How to increase Throttle response on 04+ GPs

[SF9777]

Technically, yes. I am thinking that maybe I am just not a sensitive guy.

GM, Autolite, and NGK iridiums are all great choices. They're the same price.

P0411?

Ok cool thanks, and ya thats the code and it is secondary incorrect air flow detected. Any idea what that is?

 

[Rico]

Gotta love the California emissions laws.

This may help.
Reference: Trouble Code Po411 for 06 Pontiac Grand Prix - Engine Fault Codes

There is an electric Air Injection Reaction (AIR) pump motor assembly; that supplies fresh air into the exhaust system. This is to help the catalytic converter to heat up and begin working faster after a cold start.

P0411 sets when the PCM (computer) senses that there is low or no air flow from the pump; after the PCM commands the pump on and the air control solenoid open.
There are 62 steps in the test procedure and the need of a by-directional scan tool, to command the PCM to perform certain functions.
About the only things you can do without the scanner is a visual inspection of the pump and the 50 amp fuse. The AIR pump is located under the hood; left of the starter motor. Check it for cracks, piping that has become disconnected and whether there are signs of it becoming melted. If the solenoid control valve is stuck open; hot exhaust gases will enter and melt the plastic pump.
The 50 amp fuse is in the under hood fuse panel.
It’s a fussy little system and you have to make sure that all the components of the system are functioning properly. If they are not; you'll fix one part like the pump; but if the control solenoid is stuck open; you’ll be replacing the pump again.

 

[Ice Blue La Crosse]

I jus replaced my Air Injection Reaction pump cause of that code..why you did tha intake..did & where did you connect tha hose that ran to tha side
of tha air box?

 

[Rico]

I jus replaced my Air Injection Reaction pump cause of that code..why you did tha intake..did & where did you connect tha hose that ran to tha side
of tha air box?

So you installed a CAI and your asking where to put the hose for which there is now no provision because the stock filter box is gone. Correct?

Sorry, but your question is quite cryptic and I'm trying to decipher it.
de·ci·pher

/dɪˈsaɪfər/ Show Spelled[dih-sahy-fer]
verb (used with object)
1. to make out the meaning of (poor or partially obliterated writing, etc.): to decipher a hastily scribbled note.
2. to discover the meaning of (anything obscure or difficult to trace or understand): to decipher hieroglyphics.
3. to interpret by the use of a key, as something written in cipher: to decipher a secret message.

 

[Ice Blue La Crosse]

So you installed a CAI and your asking where to put the hose for which there is now no provision because the stock filter box is gone. Correct?

Sorry, but your question is quite cryptic and I'm trying to decipher it.
de·ci·pher

/dɪˈsaɪfər/ Show Spelled[dih-sahy-fer]
verb (used with object)
1. to make out the meaning of (poor or partially obliterated writing, etc.): to decipher a hastily scribbled note.
2. to discover the meaning of (anything obscure or difficult to trace or understand): to decipher hieroglyphics.
3. to interpret by the use of a key, as something written in cipher: to decipher a secret message.

No, i haven't done mine yet..i was asking him about where & if he hooked that hose up..i jus went back & looked @ tha pic good & i see he has it tied in..

 

[Rico]

OK, yea, between the filter and the TB but closer to the filter would be fine.

 

[SF9777]

Gotta love the California emissions laws.

This may help.
Reference: Trouble Code Po411 for 06 Pontiac Grand Prix - Engine Fault Codes

There is an electric Air Injection Reaction (AIR) pump motor assembly; that supplies fresh air into the exhaust system. This is to help the catalytic converter to heat up and begin working faster after a cold start.

P0411 sets when the PCM (computer) senses that there is low or no air flow from the pump; after the PCM commands the pump on and the air control solenoid open.
There are 62 steps in the test procedure and the need of a by-directional scan tool, to command the PCM to perform certain functions.
About the only things you can do without the scanner is a visual inspection of the pump and the 50 amp fuse. The AIR pump is located under the hood; left of the starter motor. Check it for cracks, piping that has become disconnected and whether there are signs of it becoming melted. If the solenoid control valve is stuck open; hot exhaust gases will enter and melt the plastic pump.
The 50 amp fuse is in the under hood fuse panel.
It’s a fussy little system and you have to make sure that all the components of the system are functioning properly. If they are not; you'll fix one part like the pump; but if the control solenoid is stuck open; you’ll be replacing the pump again.

Thanks for the info, my bro and will look at that tomorrow. If anything else ill ask on here and thanks again for the link.

I jus replaced my Air Injection Reaction pump cause of that code..why you did tha intake..did & where did you connect tha hose that ran to tha side
of tha air box?

If you look at the pics, BTW ill get more pics uploaded to my profile tomorrow hopefully, i have the black pcv pip with an extra hole on the side and fitted some extra pipes to bend into a good fit to that hose you are talking about. Since we in Cali we need that hose for emissions so its gay. Look at the pic and ill upload more later to that link i gave on here for the spectra cone filter install

 

[Rico]

This is great info for all the AIR guys out there. Poor bast*rds!

