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Hippo's Audio Build Help

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SeanGTP said:
You're going to want to consider a big 3 now. You should've have too many problems, but a Big 3 is going to immediately eliminate any power draw issues you'll probably begin to experience.
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A proper ground will alleviate any issues he may or may not have. If he gets dimming lights then he needs better/more contact at his grounding point. Possibly a better ground location even
 


chamilton89 said:
Your only amplifying the front now along with your subs? What about the rears? Also, installation just got a bit more involved with a two amplifier setup. Going to need a distribution block for your ground and power, 2 more sets of rcas for your right and left full range inputs, find a place to mount both of them, and then run new speaker wire from your two channel amplifier to your new front door speakers. Let us know if you need any more help with this larger burdon.
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Who cares about the rear? :) It's like dueling banjos!! Run them off the head unit?
 
Hippo Machine said:
Thanks for answering the question. I didn't want to do the 4 channel amp cuz I got a good deal on a 2-channel. BUT I can return it if you really think it will make the install alot easier. LET ME KNOW what you think.

Looking at 4-channel amplifiers, I found this one Pioneer GM-D9500F 4-channel car amplifier — 75 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield.com it's a little bit lower power than I would like for the 6x9's but it should be okay.
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Having done quite a few installs, I would, without a doubt lOok at getting one amplifier to replace all three. There is no reason, unless you need the increased power output to have multiple amplifiers where one would surfice. I would look into a 5 channel amplifier to drive your entire system. It's so much easier installation wise, and cheaper. Save yourself the time and money and get a good 5 channel amp, or, if you must, two amplifiers but three just seems silly.
 
There's a few reasons you run multi channel amps and I don't think they apply here.

1) Channel separation. It doesn't matter who made what, there's cross talk inside an amplifier. Best way to get rid of that is a separate power supply/separate amp.
2) Redundancy so that in case of failure you aren't replacing one extremely expensive amp; only "part" of the system
3) Power requirements. I don't really want to explain...so here's one word; transient.

I highly doubt your install takes any of these into account. I'd say 2 amps can be efficient and 3 amps starts some head scratching
 


I was pretty impressed with those boston amps. I never had one come back blown after an install. It doesnt say at what ohm the sub needs to run at for 250w rms. I'll look into it.
 


Doesn't look like I'll find a 5-channel for a reasonable price with enough power for my sub then. Looks like I'll have to go to 2-amp set up, just a mono for now.
 


Well that's the thing, it doesnt say if its 600W rms at 1ohm or at 4ohm.

EDIT: Scratch that, I forgot we are talking about subs, not amps. Its gonna require 600w rms no matter what impedance you run it at. I would get the amp you want, then match the sub to that amp.
 
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I think I will do it, because it will save me a lot of money and pain when wiring. Also 250w RMS is probably plenty of power for me.
 
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