shift_Pressure_2nd_Performance: Start at FT/LBS STEP 0 (which is 1) and increase the value in a natural progression to FT/LBS STEP 23 (which is 96) and every step after 23 should be set to 96. DO NOT EXCEED 96 PSI.
Transmission/Shift Pressure/Shift_Pressure_3rd_Performance: Do the same for this table as the SHIFT PRESSURE 2nd PERFORMANCE table.
Transmission/Shift Pressure/Shift_Pressure_4th_Performance: Do the same for this table as the SHIFT PRESSURE 2nd PERFORMANCE table.
Transmission/Shift Switch/Shift_Switch_Type: If you have a Performance Shift button, change this to 1.
Transmission/Shift Switch/Discrete_Switch_Debounce_Time: Change this to 25.
Transmission/Shift Time/1st_to_2nd_Performance_Shift_Time: Set all to .01.
Transmission/Shift Time/2nd_to_3rd_Performance_Shift_Time: Set all to .01.
Transmission/Shift Time/3rd_to_4th_Performance_Shift_Time: Set all to .01.
Transmission/Torque Mgmt/Torque_Reduction 1st_to_2nd_Performance_Upshift: Step 4 to 32 change to 5.
Transmission/Torque Mgmt/Torque_Reduction 2nd_to_3rd_Performance_Upshift: Step 10 to 32 change to 5.
Transmission/Torque Mgmt/ Torque_Reduction 3rd_to_4th_Performance_Upshift: Step 8 to 14 change to 0 then step 16 thru 26 should follow a natural progression from 0 to 15.
Transmission/Torque Mgmt/Max_Turbine_Torque_TCC_Locked: Set all to 600.
Transmission/Torque Mgmt/Max_Turbine_Torque_TCC_Unlocked: Set all to 600.
Click to expand...

Has anyone used these values? Some seem so high compared to stock that I'm questioning them. Anyone used them?
 


Yeah. U can send it I'll compare. I remember Bill saying something about a spreadsheet or something to adjust for FDR. He'll have to confirm that because I don't remember what thread you guys were discussing it in.
 
The main thing I'm concerned about now is tcc tables. I've been trying to tune out the blips of kr I get when its locked. I'm happy enough with just the shift kit. I could up pressures too, that's why I was asking about the dhp guide suggestions. He has it up to 96 at at step 23, then 96 till the end. And the tcc torque at 600 which is a lot higher value than stock. That might be too much on a na tranny?
 
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