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intercooler budget build shortstack

okay I might just leave it for now don't plan on tuning the car anymore after this maybe if I go like 3 months without putting a penny into the car ill toss a new one in
 


I'm on same AEM wideband I've been on for 4+ years. Never had an issue and when I tune open loop and go back to closed loop my trims are pretty darn close.

I'd double check your wiring to the wideband. Also those O2 codes will pop up if you are super lean or super rich. If you have an exhaust leak before the O2 or wideband you will get those same symptoms. Even if you have a pinhole leak by your wideband you could tune it fine, then when you go closed loop your O2 sensor will say you are rich.
 
im using an innovate which is much cheaper which could be part of my problem haha but ill check any exhaust leaks before the o2 as well those are much easier to find than vac
 
I wonder if you don't have a wiring problem with your wideband. I've never had a sensor go bad in the 10 years I've been using widebands, and I used to run a lot of leaded race gas.
 
wiring should be pretty straight forward with them its only a harness that attaches to the gauge and the gauge just has a hot and a ground wire also the main o2 throwing the code is just a stock oem replacement
 


that would be a cheap and easy fix lol I always just thought that having the key in the on positon would be an open air calibration though as long as the engine was off because its technically open air in the exaust during that time
 
GTPpower said:
I wonder if you don't have a wiring problem with your wideband. I've never had a sensor go bad in the 10 years I've been using widebands, and I used to run a lot of leaded race gas.
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ive burned up 2 wb sensors so far. they just read lean all the time when bad. at least mine both did. iirc one just set a line of dashes on the screen. like no signal from it anymore.
 
You can't calibrate with it in the exhaust because there will always be exhaust fumes that remain in the pipes. You have to pull it out and go through the calibration process in the link. I mean, double check your model number. Some sensors like my AEM don't not require it.
 


[TABLE="width: 629"]
[TR]
[TD]Forced induction street car[/TD]
[TD]Calibrate immediately after installing new sensor. Re-calibrate after first 3 months. Thereafter, calibrate twice per year or every 10,000 miles[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
Glad I don't have that WB. On the bright side, you have less of a chance of it getting frozen fr the pipe with all the removals. :th_laugh-lol2:
 
Ehh knowing my luck it'll still be frozen haha and I do think mine needs to be free air calibrated so I will try to knock it out over the weekend
 
do you guys have a good link for making or purchasing a cheap smoke vacuum tester? and what do I do when I test it just put it in the intake before the MAF? and then another test putting it in the brake booster vac hose? I do notice the 2 small 3 to 4 inch long hoses from the supercharger to the bbv are cracked beyond anything don't look broken but look like they could break with a strong gust of wind haha
 


Yep that's the one I made.

Pull intake off throttle body, cover tb with glove. I then use a vac line off the tree, connect one hose of smoke machine, slowly blow through the other. Just don't inhale, that crap is nasty. If you can't resist inhaling you can hook it up to a compressor just dial the air back.
 
ah okay for some reason I thought youd want the engine running well good thing I asked lol and could I use a basketball pump just real slowly instead of blowing myself? have one ive been looking to get rid of anyway
 
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