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I rebuilt my M90 rotors at home

Is this a common occurrence? I'm going to rebuild my Gen 3 M90 sometime in the near future. Its my DD so if something like this happens i will be in quite the bind.

As for the bearings Im not really sure what generation supercharger Holden uses but the bearings down here are sealed in the case and only a minnimal material breaks away to release the bearing ,there are only two reasons I can think of why these are sealed

1 It is done as a parts sales excersise at $900 + for a set of rotors you see what I mean also it strange other manafactures have key ways for rotor aligment aswell as there bearings are removable and use very similer designs

or

2 It is done to stop them from moving forward ,I have checked this out and cant see how they would move as the rotor holds them into place tightly and the outer bearing seat is tight but having said that you dont need a real lot of pressure to get them in ,so just to be on the safe side I locktited them but if you are really worried about it, you can do take the bearing block to an engineer get this done see picture

bearingblock.jpg


I havent done this several engineers and bearing suppliers assured me they wouldnt move once locktited in and I will have a challenge if I ever had to get them out again but they still will be removable
 


As for the bearings Im not really sure what generation supercharger Holden uses but the bearings down here are sealed in the case and only a minnimal material breaks away to release the bearing ,there are only two reasons I can think of why these are sealed

\

I am not concerned as much with holding them in, i could defiantly fab something to do that, more concerned with the alloy on the case cracking. If that happens id have to get someone who welds aluminum or a new piece altogether.
 
I am not concerned as much with holding them in, i could defiantly fab something to do that, more concerned with the alloy on the case cracking. If that happens id have to get someone who welds aluminum or a new piece altogether.

If thats the case get an engineer to remove the the lip by either something with a small sanding disc (like on hand drill ) or something on a bench drill that works like a lathe and only take off enough material to remove the bearing
 
I will have to do this when I get a gen V.

You shouldnt have to. The reason why the coating comes off on the gen3's is because eaton never roughed up the surface before they powdercoated them. In the gen5's they realized the problem and prepped it better and thats why you never hear of a gen5 rotor pack having chipped rotors. The powdercoating has a hard time of gripping the completely smooth surface and tends to flake off.
 


You shouldnt have to. The reason why the coating comes off on the gen3's is because eaton never roughed up the surface before they powdercoated them. In the gen5's they realized the problem and prepped it better and thats why you never hear of a gen5 rotor pack having chipped rotors. The powdercoating has a hard time of gripping the completely smooth surface and tends to flake off.


The coating I used is a porcelecian type,It has excellent ahedsion to smooth or rough surfaces
 
Cool. I was referring to the factory coating though. I have just finished recoating a set of spare rotors also, black abradable powdercoat. Surfaces have been roughened up to eliminate future problems.
 
Cool. I was referring to the factory coating though. I have just finished recoating a set of spare rotors also, black abradable powdercoat. Surfaces have been roughened up to eliminate future problems.


I have no Idea what generation the supercharger is that holden used but one those rotor coatings start to chip and peel ,the coating seems to fall off in no time ,a couple of members on the l67 forum have been running there rotors with nothing left on them at all because they cant afford a new rotor pack

I would hate to think what all of that coating does to your engine as it passes through
 
Well i followed your timing instructions and it worked pretty good. Spins freely and no catches. Sounds nice. The rotor pack i used was in bad shape, has a couple gouges in it but it should be fine. Used black abradable powdercoat to tighten up the clearances. Here are the results:

DSC01684.jpg
 


Ok I got mine done By High Performance Coatings (HPC) its called DF3 and its designed for rotors ,pistons skirts ETC and is harder wearing than the original coating and will tighten up the clearances making better boost This is their contact details in Australia


(North BrisbanE)
Unit 1, 11 Hinkler Court
Brendale Qld 4500
Telephone 07 3205 8115
Facsmile 07 3205 9115

Email [email protected]

or

HPC Vic
6 wastson rd industrial park
Leongatha Vic 3953
telephone 03 5664719
03 56624338
Fax 03 5662 4719
Email [email protected]


But heres the US HPC
High Performance Coatings - Worldwide leader in advanced ceramic coating, thermal barrier coatings and corrosion protection technology for the motorsports, industrial, aerospace, food processing and transportation industries. We've been coating pisto

They should be able to help , but you might have to contact the Australian Hpc first if they dont have it to find an equivalant as it might be a different name in the US
 
There is a company in Australia called mace engineering making the rotor block bearing seals

heres a quote
"As for high speed teflon seals in the rotor housing we can now supply these too, as the design has now been proofed to work well tolerant of varying shaft diameters
icon_smile.gif


Bare in mind that these seals from factory can be quite hard on the rotor shafts, with local wear of around .3mm not uncommon. I've even measure local wear, around where the seals make contact on one pair to be around .8mm
icon_eek.gif
This is based on over a sample of 15 rotor packs we've pulled apart.

contact details are http://www.maceengineering.com.au


call on 03 8685 8674 or 0405 215 336.

with our **** dollar you guys should be able get stuff from over here at a pretty good price
 


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