 

[SF9777]

Hey ive been looking around the site and they cay the autolite copper plugs are good, are they and any other Alts? Also school me on replacing spark plugs, what do i need and how to do it and what precautions to take so i dont mess anything up. All info and some pics too will be greatly appreciated.

 

[SlowNA06]

Hey ive been looking around the site and they cay the autolite copper plugs are good, are they and any other Alts?

They're great if you like to change your plugs every 15,000 miles, along with the labor time, and extra cost of frequent plug changes (which is twice a year if you drive like me). Otherwise, stick to the iridiums.

Also school me on replacing spark plugs, what do i need and how to do it and what precautions to take so i dont mess anything up. All info and some pics too will be greatly appreciated.

http://www.grandprixforums.net/any-diy-step-step-change-spark-plugs-43156.html

 

[SF9777]

They're great if you like to change your plugs every 15,000 miles, along with the labor time, and extra cost of frequent plug changes (which is twice a year if you drive like me). Otherwise, stick to the iridiums.


http://www.grandprixforums.net/any-diy-step-step-change-spark-plugs-43156.html

Ok so the iridiums will last how long?

Thanks for the link that helped a lot, so just a few more things: i should get a plug that has already been gapped so i dont worry about it right, and which gap should i get?
Also its just simple as taking the wire out, getting a wrench with a socket and feeling for the spark plug and then twisting it out, then take the new one and twist it back in?
Also finally thing im worried about is something about how someone said if you drop some dirt or something into that whole you will F*** up your cylinder or something?

Again thank you for the help this is the first time doing this and we dont want to waste the money for labor when we can do it our selfs.(Thanks to this forum)

 

[KeithGTP03]

Also its just simple as taking the wire out, getting a wrench with a socket and feeling for the spark plug and then twisting it out, then take the new one and twist it back in?
Also finally thing im worried about is something about how someone said if you drop some dirt or something into that whole you will F*** up your cylinder or something?

Yes. Some wires may require some wiggling or pliers on the plugs heat shield before they release. (depends on how long they've been on the current plugs) And if you're really worried about dirt in the cylinders, use some degreaser and hose it off before the spark plug change.

 

[SF9777]

Yes. Some wires may require some wiggling or pliers on the plugs heat shield before they release. (depends on how long they've been on the current plugs) And if you're really worried about dirt in the cylinders, use some degreaser and hose it off before the spark plug change.

Well the plugs where changed like when we brought the car i think, currently at 126k miles and no change.

So like use degreaser on the old spark plug then pull it off or in the hole after taking it off or what?

 

[Rico]

Don't put dgreaser on the hole after the plug has been removed 'cause it'll flush dirt down into the cylinder.

Like Keith said remove the wires then spray some degreaser down where the plug goes into the head...let sit for a while. Take a water hose and flush the area; with hot water preferably. This will remove the dirt that may fall into the cylinder while removing the plugs. I like to then blast the area with air pressure to get rid of any excess water. It should now be safe to change the plugs.

Don't get your wires mixed up!

 

[SlowNA06]

Ok so the iridiums will last how long?

100,000 miles. 4-8 years.

i should get a plug that has already been gapped so i dont worry about it right, and which gap should i get?

Iridiums come pre-gapped with a plastic cover to keep them from getting squished in shipping. Don't gap them.
Coppers will require a gap tool... it's a little $0.99 coin sold next to the register at the auto parts store. Set the gap to 0.60".

Also its just simple as taking the wire out, getting a wrench with a socket and feeling for the spark plug and then twisting it out, then take the new one and twist it back in?

That's the basic idea.

Also finally thing im worried about is something about how someone said if you drop some dirt or something into that whole you will F*** up your cylinder or something?

There really shouldn't be much dirt around that area unless you've been mudding or something. The engine can handle a little dust, so don't lose any sleep over it. ALL engine maintenance is easier if you detail the engine bay first. Plenty of that in the detailing forum.

 

[SF9777]

^^^ Gotcha, ya i was thinking about detailing after doing all that but i guys doing a little in that area should do the trick.

Thanks a lot guys for the help ill ask if i need any more answers other than that we pretty much got it and will do this possibly next week if not the following week when we get money. Again Thanks guys


EDIT:: Forgot to mention that pretty much we should put some degreaser on the new plug, let it dry a little then install it right? Im pretty sure we dont want to put water down that hole when there is no plug or anything in it.

 

[Rico]

Put the degreaser on before removing the old plugs while they're still in the engine...then rinse with water. Twist the old plugs out and put knew ones in.The degreaser will loosen up the dirt that has accumulated around the old plugs from all those years of use and gathering God knows what.

 

[SF9777]

So pull out the wire, put degreaser the the Spark Plug then say like taking a wet towel and cleaning it then pull it out after twisting it and then put the new one on right, and put degreaser on the new plug too? Or could i just clean around that area, then take out the wire, twist out the plug, put degreaser on the new plugs and let it dry or wipe it a little, then put it on? Also this is all for the back since we are doing it blind.