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How to install headers: The easy method

You can get the stock manifold out the top. It's kinda like pulling a round peg through a nearly large enough square hole though. You are getting it up past the EGR tube, the alternator, valve cover, map sensor etc etc etc. Out the bottom..it's a quick simple slide and out.

I find ratcheting wrenches are great, use them all the time. I also have a flex head longer handle ratchet and six point sockets. If you hold the right spots and make sure you aren't going off at odd angles, you won't round any nuts/bolt heads.

Planning ahead will save you a lot of time.. I bolt up the rear with a couple bolts, then mark the firewall where you need to move it. Pull header, move firewall, header back in. Taking the headers to a shop ahead of time and getting the bung in a different location would save install time. Also.. have some cold water on hand and don't mess around staring at things for hours. Remove nuts/bolts and set old parts to the side.. put new parts on and you'll be done faster than you think.

Have the torca clamps on hand. 2 x 2.25" and 2 x 3.00. Plan if you are going to cat it or not.

I pull the parts off. Plugs, move wires out of way, pull front/rear and undo from catback. Wipe the MLS stock gaskets and head straight to the rear and moving the firewall. Then it's clamp slid in place, crossover and front. Once you have them on the motor, you hop under and connect to the catback with new bolts you already grabbed.

That's the basic steps. If you don't screw around removing extra stuff and whining about angles or a scratch or two.. you'll be done pretty fast.
 


i used no sealant at all.

buy band clamps, dont use the U clamps. re use the factory head to manifold gaskets. toss the ones you got new there in the trash.

why take the alt and bracket off? unless the elbows were leaking already.
 
I got new stainless
so I figured might as well do it all at once
Anything else I should swap while I have it taken apart
 


valente said:
They Are not Speed daddys.
Got them a few months ago
I need to find the paperwork
Ebay
Click to expand...

You sure? They look nearly identical to the speed daddys I put on my GTP.

buy band clamps, dont use the U clamps. re use the factory head to manifold gaskets. toss the ones you got new there in the trash.
Click to expand...

I'm sure the factory manifold gaskets work great, but I've had good luck with the gaskets in the kit also. Not sure you can go wrong either way. Agreed on the band clamps, they work great.... the U clamps absolutely suck, leak and break when you try to tighten the leaks out.
 


So I got the back one in
http://
This is how it looks from the front of the engine
http://


Do I need to torke the bolts that hold the headers, if so what are the specs.
Thanks
What kind of bolts do I need to hook together the resonator and pipes
I am waiting for the new resonator, but I just wanted to know so I can go and buy them before it gets here
 
Last edited:
German torque specs are needed.

Good n' tight.

Don't tighten any of the bolts down untill both the front header and rear headers are in place with the crossover, otherwise you'll never get them to fit correctly.

For the rear flange to connect the headers to the rest of th exhaust right infront of the resonator, any real bolts will do fine. Some coated bolts or stainless bolts are better to help stop rust build up.
 
Billbost - question for you... I have SLP headers on my car... bought it like that... the exhaust is leaking at the clamp connections on the front manifold to crossover and the rear crossover clamp. They appear to be the clamps supplied from SLP. I haven't tried to tighten them down because they appear to be fully tightened down. I know it is them leaking because I seafoamed the car last weekend and I saw the smoke coming from the area right at the clamps. Any suggestions on what to do? Replace the clamps?
 
id remove the front header, then pull the cross over and add some copper rtv to the slip joints, then when you put the front header back on wiggle the crossover so its sitting as straight as possible into both ends as you snug up the front bolts. then clamp the cross over down.
 


if the bolts still work on them re use em. new clamps are like 10 a pop. i like the wide clamps that cover the seam myself. just make sure one of the bolts is clamping the round part of the slip joint.
 
My O2 sensors connectors don't reach, cant plug them in
The first sensor, closes to the engine
Can I buy a extension
What is it called?
Thanks
 
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