BillBoost37
New member
Jack and support the car.
Zip the tire out of the way
34mm socket for Bonneville axle nuts, 36mm socket for W bodies. Remove axle nut
Thread nut back on so it's flush with the end of the axle. This way when you hit it, the threads on the axle do not become hurt. Hit until you see axle move inward. This is to free it from the tapered splines of the hub/bearing.
Remove cotter pin from the castle nut on the balljoint
Using your 18mm wrench remove the castle nut from the balljoint
If the nut won't come out.. do your best to have it fully loosened.
Undo your endlink to facilitate the control arm moving.
Unbolt the brake like from the body/strut
Bring in a 4-5 foot prybar (I use my steel floor jack handle) from by the front bumper where the wheel well meets it toward the body between the body edge and subframe bolts. Slide it under the axle and over the control arm.
Pry down. It helps to have a helper. At the same time as the prying, hit the balljoing on the side (not where the grease zerk is, other side ) and after a few hits the ball joint will come free from the knuckle. Move the strut/knuckle behind the ball joint before letting the control arm back up.
I like to sit/kneel facing the hub. My hand that is closer to the rear of the vehicle grabs the caliper and pulls outward and toward the rear of the vehicle. At the same time, the hand that is closer to the front of the car reaches around and cups the CV between the hub an the outter CV joint. Pushing backward on the CV and outward and back on the knuckle you pull the axle out of the hub and then lay it on the control arm. Pics for this part are poor because I was basically blocking all the shots with my body to do the work.
I moved my hand off the CV for a second for this shot. My hand was between the hub and the outter boot of the CV.
Crawl under and use a prybar etc (usually I use a block of wood and hammer on the pass side and prybar on driverside). to give the CV a quick pop like hit from the back. If you put tension on it the clip will hold it in. A quick pop is what is needed to remove it. Here we have the prybar in place.
And the axle is out.
You may notice that somebody forgot that the axle seals, seal the axles from leaking trans fluid because the level of fluid is above them.
That someone then got under the car and drained the trans.
Technically this step should be before now. For anyone wondering $5 Steralite or Rubbermaid from Walmarts storage section.
Zip the tire out of the way
34mm socket for Bonneville axle nuts, 36mm socket for W bodies. Remove axle nut
Thread nut back on so it's flush with the end of the axle. This way when you hit it, the threads on the axle do not become hurt. Hit until you see axle move inward. This is to free it from the tapered splines of the hub/bearing.
Remove cotter pin from the castle nut on the balljoint
Using your 18mm wrench remove the castle nut from the balljoint
If the nut won't come out.. do your best to have it fully loosened.
Undo your endlink to facilitate the control arm moving.
Unbolt the brake like from the body/strut
Bring in a 4-5 foot prybar (I use my steel floor jack handle) from by the front bumper where the wheel well meets it toward the body between the body edge and subframe bolts. Slide it under the axle and over the control arm.
Pry down. It helps to have a helper. At the same time as the prying, hit the balljoing on the side (not where the grease zerk is, other side ) and after a few hits the ball joint will come free from the knuckle. Move the strut/knuckle behind the ball joint before letting the control arm back up.
I like to sit/kneel facing the hub. My hand that is closer to the rear of the vehicle grabs the caliper and pulls outward and toward the rear of the vehicle. At the same time, the hand that is closer to the front of the car reaches around and cups the CV between the hub an the outter CV joint. Pushing backward on the CV and outward and back on the knuckle you pull the axle out of the hub and then lay it on the control arm. Pics for this part are poor because I was basically blocking all the shots with my body to do the work.
I moved my hand off the CV for a second for this shot. My hand was between the hub and the outter boot of the CV.
Crawl under and use a prybar etc (usually I use a block of wood and hammer on the pass side and prybar on driverside). to give the CV a quick pop like hit from the back. If you put tension on it the clip will hold it in. A quick pop is what is needed to remove it. Here we have the prybar in place.
And the axle is out.
You may notice that somebody forgot that the axle seals, seal the axles from leaking trans fluid because the level of fluid is above them.
That someone then got under the car and drained the trans.
Technically this step should be before now. For anyone wondering $5 Steralite or Rubbermaid from Walmarts storage section.
