GeddyLee
New member
I have gotten quite adept at taking my front end apart of late due to a blown passanger side CV boot, and then a wobbly driver side half shaft, so I figured it would be a good time to take some detailed pictures on how to remove you hub assembly from the front wheels of our GPs.
1. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel to which the hub needs to be replaced. But to do it while it's still on the ground and not jacked up in the air. (obvious one there
)
2. Jack up the car and use jack stands to support sides of the frame underneather the engine. I also go a step further and leave the jack still still propped up against the front cross member of the frame. That way if one of the jack stands fail, the car won't fall over on ya
3. Once jacked up, remove the lug nuts completely from the wheel and take off the wheel.
4. The next step is to take axel nut off the axel. There are several methods to do this. I used this method below.
The old ratchet extension stuck in the brake rotor vein trick. I used a 36mm socket with a nice long breaker bar to get the axel nut started. Once loosened I was able to undo the rest with just the socket wrench and then finally my fingers at the end.
5. Once you have the axel nut off, you need to remove your brake caliper AND the caliper bracket from the back of the knuckle. There are 2 bolts you need to take off, the bolts require a 15mm socket. Remember, you only need to remove the 2 bolts securing the caliper bracket. The caliper is obviously connected to the bracket so you do not need to undo those bolts. As shown below.
6. Once you have both bolts out, you need to store the brake caliper out of the way. I find the bunge cord method works quite well. A coat hanger would also work, but its a bit more time consuming having to bend and shape the thing.
7. After you remove the brake rotor from the hub, you will have the hub assembly staring you dead in the face.
8. There are 3 bolts securing the hub to the knuckle of the car. Remember to disconnect the ABS plug before removing the hub from the knuckle. As shown below.
9. Once the ABS connection has been unplugged, you can remove the 3 bolts securing the hub. The bolts are 13mm in size. One at the top, and two at the bottom on both sides of the bottom part of the knuckle.
The Top Bolt
The bottom front bolt
The bottom rear bolt
10. Once you have all 3 bolts removed. You can safely remove the hub from the knuckle and axel.
You should only have 2 bolts removed from your brake caliper and 3 from the hub itself.
Once you have replaced your hub, you go backwards in order 10 through 1. I use lock tite, the red stuff, to rescure the bolts inplace. And I use anti seize on the axel nut when I put the nut back on. The driver side requires 118lbs of torque and the passanger side requires approx 108lbs of torque to tighten.
1. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel to which the hub needs to be replaced. But to do it while it's still on the ground and not jacked up in the air. (obvious one there
)2. Jack up the car and use jack stands to support sides of the frame underneather the engine. I also go a step further and leave the jack still still propped up against the front cross member of the frame. That way if one of the jack stands fail, the car won't fall over on ya
3. Once jacked up, remove the lug nuts completely from the wheel and take off the wheel.
4. The next step is to take axel nut off the axel. There are several methods to do this. I used this method below.
The old ratchet extension stuck in the brake rotor vein trick. I used a 36mm socket with a nice long breaker bar to get the axel nut started. Once loosened I was able to undo the rest with just the socket wrench and then finally my fingers at the end.
5. Once you have the axel nut off, you need to remove your brake caliper AND the caliper bracket from the back of the knuckle. There are 2 bolts you need to take off, the bolts require a 15mm socket. Remember, you only need to remove the 2 bolts securing the caliper bracket. The caliper is obviously connected to the bracket so you do not need to undo those bolts. As shown below.
6. Once you have both bolts out, you need to store the brake caliper out of the way. I find the bunge cord method works quite well. A coat hanger would also work, but its a bit more time consuming having to bend and shape the thing.
7. After you remove the brake rotor from the hub, you will have the hub assembly staring you dead in the face.
8. There are 3 bolts securing the hub to the knuckle of the car. Remember to disconnect the ABS plug before removing the hub from the knuckle. As shown below.
9. Once the ABS connection has been unplugged, you can remove the 3 bolts securing the hub. The bolts are 13mm in size. One at the top, and two at the bottom on both sides of the bottom part of the knuckle.
The Top Bolt
The bottom front bolt
The bottom rear bolt
10. Once you have all 3 bolts removed. You can safely remove the hub from the knuckle and axel.
You should only have 2 bolts removed from your brake caliper and 3 from the hub itself.
Once you have replaced your hub, you go backwards in order 10 through 1. I use lock tite, the red stuff, to rescure the bolts inplace. And I use anti seize on the axel nut when I put the nut back on. The driver side requires 118lbs of torque and the passanger side requires approx 108lbs of torque to tighten.
Last edited:
My apologies 
