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Horrible coolant leak

shadegt said:
So, the going price is 600 just to replace the gasket, is it me or is that ridiculously high?

Anyone want to tell me if I can do it without taking the engine out?

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Well I haven't done one, but from what I've seen, all the pulleys covering the cover have to come off and maybe the pump they drive. It's not gonna be a 3 hour job. You'll probably be car-less for a day or two. $600 sounds fairly reasonable.
 
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I was quoted the same for my 83 caddy with a complete timing chain ad distributor install. My 83 is 10x worse imo and it only took 5 hrs so.... I'm sure I can do this in a day no problem.

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Can anyone give a a rough step by step on what to do and give me an idea on how to get that harmonic balancer back on?

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put it on the crank, then turn it till it drops on further a 1/2 inch or so. you now know the key way is lined up.

now put the bolt in and send it home.
 
hand thread the bolt, then tighten it with a air gun or a larger socket.

if using hand tools to need to vice grip the flex plate so the engine dont spin on you when you crank the balancer back on.


no hammer is used lol
 


Awesome, the rest of the pulleys come of via bolts correct? Anything time consuming?

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Ok, I have everything apart finally. One question though, how do I remove the black gasket/rubber ring that goes around the crank but sits in the cover? Oh, and what rtv to use on the cover gasket?

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the black shield pops off, just pull at each of the 3 spots its held on to the bolt/studs.

then unbolt the cover.

i used orange but copper works or red will also work.

put a thin smear 2 inches up on the block from the oil pan, then put the gasket on, then smear rtv on the gasket facing out or the cover and lay it on.

you'll also want to rtv the pan gasket there before the cover goes on.
 


ScottyDoggs said:
the black shield pops off, just pull at each of the 3 spots its held on to the bolt/studs.

then unbolt the cover.

i used orange but copper works or red will also work.

put a thin smear 2 inches up on the block from the oil pan, then put the gasket on, then smear rtv on the gasket facing out or the cover and lay it on.

you'll also want to rtv the pan gasket there before the cover goes on.
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Sounded like he was talking about the crank seal in the timing cover to me.
 
I've found in most cases it's best to leave the old crank seal in. The balancer snount often gets a groove in it that has "Mated" to the old crank seal.
Replacing crank seal without replacing with a new balancer or doing a sleeve kit on balancer will often resullt in an oil leak.
 


231FUN said:
I've found in most cases it's best to leave the old crank seal in. The balancer snount often gets a groove in it that has "Mated" to the old crank seal.
Replacing crank seal without replacing with a new balancer or doing a sleeve kit on balancer will often resullt in an oil leak.
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i lived this whole statement lol
 
231FUN said:
I've found in most cases it's best to leave the old crank seal in. The balancer snount often gets a groove in it that has "Mated" to the old crank seal.
Replacing crank seal without replacing with a new balancer or doing a sleeve kit on balancer will often resullt in an oil leak.
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This!

I changed it thinking hey why not since I'm in here already, when my old seal was fine. Only for the new one to leak. Then had to go back and get another deal and sleeve.


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re seat what? dont touch the seal if thats what you mean.

if you took it out, just hammer the new one back in the cover. much easier to do cover off the car.
 
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