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Internal Trans Parts that Are Questionable

JJ91284

JJ91284

New member
In the picture, you can see the groove that my fingure catches when I run my finger over it. Is that fairly common, how should I proceed.





If you look inside the case, you can see a few areas where there are some ridges that were created or also sharp edges from the casting process. Should I just take some emory cloth and scotch brite and go over those areas to smooth it out. I would make sure to get all the metal debris cleaned out to prevent contamination.

On another note, in the manual it says to remove the final drive gear from the transaxle by lifting. Is there any reason why my 97 is giving me problems in trying to remove it. Or does it just need some postive reinforcement with a block of wood and a hammer.







Oh yeah one more thing, What is the perpose of the thermo element, and why does it say to remove it in the manual?
 


As far as the groove you have in the first pic, all I can say is that mine was not like that when I pulled it out. With regards to what needs to be done, Trannyman will have to comment on that.

On the ring gear, I dont know where they got the 'just lift it out' instructions from, but it wasnt happening with mine. I had to 'encourage' it to want to come out with a block of wood and a dead blow hammer.

By the way, what are you using to stand your case upwright like that?
 
I'm using currently my atv/motorcycle jack which surprisingly works pretty good at supporting the trans when its lying on it pan or with the belhousing lying on it. I'm going to try tonight flipping the trans over so that the belhousing is facing straight up and down and see how stable it is which is how I'm going to reinstall everything


Craftsman Motorcycle/ATV Jack - Model 34612 at Sears.com

 
The drum with the line or groove in it should be fine. That is the 2nd clutch drum and the reverse band rides on it. As long as it isnt a raised edge that is digging into the band you should be fine. I wasnt quite sure what you meant about the lines in the case but seldom do you need to do anything with the case so I probably wouldnt worry about that unless you can get a better pic of it. If you are referring to the lugs that are right above the ring gear then its not of concern. You and Scotty must both have been two rare cases that the internal ring gear didnt just fall out! Once you remove the snap ring you should literally be able to dump the case on its side and it will fall out, or very easily lift out with your hand. I have only ran into a few cases where the ring gear wouldnt lift right out and it was because metal from a bad diff was stuck between the ring gear and case and sort of hammered itself into the case surface and made it very rough, it should be a smooth machined finish. You may need to use a block of wood and hammer from the diff side to knock out the ring gear, just make sure the snap ring is removed which it looks like it is. As far as the thermal element they mention to remove it for cleaning purposes, it needs to be there so make sure you reinstall it!
 
How crucial is it to use that thermal element tool that they recommend in the ATSG manual for alignment. I'll have to read and post exactly what it says. That is one tool I didn't find on ebay.
 
Unless you bent it out of shape I wouldnt worry about it. Its spring metal that changes shape with heat and as long as there is tension on it when you put it back in then it should be just fine.
 


Trannyman95 said:
I have only ran into a few cases where the ring gear wouldnt lift right out and it was because metal from a bad diff was stuck between the ring gear and case
Click to expand...

I am absolutely certain that was not the issue with mine ROFLMAO


IMG_8185a.jpg
 
You ever have one of those moments when you can't believe how stupid you are. Well I decided to skip removing the accumulator figuring that when I'm ready to remove it I'll just flip over the trans.

Well I overlooked the tube that supplies fluid to the final drive internal gear/diff. So I took a hammer and piece of wood and tapped the final drive and it moved like a 1/4 inch. I'm like yeah its comming out. I decide to tap hit another 2 times and it didn't move. So I start looking around and then I realized the lube tube that goes into it was pinched shut.:th_sign-oops: So I said screw it and ended up pounding it the rest the way out which ended up obviously cracking the tube.

Anyone have a spare lube tube that gets held in place by the black clip :th_embarassed:

If not, I'll have to get some aluminum tubing and make my own and might as well make a diff squirter

Live and Learn I guess:rolleyes:

slight ridges in case (I think its ok)



Poor casting and this is why I think might have scratched my 2nd clutch housing



Broken tube








 
On a side note, I'm trying to get a hold of a torsen / quaife. I understand these units only work with 98+ output shafts. I already have a spare 98-02 diff and output shaft, all I have to do is swap them in instead of the 97 diff and output shaft and I should be fine right?

Anyone know the part number for the sprag snap ring to be replaced.
 
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