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How to change coolant elbows

I usually put a THIN film or gray RTV around the o-ring on these. It helps keep them from leaking for sure and prevents the upper elbow from leaking. Never had any problems doing it this way and I have done at least 5-6 LIM jobs.
 


I've done hundred or so... literally.

never used rtv, never had a leak. I've had two start leaking after a year or more. ended up being the elbow heated and became a 45* angle instead of 90*
 
BillBoost37 said:
I've done hundred or so... literally.

never used rtv, never had a leak. I've had two start leaking after a year or more. ended up being the elbow heated and became a 45* angle instead of 90*
Click to expand...

That's the problem I have usually seen, and RTV seems to have prevented it. If nothing else, the aluminium elbows will.
 
RTV can't prevent an elbow from warping. I've seen people use a little, a lot and still had problems. The biggest and best things I've found to work are in this thread.

Clean the holes
Lube the holes
Ensure elbows don't have pressure on them

using RTV just means when you swap the next elbow..you need to try and clean that extra crap out.

Aluminum elbow isn't going to provide any better seal (same o-rings), it will..not become a 45* angle though.
 
Hopefully this is an ok place to ask this, but does the tensioner bracket need to come up to change the power steering pump? Reason I ask is that I want to try and re-install the elbows, but I will probably be doing a power steering pump some time down the road. If this must come out I might as well do a little more planning and do them at the same time, but if that can be done with all this in place I will go ahead and attack the elbows now.
 
I suggested it that way the other day to someone. That's how I'd do it. I know the pump would be a pain to try and get out of the wheel well. If you pulled the tensioner bracket, then it would be a walk in the park.
 


I would pull the alt bracket while you are in there like billboost said. You can get the aluminum elbows from your local parts store, but you might want to order them sooner than later because they usually take a day or two to get in. Just add HP to the part number of the plastic elbows i think.

Sent from my Droid
 
what holds the elbow in place? i have to change mine tomorrow, its spraying out coolent at about the bend and showering the tensioner pulley so the belt pops off..
this is my first time switching one of these out so any tips or insight would be tremendously appreciated
 


ok, thats what i thought.. yes its a great write up, its hopefully gonna save my butt and get me to work monday... thanks alot
 
beastin1 said:
what holds the elbow in place?
Click to expand...

Please reread the first post. The pics of the alternator bracket, instructions that include socket size etc...I honestly don't know how to explain it easier. I'm pretty sure my 17 year old neighbor kid could swap these on her own.
 
I am tearing into this now and have another question. Are all 4 ends and o-rings the same? In other words, does it matter which elbow goes in which location, and which end goes where? I am thinking they are all the same, but if there are any differences, perhaps that is where I went wrong.
 


Are the engine holes supposed to have a stop ledge in them? because my 2000 Bonneville the holes feel completely smooth and have no stop ledge, they just go in and then drop off...?
 
Yep, u can litterally ibly put it in so far because its a 90.. If u tried to slide it in w out it being in the alt bracket, it would go all the way I
 
It's a 90...it can't go in past the bend.

You guys may be taking the worlds easiest part to replace and making it seem way harder. Way way harder.
 
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