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How to remove a transmission

BillBoost37

New member
Flat head screw driver
Philllips screwdriver
13mm wrench
18mm wrench
8mm socket (all sockets deep unless stated)
10mm socket
13mm socket
15mm socket
18mm deep and shallow sockets
34/36mm sockets
24-48" of extensions
Needle nose pliers
3-4 foot 4x4 and 4 feet of chain or engine holder with accessories
push pin clip popper always good to have.
Jackstands and jack

Disconnect negative battery cable
Pop shifter cable off of selector arm
Unplug 2 connectors at trans range position switch (97-99ish)
Remove 2 13mm bolts holding shifter cable bracket to trans (keep cable in bracket)
Remove 15mm nut on from lower trans to engine bolt location to remove negative cable from that stud.
Support engine with fixture or 4x4 and chain (Make sure this is well done and it's taunt, your life will rely on it)
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Jack the car pretty high and support from drip edge (factory jacking location in front along door sill) I go to the limit of my jack.
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Drain trans fluid (10mm)
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Remove both front tires (19mm)
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Remove splash shields that keep you from seeing trans/engine (phillips/pop clips)
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Remove cotter pins from ball joints
Remove ball joint castle nuts (18mm)
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Remove the two bolts (18mm both sides) that hold the ps rack to the subframe
Remove both sway bar end links (stock 13mm)
Disconnect ABS sensors from wiring
Remove 10mm bolt that holds brake line bracket to body in wheel well
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Remove both axle nuts (stock 36mm, aftermarket typically 34mm)
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Leaving axle nut on end of spline hit (to not mess up threads) the axle inward until it's freed from the hub and moving
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Using a long prybar have an assistant pry down on the lower control arm while you hit the balljoint to free it from the knuckle
Remove both axles from hubs
Remove axles from trans
Remove any clips holding ps lines, wires, abs sensor wiring etc to subframe
Remove 4 18mm bolts holding subframe to body, slide out of way
Remove starter plastic shroud (POS in way of bolts (10mm)
Remove starter (2 15mm bolts, then wiring held on by 8mm and 13mm)
Remove plastic flywheel shield (10mm)
Remove 3 flex to torque converter bolts (18mm) you can turn flywheel with screwdriver
At passenger wheel area:
Disconnect VSS sensor on diff cover of trans
Remove trans to engine diff bracket (4 13mm)
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Use extenions and deep 18mm socket to remove bolt that goes from engine into trans on the back of the engine.
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Support trans from below with trans jack/atv jack etc
Remove 4 (18mm) bolts holding trans to engine from above
Pry trans off engine and lower
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When trans is down, remove 1 10mm bolt holding dipstick tube in trans and pull tube out.
Slide trans out
Reverse for install

Tons of pics about axle pulling/balljoint etc and stuff in my photobucket account.

ID: BillBoost37
Psd: Boosted

Easy
 
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I'll be replacing my trans with a rebuilt from "Triple Edge Performance" due to my "forward apply band" took a dump. Symptoms: car won't move in D, or 3, but will slip badly in 2, and will move somewhat better in 1, reverse is fine.
Thanks for your post. It will be helpful when I remove mine.
Tim
 
How much on average would a shop chatge for a transmission swap anyway? Say on a 04-08? Just been runnin through my head and havent called a shop yet?
 
depends, if you have a tranny for them to install then less, but if you have them rebuild and install it will be more

with your own tranny prolly 800-1200, depending on what kind of shop

they rebuild your tranny and install: prolly 1500-2000

Im just guessing here, but its more like from what i heard kinda guess's.

call a few places and see what they say
 
i just got my new transmission.. i will use this write up as a guide in removing my old transmission and replacing it with the new one. Thanks for sharing this! :th_thumbsup-wink:
 
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My only concern, maybe I missed it, but how do you lift the car up high enough to slide the trans out from under the car? I'm used to doing this on a lift, but not on the :th_thumbsup-wink:floor.
 


could you say 2 mechanically inclined noobs with all the right tools could pull this off in less than say, 6 hours?
 
Bump?

GT..That's gonna be a tight deadline. I can zip one out myself in about 6 if I'm cruisin.

WOTGTP, Intrigue98 and myself did one in about 3 hours one night. that was hustling though.
 


It's easy. One other trick. If you don't have enough extension for the backwards bolt. lower the ps pump as mentioned, then use about 12" extension under the exhaust manifold. You can do it that way as well.
 
Okay well the facility closes at six so I guess i'll see how much I can get done now and finish pulling it later

Masami (Elegant Beauty)
1995 Pontiac Grand Prix SE w/aero package
 
I guess I didn't realize how much had to come off to pull a transmission

Masami (Elegant Beauty)
1995 Pontiac Grand Prix SE w/aero package
 
I am going to attempt to pull a transmission out of a 1998 Grand Prix non-supercharged. I read your article and still have a couple of questions. How high do you need it off the ground? How would you make or where do you purchase the hoist u were talking about to hold the motor up. And will you end up pulling the entire subframe out before the transmission will drop? Thanks a ton man.
 


I added some pictures of how high I go. Pretty much the limit of your jack. Depending on how you raise and lower the transmission will matter. I have an ATV jack that I use to lift/lower the trans and it works great. Takes up a few extra inches though.
 
I know I'm a noob to this particular subject but do u know whether I could use this same write up to take the tranny from my 07 impala I want to do my own write up for removal (i have yet to find one thus why im on the grand prix forums but I still plan using a chilton manual (but those things get me into more trouble than I can get out of) but I bought the TEP parts and they are sitting on my washer and I look at them everyday thinking Well my tranny guy told me he'd rebuild it for 300 if I could get the trans out and to his shop. Sigh
 
its should be very close if not all the same really. its just a matter of unbolting it all and un hooking the lines and wires and shift linkage and so on.
 
Ok I figured it would be just differences in what to disconnect on the motor I've only done rear wheel drives in the past
 
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