How to- Retrofit Projectors 97-03 GP
- Thread starter LS1GTP
- Start date
Bronco Boy
Donating Users
They appear to be the same as the OE one's.
It is proper alignment of the projector. The hot spot is the center/brightest part of the light. The circle represents the hot spot of my halogen bulb:
And here the hot spot of the projector is slightly to the left and to high compaired to the halogen hot spot:
Fixedwing1
New member
They appear to be the same as the OE one's.
It is proper alignment of the projector. The hot spot is the center/brightest part of the light. The circle represents the hot spot of my halogen bulb:
And here the hot spot of the projector is slightly to the left and to high compaired to the halogen hot spot:
Oh ok that makes sense. Could you do me a favor and give me the exact part numbers you ordered on those assemblies so I can make sure to get the same? Did you order the reg stock or CAPA certified?
Bronco Boy
Donating Users
I got them from Rock Auto. #'s are in the link I posted......
Here's a link to RockAuto: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1382532&parttype=10762
Fixedwing1
New member
Do you remember if you ordered reg stock or CAPA Certified? you can get either or for that part number. Yea the Eagle Eyes I got are actually different on the insides of the housings. in the right light the projector doesnt sit in the same way as the left because of the way the refloctor grid is molded. IDK whats up with it, hopefully if i go the TYC way I wont have this problem. Ill try and post pics of it later.
Bronco Boy
Donating Users
Sorry, didn't see that in the price list. I got regular.
Here's some better pics of the first set I got, which got regular HID's.....
http://chrisb.users.superford.org/Grand_Prix/Projects/Headlight_Housings/Headlight_Housings.html
Fixedwing1
New member
The first is the passenger side light, as you can see (barely, sorry) by the screwdriver tip there is a slight raise in the reflector grid by the bulb base.
The second is the drivers side, again by the screwdriver tip, you can see that the reflector grid is almost flush with bulb base.
At least hopefully you can see it, I know they are sucky pics, but was taken and uploaded with my phone. Sorry. Basically that raise in the grid by the base on the passenger side doesn't allow the projector to align correctly like on the drivers side housing. Just want to make sure hopefully that the TYCs don't do the same thing, want them to be at least identical, whether it be raised or flush, just want them to be the same to make both projectors align like the other.
Fixedwing1
New member
Ok so when doing the final tightening of the projectors in the housings, will the nuts actually get tight? Or do they just get right enough to where the strip out? Thought I read somewhere that it is designed to strip out to be a permanent mount, but can't find it again? I can get them tight, but seems can a bit more, just don't want to break anything. All I have left to do before final cutoff alignment and sealing!
Fivefingerdeathpunch
New member
I just went really snug, didnt want to damage the threads.
The projectors didnt move inside and after over a year, the beams still look fine even though they were off from the get go because it was my first set.
The projectors didnt move inside and after over a year, the beams still look fine even though they were off from the get go because it was my first set.
Fixedwing1
New member
Ok cool. So my next question would be, even at snug, if the lenses were off could you still rotate the projector by hand to adjust your horizontal cutoff. Mine are snug now, but I can still rotate the projector, it's not easy, but can still be done.
Last edited:
Fixedwing1
New member
Don't do 350, it is recommended to do it around 270. The start of this thread recommended 225. I did mine at 270 for 15 min and came right apart. Corner lenses are a b!?$&. Be careful with those if you do them. I guess 350 be okay if it was okay for him, but haven't heard of anyone doing it that hot, but not saying it can't be done. As far as cleaning out the channels, which is what I think your asking, right after I got my lenses off I peeled as much of it out as I could. On one housing had to put it back in oven for a few min to keep it soft. After I got the majority out, I used a Dremmel with wire wheel to clean out the channels really well.
Bronco Boy
Donating Users
350* for 2 hours?!? You're lucky the oven was off. :th_laugh-lol3:
I found that 250* for around 30 minutes was ideal.
I found that 250* for around 30 minutes was ideal.
Fixedwing1
New member
Retrofit finally done and installed
Amber halossorru some pics get flipped, haven't figured that out yet. The other two pics are of the overhead console, as you can see this is where I added the switch for the halos and an extra switched, wired em in and added a plug. The halos do not have to be wired to a switch, but I just wanted to have the control of when they were on and when they weren't.
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Fixedwing1
New member
Thanks, Yea I think it looks pretty bad a$$, plus it's legal, ain't crap coppers can do about em!! Thinkin I may build another set, seeing as how this was my first, and I learned so much, had a few things I didn't like about em. You can't see it unless you know what to look for. But I know it's there. Anyway was thinkin about keepin the amber halos, but also going with a red demon eye, I think that would look pretty bad arss too!
Fixedwing1
New member
Sanding the inside is only needed if you are planning on painting. If you are wanting the chrome, then no sanding. If you are wanting to paint I would not advise painting wo sanding because of the risk that the paint will probably not stick over a prolonged amount of time!! As far as the adjustment..... Are you talking about using your adjustment screws??? You could but more than likely you would use all of the adjustment to kick the headlights out far enough to get the beams straight out in front of the car. Then your headlights will look funny being kicked out so far. The reasoning for having the projectors face out a bit in the housings is to ensure that they will be facing straight out in front of the car with minimal adjustment from the adjustment screws. I don't even know if you would have enough adjustment in your screws if you didn't make sure the projectors were facing outward. It seems like to me, although I did grind down the inside where they would face outward, that if you can get the proper angle when grinding down the back outside of housings that you could avoid grinding down the inside, as the back would have the proper angle already there so when tightened down using a flat washer with the nut versus the concaved washer, it would cause the projector to tighten into place correctly. Idk if that made sense.