• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

How to pull an engine: BillBoost Style

Great wright up! And thanks to seventone for adding his pictures. Have went over this thread and others a few times prior to pulling my sons motor(only) out to seal up some leaks, but mainly replace a damaged flex plate.

Everything going pretty smooth for a father and son whos never yanked a motor all the way out.
My question is, he has headers on his car, and looking like the rear ones will have to be unbolted from the motor. Now they were off not to long ago so not worried about breaking anything etc, but just verifying if you agree, they will need to come off? The front looks ok on clearance, pretty close to fan shroud tho, assuming the engine removal goes pretty much wiggle wiggle and straight up and out.
 


Every engine I removed , the headers went on after the engine was in the car.
This leaves plenty of room and provides access to the rear trans bolts
 
You need to remove the front header, disconnect the rear header from the head and that can stay in the engine bay. Your not going to have a good time if you leave them attached.
 
Swiggles said:
You need to remove the front header, disconnect the rear header from the head and that can stay in the engine bay. Your not going to have a good time if you leave them attached.
Click to expand...

It came out with disconnecting the crossover and rear. front stayed on.
 
i too unbolted the headers, not a big deal really.

take the plugs out first so you dont break em. they are the last thing you install after it back in too.
 


These ones

605b783e.jpg



bonus fact - during my rebuild I misplaced these and had to reuse the OEM bolts and changing the plugs those posts get in the way
then a week later I found my header bolts
 


CrazyGuy03 said:
Wait I'm confused. You prefer the ones that have a stud sticking out on top of the bolt head aka OEM bolts?
Click to expand...


ask any one, studs are stronger then bolts. and you feel them tighten up much more.

studs do stick out, but for the clamping power, ill take it. this is a 6.0 1/2 the bolt heads snapped off on their own. stock crap i know, all the same tho, ill take studs.

manifold_zps93d93ec1.jpg


mannybolts_zps1f03f5a7.jpg
 
Well to be fair to my own argument - I don't torque the piss outta the headers and anti-seize is on every bolt in my car that allows it
 
One word of advice is if you go ARP head bolts/studs, to check the fitment of the headers onto the heads prior to install. My pacesetters required some grinding to give room for the nuts on the studs which sit higher than the oem... Pics available if required, lol. After fitment you can and want to take them (headers) off for engine install.
 


This method worked flawless for me this past spring. It took me about 24 hours of labor to pull engine/trans, rebuild engine, rebuild suspension and brakes, reinstall engine/trans and run some new wires for a top-swap. Did it over a 3 day weekend with air tools.

I am in the minority but I dropped the engine/trans in with the front and rear header installed. Had to use the engine leveler and push the a/c line but it wasn't too bad. I think I had the radiator pulled too but can't remember if it was in or not at the time of install. Did a flush and clean. I remember it being a tight fit and going slow not to damage anything.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top