basshead42
New member
Anybody know of a safe level the 3800 engine can handle with nitrous? I have a buddy abd he has a 99 Z28 and hes been running a 175 shot with stock heads, pistons, and crank with no problems. Also shoud i go wet or dry?
How much nitrous can be ran?
- Thread starter basshead42
- Start date
superv6
New member
Well anymore engines r built pretty decent from the factory. Hypereutectic pistons, tough rods and cranks and besides ls1s are all alluminum so that helps. A guy I know has a stock 05 stang and he's runnin sometimes as much as a 125 shot just to b safe. I'm not sure about our cars but I bet they could handle it. I'm kinda curious too. Cheap upgrade. Also I've heard someguys choose meth injection over nitrous oxide
blueguy
The Blue One
Not really...Meth is nothing compared to the spray...in fact...nothing is really...except a sh*tton of boost. Meth just cools the intake charge and nitrous creates a bigger explosion...which = more hp at the push of a button. I've heard these motors will take 50-100hp shots all day long...but eventually...just like any car...it'll burn up piston rings if you spray enough IMO.
minichopper6hp
Banned - Busted For Scamming
hypereutectic pistons suck, its there way of making a piston cheap and quickly, nothing strong about them.
blowfishRus6
New member
you need to tune for the spray. if your spraying alot you need to retard timing. guys that spray alot say even a 50 shot needs to be tuned to get full advantage. they have been people to spray up to 190 shot or so.
T
TDCRacing
Guest
Yep.
SlowRR
New member
go with a wet kit because then you dont have to worry about adding fuel to your tune because with a wet kit it adds fuel with the nitrous were as a dry kit is just nitrous. and id think you would be safe with 100shot. a friend of mine was spraying 250 into a avenger for a whole season with no problems with a wet kit and droped back his timing. do you have a gtp or a gt, without boost you might be safe with 150.
GR8racingfool
New member
Stock L67, no more than a 75 shot, wet or dry.
It can take more, but you WILL loose the tops of your pistons a some point.
Reason being:
These engines are made to be fuel efficient, not to handle nitrous at the drag strip.
The piston ring gap is very tight when the engine reaches operating temperatures, this is why they did this, so they are efficient and meet and exceed EPA guidelines.
You can run nitrous, safely. Wet or dry. (I run dry)
50 shot you can hardly feel, 75 will tuck you back in the seat a little more.
Adding nitrous is like adding fuel to the fire, the engine will run hotter, heat makes parts expand, the piston rings expand past their limit, and pop goes the top of your piston(s).
When I built my engine, I built it to run on a VERY healthy shot of nitrous. Increasing the ring gap, to choosing the right cam all played a role. My limitation is the heads, as too much boost, and N2O, they will "float" and then I will start loosing head gaskets. Not enough "clamping force" on these heads to the block like other engines have.
~F~
It can take more, but you WILL loose the tops of your pistons a some point.
Reason being:
These engines are made to be fuel efficient, not to handle nitrous at the drag strip.
The piston ring gap is very tight when the engine reaches operating temperatures, this is why they did this, so they are efficient and meet and exceed EPA guidelines.
You can run nitrous, safely. Wet or dry. (I run dry)
50 shot you can hardly feel, 75 will tuck you back in the seat a little more.
Adding nitrous is like adding fuel to the fire, the engine will run hotter, heat makes parts expand, the piston rings expand past their limit, and pop goes the top of your piston(s).
When I built my engine, I built it to run on a VERY healthy shot of nitrous. Increasing the ring gap, to choosing the right cam all played a role. My limitation is the heads, as too much boost, and N2O, they will "float" and then I will start loosing head gaskets. Not enough "clamping force" on these heads to the block like other engines have.
~F~