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input shaft

nascartech

nascartech

New member
ok so i am doing a build starting next summer and it looks like i will need to put in a better input shaft my question is is it hard to change and is there a link on how to do this thanks. have experiance with engines and stuff just not sure on transmissions
 


Remove trans, remove side cover, remove valve body, remove 4th hub, remove drive chain and gears with input shaft. Pretty much.
 
ah ok ill prob try it on my other tranny i have in my storage room first and since im in there should i put in the hard 4th cluch and will my chain be fine so just 4th cluch and input shaft my build is nic cam 3.0 42 lb injectors sd headers wideban tune and eventually meth and a 2.8 in the future along with slicks what u think
 
I would recommend when you do this to get an ATSG trans book for the trans. That'll tell you where to put all the check-balls and things back in their places. As for the input shaft, make sure you get it with teflon rings already sized. Most vendors like Intense/ZZP will probably have them on and sized already. Don't install the TCC o-ring on the tip by the splines until you get it into the case otherwise it'll hang up on that. Make sure you also get new valvebody and channel plate gaskets.
 
OH4CompG said:
I would recommend when you do this to get an ATSG trans book for the trans. That'll tell you where to put all the check-balls and things back in their places. As for the input shaft, make sure you get it with teflon rings already sized. Most vendors like Intense/ZZP will probably have them on and sized already. Don't install the TCC o-ring on the tip by the splines until you get it into the case otherwise it'll hang up on that. Make sure you also get new valvebody and channel plate gaskets.
Click to expand...

thanks for the tip comg
 
Or..you can skip needing a set of VB gaskets and not take the valve body and channel plate apart. Leave them bolted together for less work.

4T65E-02.jpg

Remove bolts 230, 231, 377, 805, 433, 434, 435, 436, 374, 379, 380, 384

Pull side cover
Pull wiring harness and remove epc/shift soleniod.
Remove pump bolts (not silver one)
Remove the bolts mentioned to get the vb/channel plate off as one unit.
Remove the 4th clutches and hub
Remove o-ring from input shaft on torque converter side
Remove drive/driven gears and chains along with input shaft
Swap input shaft on drive gear
Put drive/driven and chains back into case
Wiggle 4th clutch hub into place
Put 4th clutches and steels back in place, making sure the thickest steel goes on first (it's the apply plate, I think it's called)
Put your new channel plate gaskets in place
Lay channel plate and VB back on.
Torque each bolt to it's correct spec (one of 97in lbs, 106in lbs, 11ft lbs and 18ft lbs)
Put pump back on and torque to spec
Put soleniods and wiring harness back in place
replace side cover and torque to spec.

BTW..I forgot if the pump shaft is before or after the vb/channel plate. It's in there though. Thinkin after, before pump. It's early and no coffee yet. That's off the top of my head.
 


BillBoost37 said:
Or..you can skip needing a set of VB gaskets and not take the valve body and channel plate apart. Leave them bolted together for less work.

4T65E-02.jpg

Remove bolts 230, 231, 377, 805, 433, 434, 435, 436, 374, 379, 380, 384

Pull side cover
Pull wiring harness and remove epc/shift soleniod.
Remove pump bolts (not silver one)
Remove the bolts mentioned to get the vb/channel plate off as one unit.
Remove the 4th clutches and hub
Remove o-ring from input shaft on torque converter side
Remove drive/driven gears and chains along with input shaft
Swap input shaft on drive gear
Put drive/driven and chains back into case
Wiggle 4th clutch hub into place
Put 4th clutches and steels back in place, making sure the thickest steel goes on first (it's the apply plate, I think it's called)
Put your new channel plate gaskets in place
Lay channel plate and VB back on.
Torque each bolt to it's correct spec (one of 97in lbs, 106in lbs, 11ft lbs and 18ft lbs)
Put pump back on and torque to spec
Put soleniods and wiring harness back in place
replace side cover and torque to spec.

BTW..I forgot if the pump shaft is before or after the vb/channel plate. It's in there though. Thinkin after, before pump. It's early and no coffee yet. That's off the top of my head.
Click to expand...


thank you this will help alot i will try on my spar trans first then order that parts and do it on my car
 
Since you are doing it on the car later and have some spare parts. Note where the channel plate gaskets go, there's one pin on one end of a long gasket.

My second time out..I decided it was a serious pain to hold the gasket in place with goop and slide everything back together. I took a couple of the longer bolts (M6) from a spare and cut the heads off them. I barely thread them in a few turns (to make them easy to take out) and put the gaskets over them. Then as you bring the channel plate/VB assembly back in..you can feel with your fingers where the "guide pin" bolts are and slide it all right back together and in place the first time. Quick and easy.

The only thing to keep in mind is the length of your guide pin bolts and make sure you don't put one in a spot where it won't stick out when the assembly is on.

Then you put a few more bolts in to hold the stuff together and your gaskets, then take out your guide pin bolts an replace with the actual bolt.

I know.it's the simple things like this that we might not think of that make the job much easier. BTW if anyone needs some bolts..I usually have spares on hand.
 
The transmission has to be removed from the car to swap an input shaft. There is an o-ring on the torque converter side of the input shaft that can only be removed and replaced with the torque converter off. If you do this in the car it will tear up the oring and you wont have lockup or have a lot of lockup and overheating problems.
 
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