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Intercooler piping pictures

N

NebTurboST5

New member
some people in my newbie thread wanted to see some intercooler piping pictures so without further adieu here they are...
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Thank you very much I am actually doing one this weekend and this will help very much!!
On your last photo you have the piping going through the frame it looks like, did you make that cut yourself or was there already a hole made for something else?
 
Loftus1995 said:
Thank you very much I am actually doing one this weekend and this will help very much!!
On your last photo you have the piping going through the frame it looks like, did you make that cut yourself or was there already a hole made for something else?
Click to expand...

it doesnt go through the frame just through the unibody right outside the frame rail. IIRC i used a 3 to 3.5 inch holesaw to drill it out or i might have used my boss's plasma i cant remember. but a holesaw should work well.
 
Is there a performance downside to the outlet long pipe to the intake. Im stuck between wanting to do a f-body intake, L26 with HV3, or the wild card twin-charged but thats more research on pros n cons which Ik what to do. how if I continue naturally turbo-spirated pros-n-cons of pass intake and driver intake.

So far I got for pass side : long ass water hose, limited access to serpentine / accessories, throttle cable routing
driver side : long ass pipe exposed across the bottom, more pipe used, possibly more joints and potential for boost leaks.
 


compressor discharge goes downward and curves around the AC drier and between the subframe/radiator support to curve around to the IC inlet
IMG_0350.jpg

here you can see the 2.5" discharge pipe to 3" connection point and the routing.
the reason is simple, i wanted the battery where it'll do the most good...weight forward and as far below the axle centerline as possible.
a true win win when going to pass TB
dischargepipe.jpg



throttle body side follows the usual path up over the washer res and through to the engine bay next to the res fill.
IMG_0357.jpg

its tight enough that the bumper cover being removed is nice but all clamp and coupler points were laid out and setup so that only the inner tire shield and/or the headlight have to be removed to service either side.
tbsidepipes.jpg


since i had enough foresight to know that i was gonna be doing alot of repair work for the trans... i did setup the car and build so that engine removal is simple. pipes are disconnected and left in-situ and the engine can be pulled with just the removal of the DP. no need to disconnect any turbo plumbing or hotside parts. much less chance of contamination at an oil line if you layout your setup properly.

its not as easy as unzipping my fly but its fantastically more serviceable than many setups.

 


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2.5" all around.

Since solid lower and solid upper mounts going on, skipped on the hump couplers. Bough some just in case, but never used them.
So only 4 couplers in total. No blow offs or anything had happened to it with the maybe ~1000 miles on it, and 100+ passes at the track.
Virtually no motor movement so worked out pretty well. I am sure once mounts wear out, i'll be hurting, but probably replace those
somewhat regular once any wear on the bottom mounts show.

No washer bottle, but no wipers either in the car. If I had kept it, I'd had used a FBody washer bottle up in the front where the nose holes are. Fits
great there.
 


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