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I Need Ideas

Just post what you've got for a design on here so we can all help you out

Also I'll help out with the design and measurements and whatnot if you want too
 


shawnschuldt said:
trunk space i dont care about i just want to design a box i dont need to build in the trunk so it can be removed and coated in the summer. so im thinking im going to fire them up and make each sub its own box the only part im undecided with is the port. i have a design i can pm you and see if there is something i can improve on
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Well you're looking at at minimum 3 cubes per sub to make them sound good, so if you aren't worried about trunk space, you're looking at about 3ft x 3ft x 1 1/3ft box. You have two options though. Either rear firing & deaden your trunk, or front firing & seal the trunk off from the cabin completely.

Me personally, I'd say make a trapezoid-shaped box (in regard to the side) firing backward. That's just me though. Are you wanting a nice box or just functional?
 
RearVent-Modelwireframe-1.jpg
RearVent-X2.jpg
This is basically what i was thinking so far its 17"w x 30"L x 14"H Its right around 3 cubes before displacement and tuned to 32Hz if u think i should add a little more volume i can take it from 30" to 35" but keep in mind i need to get 2 of these side by side in my trunk fairly easily. when i get a chance i gotta cardboard these and see if this design will even go in i think it will tho
 
Whats the length of the piece inside the box making the port? and what is your port opening size?

Looks really nice!
 


Colossus said:
Last Q, is there a quick way to convert those measuments to fit a 12" sub.??
Click to expand...

which measurements? i could prolly figure it out

also if you mean the vent just tell what 12's and ill figure it out the difference is going to be small between this 15box and a 12 version
 
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shawnschuldt said:
which measurements? i could prolly figure it out

also if you mean the vent just tell what 12's and ill figure it out the difference is going to be small between this 15box and a 12 version
Click to expand...

I forgot in your OP that you're making this box for a 15" sub, I'm looking for a new 12" (i have a simple Sony xplod right now (college budget)) and was looking to make the box before hand. If you dont want to sent specific measurement, would I be safe just knocking off an inch for the box and a little less than an inch for the vent opening?
 
Colossus said:
I forgot in your OP that you're making this box for a 15" sub, I'm looking for a new 12" (i have a simple Sony xplod right now (college budget)) and was looking to make the box before hand. If you dont want to sent specific measurement, would I be safe just knocking off an inch for the box and a little less than an inch for the vent opening?
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its hard to say im making this to the specifics of my type-r 15s if i make it to the 12 version instead your looking at taking the box from 30" to 20" and the port opening would be 15.5x1 and about 16 long
 
Sorry where would the port be facing?

It also shouldnt be that close to the bottom if you're going to lay it down as pictured. It would lower your flowing capabilities.
 
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And yeah I know that the port is huge they aren't technically subs they're just lower frequency speaker used for dj setups.
 


matt5112 said:
Sorry where would the port be facing?

It also shouldnt be that close to the bottom if you're going to lay it down as pictured. It would lower your flowing capabilities.
Click to expand...

the way its designed right now its to the rear i can redesign if you guys believe that it would be and improvment in another direction. If i want to keep that design how far up do i need to come with the port?
 
For slot ports I'm not sure but for tubs its the diameter of the port.

I'd venture to guesstimate the height of the port.

Taking a router to the corners of the port would help with flow as well.

Have you decided on a driver yet? I could run some sims to find out how close you are to the limits of port flow.
 
i dont have anything crazy the subs that im moving from my old vehicle to my new one are alpine type-r 15's swr-1522d, as far as power it will be the same as my old vehicle about 1300watts rms

oh and i forgot if you could check that out it would be great with the current design i think i only have about half an inch more i could open it up before it gets too long or i can take the tune from 32 to 35 according to bbp 6 max air veloicity for that box right now is 25m/s
 
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matt5112 said:
For slot ports I'm not sure but for tubs its the diameter of the port.

I'd venture to guesstimate the height of the port.

Taking a router to the corners of the port would help with flow as well.

Have you decided on a driver yet? I could run some sims to find out how close you are to the limits of port flow.
Click to expand...



That seems pretty important. I thought box design was BASED on T/S of the speaker. So why is a box being designed without knowing the speaker?
 
shawnschuldt said:
i dont have anything crazy the subs that im moving from my old vehicle to my new one are alpine type-r 15's swr-1522d, as far as power it will be the same as my old vehicle about 1300watts rms

oh and i forgot if you could check that out it would be great with the current design i think i only have about half an inch more i could open it up before it gets too long or i can take the tune from 32 to 35 according to bbp 6 max air veloicity for that box right now is 25m/s
Click to expand...

25 m/s is good.

27 is max IIRC. 25 being ideal.

Still dont like the idea of firing into the trunk though.

I think you should pull the rear 6x9's and 4's if you have 'em, if not, just pop out the pre-cut insulation in the rear deck and install a bose rear deck lid.

Then have the ports sealed to those holes.
 


matt5112 said:
25 m/s is good.

27 is max IIRC. 25 being ideal.

Still dont like the idea of firing into the trunk though.

I think you should pull the rear 6x9's and 4's if you have 'em, if not, just pop out the pre-cut insulation in the rear deck and install a bose rear deck lid.

Then have the ports sealed to those holes.
Click to expand...

im open to most designs, but do you have a pic of that rear deck. and if i understand you right use the existing holes for the port to come through and the bose rear deck so it looks stock?
 
Exactly... I haven't done this myself seeing as my box is sealed so I can't really show you.

But both holes are open since my 6x9's took a dump.
 
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