idrivejunk
New member
I have a 1999 GP, a GT coupe, that was pushed over a curb in a collision. The right rear wheel sits WAY too far IN at the top as a result.
Its normal for the wheels to look like they sit crooked on these cars, but I have another one for reference and this was obviously wrong.
After visual inspection of the existing parts, no alarming damage or bent parts are obvious. An alignment might fix it. BUT-
If you don't do what I'm about to explain before getting the car set up on an alignment rack, you may have to pay extra to have it done by the alignment tech. I don't mind doing that. But in this case I can possibly avoid it by creating some added range of adjustment for that guy to work with before going to see him.
This is very basic, not much more complex than changing a tire. These pics just provide a visual for easier understanding of the task without speculation on when or where its needed. The idea is to do as little as possible because without being on an alignment rack, you don't really know which direction to go. Mine was obvious but I'm skipping the tire pic so nobody thinks too hard about it lol.
Right rear, 99 GP GT coupe shown. Just about anything with struts front or rear will be constructed in the same way.
Remove top nut, loosen bottom one slightly. Don't try to turn that funky bolt head, there are splines holding the bolt still and you'll tear chit up or hurt yerself. Ignore the bolt head and just unscrew the nut. Then drive the bolt straight out, no turning until splines are free. Honestly, for this I used a hatchet. It was all I had on hand at home. This allows the knuckle to tilt outward at the top, in relation to the strut. See?
Front view. See where I've moved the knuckle outward at the top? Thats more than enough but I wanted to avoid grinding the knuckle.
This was how I gently pried the knuckle into the desired position with a tire iron-
I got out the Dremel tool-
... and in a sloppy manner, I created some slop! Removed just enough material for the bolt to move outward, just BARELY. Would have looked neater if the brake line wasn't in the way. No points for neatness on this. The hole on the rear side of this strut was big enough to allow room without grinding. Its the side with the bolt splines (front) where this work is done.
So yeah, I thumped on the bolt head a few times putting it back in. You can put the tire back on with a couple nuts to gain leverage for aligning the hole, and to check how the wheel sits. This tiny bit of movement was good for probably close to an inch of adjustment out at the tread surface. No kidding, it doesn't take much but they almost all (97-03 anyway) need this to be within spec. Even with new struts. Beats using a skinny bolt, I say. I also say resist the urge to enlarge the entire hole with a drill. You just need a little slot to it, in the right spot to correct your issue.
Its normal for the wheels to look like they sit crooked on these cars, but I have another one for reference and this was obviously wrong.
After visual inspection of the existing parts, no alarming damage or bent parts are obvious. An alignment might fix it. BUT-
If you don't do what I'm about to explain before getting the car set up on an alignment rack, you may have to pay extra to have it done by the alignment tech. I don't mind doing that. But in this case I can possibly avoid it by creating some added range of adjustment for that guy to work with before going to see him.
This is very basic, not much more complex than changing a tire. These pics just provide a visual for easier understanding of the task without speculation on when or where its needed. The idea is to do as little as possible because without being on an alignment rack, you don't really know which direction to go. Mine was obvious but I'm skipping the tire pic so nobody thinks too hard about it lol.
Right rear, 99 GP GT coupe shown. Just about anything with struts front or rear will be constructed in the same way.
Remove top nut, loosen bottom one slightly. Don't try to turn that funky bolt head, there are splines holding the bolt still and you'll tear chit up or hurt yerself. Ignore the bolt head and just unscrew the nut. Then drive the bolt straight out, no turning until splines are free. Honestly, for this I used a hatchet. It was all I had on hand at home. This allows the knuckle to tilt outward at the top, in relation to the strut. See?
Front view. See where I've moved the knuckle outward at the top? Thats more than enough but I wanted to avoid grinding the knuckle.
This was how I gently pried the knuckle into the desired position with a tire iron-
I got out the Dremel tool-
... and in a sloppy manner, I created some slop! Removed just enough material for the bolt to move outward, just BARELY. Would have looked neater if the brake line wasn't in the way. No points for neatness on this. The hole on the rear side of this strut was big enough to allow room without grinding. Its the side with the bolt splines (front) where this work is done.
So yeah, I thumped on the bolt head a few times putting it back in. You can put the tire back on with a couple nuts to gain leverage for aligning the hole, and to check how the wheel sits. This tiny bit of movement was good for probably close to an inch of adjustment out at the tread surface. No kidding, it doesn't take much but they almost all (97-03 anyway) need this to be within spec. Even with new struts. Beats using a skinny bolt, I say. I also say resist the urge to enlarge the entire hole with a drill. You just need a little slot to it, in the right spot to correct your issue.
