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How to: '00-'03 Grand Prix standalone transmission fluid cooler

They've been using them for more than 20 years they are old tech and I have removed several of them from cars coming down from the north because it's too hot here to need them. I guess if you worry about that you could always put in a flowmeter.

Jeff
 


I drive mostly short distances so the sooner I get it up to temperature, the better. Just something I was gonna tinker around with.
 
Get one they work just fine from what the guys used to tell me, but they would come into our shop and talk about overheating so I would just remove them and use a coupler to join each of the connections and hand it back to them in case they moved back up to the great white north. I drove my Diablo up to Breckenridge, Co. one time and just made a cardboard cover to go over the trans cooler since it was in series with the factory one and I had a 3 core radiator to keep the trans temp in the 180's. First time I ever had to make a jet and rod change in order to keep the car running decent lol. Going from 43' above sea level to over 11,000 makes a slight change in jetting on carburetors, lol.

Jeff
 
Yea, thanks for the wonderful contribution to this thread. They do work, people use the all the time in offroading rigs and have for years.
 
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buford1972 said:
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You did crack before you posted..... tell us something we didn't already know.
 


Well I drove mine today with the same cooler I have mine going from trans to radiator(I live in Ohio so it gets in the negatives in the winter hence radiator ) to cooler then back to trans
Normally it's 190-204* on this route in the summer depending on tempture outside. Today it only hit 162*

Oh and I have 180* thermostat

Did my post confuse you? BLAME AUTOCORRECT!
 
Cool. Thanks. I am considering cutting the lines closer to the radiator, so I won't need to worry about the check valve.
 


I guess my 6000 GMR trans went because of limited flow. So anything that could cause flow issues worries me. I thoguht they stopped flow until.it was warm I was like dafaq. But I was wrong

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
 
Just an FYI, not all years have the external anti drain back check ball in the fitting. If your trans does not have the check ball in the fitting then it is located in the channel plate. If someone was rebuilding a trans or had the channel plate off for another reason they could add the internal anti drain back check ball, spring, and seat very easily. Just make sure to swap out the external fitting with the ball for a non check ball style if you add one to the channel plate.... it is recommended not to have both. The only real benefit of doing this is so you can connect -AN fittings and custom lines or hoses directly to your case. My TEP rebuild kit had instructions on what to do for this mod. Also, I have found several different cooler line fittings and not all of them interchange depending on the year of the transmission case you have. There are four push-to-connect styles... out of those four, there are two that have the check ball and two that do not. Out of each of those two you have two thread diameter choices. There are also four flared style fittings that are like the push-to-connect style. i.e two with a check and two without and also two different sizes that screw into the trans.
 
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ADecker said:
I ran the hot fluid into the cooler, then into the stock cooler then into the trans
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Booba5185 said:
From what I've read, that's backwards. You are reheating the fluid at that point. It should go Trans->stock cooler->external cooler->Trans. That way the coolest fluid goes back into the transmission.
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I've been doing a lot of research on this topic. I found this info and thought it might be usefull......

"Because heat always seeks to flow from the hotter to cooler surface, on a street car we can help stabilize both trans and engine temps by referencing one fluid to the other: Retain the original in-radiator trans cooler in addition to using an auxiliary cooler. In this scenario, whichever substance is hotter (the trans fluid or the engine coolant) will transfer some of its heat to the cooler medium. The trans usually heats up faster than the engine. So, if driving in severely cold weather, to speed engine warm-up, consider running the trans fluid out of the trans, into the engine radiator’s internal trans cooler, out of the internal trans cooler to the external auxiliary cooler, and back to the trans. In the event the engine gets hot before the trans, plumb the trans first to the external cooler and then into the radiator cooler. And if you drive only in warm summer months and find that both engine and trans temperatures are on the edge, plumb the radiator and trans cooler separately and in parallel.

Full article here: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/additional-how-to/hrdp-1110-technical-questions-and-answers/
 
I was very curious on the matter as well, so I installed a 9C1 cooler that has the 9C1 cooler before the radiator cooler. I haven't driven it very far or very long as of yet to see how much hotter (if at all) it gets, but I have noticed on the short trips I drive it on the transmission gets warmer a lot faster. We'll just have to see how it does on longer trips whenever I take one lol.
 


Because I can't get the pic link to function properly. And BTW that sticky for how to post pics is fuggin worthless. What an ahole to think that explains anything useful. Out of the 10 or so forums I belong to this is the only one where I am apparently retarded enough that I can't figure out how to use pictures.
 
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