Hippo Machine
Because Wet Leaves
Or is there a better solution to the flimsy terminal cup
Hippo's Audio Build Help
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SeanGTP
New member
Drill holes exactly the size you need in the box, run wire through, after they're connected to the subs pull them through until they're about as tensed as possible, then slack up on them a little. After that maybe a bit of silicon around the edges of the holes for added security.
Hippo Machine
Because Wet Leaves
Im just going to be running the positive and negative speaker wires through there right?
Hippo Machine
Because Wet Leaves
Also should I wire it at 1 ohm if the amp I get can handle it?
I800C0LLECT
Audio Moderator
I800C0LLECT
Audio Moderator
Hippo Machine
Because Wet Leaves
Thanks. But what are your thoughts on putting the tweeters in the box too?
KeithGTP03
GTP Level Member
You dont want to put the tweeters in the sub box. 1. The box will be in your trunk, not gonna get much results from a tweeter in the trunk. 2. If you cut holes to mount the tweets in the box, you are breaking your seal on your box and the air pushed from the woofer will flow through the tweets. For placement, you could mount them in your rear deck (next to the 6x9's). Then you wont have to fabricate anything, just drill two holes through the deck lid and mount.
Hippo Machine
Because Wet Leaves
The tweeters wouldn't cause any seal issues.. They are surrounded by like a big ceramic cone.plus I would seal with that caulk type stuff also. I dont knew about the rear deck..,i already have six by nines and for objets back there, but I could do it if you don't think it will cause phase issues our anything.
Hippo Machine
Because Wet Leaves
I think I could still hear them if they are in the trunk because they are supposedly xtremely loud, even were toout an amp. What if I were to close them off from the pursue of the sub, by enclosing them inside the sub enclosure? Get what I'm saying. I think they would be overpowering in the cabin.. Plus this sounda like a cool little experiment 
. Lmk what you think.
. Lmk what you think.
dpzelenak
New member
itll add more if your trying to play music out the trunk, like tailgating but from the drivers seat i just think that theyll sound muffled and almost hollow sounding, know what i mean by that?
like there's noise trapped inside something and cant get out so the sound isnt expanding like it should and its just bouncing off the trunk walls
like there's noise trapped inside something and cant get out so the sound isnt expanding like it should and its just bouncing off the trunk walls
I800C0LLECT
Audio Moderator
big thumbs down
Hippo Machine
Because Wet Leaves
I want to do a experiment. I'm gonna make two tiny enclosures for the tweeters to keep the pressure of the sub away from them, then mount them in the subwoofer enclosure. Maybe I can do something where I can unplug them if they sound bad or if I just want them on with the trunk open. Good thing I took geometry!!
Ik most of you will disapprove but I want to try it out.
Oh and I'm home and checked out the tweeters..."f*cking huge.
KeithGTP03
GTP Level Member
Do your thing. Im telling you, you wont even hear them in the trunk. The 2000-20,000Hz frequencies arent going to penetrate your seats/rear deck. But I say find out for yourself, this will be a good learning experience for you.
Oh they sure will. Imagine...you have a 1" hole in your tire. You plug that hole with a 1" speaker. You think your tire will hold air? Kind of a dramatic example, but speakers are designed to let air through.
Hippo Machine
Because Wet Leaves
Right I didn't understand what you meant at first, I will enclose the tweeters to prevent this.
Hippo Machine
Because Wet Leaves
Started doing the calculations, 10x14x18 is too small, because I want to do a 1.5" thick face, so its only .92 cu. ft. without considering dispalcement. Thinking probably 10x14x20, but still have to do all of the calculations.
KeithGTP03
GTP Level Member
What driver are you getting that would need a 1.5" facia board?
Hippo Machine
Because Wet Leaves
I found this on crutchfield, thought might as well (especially with the tweeters lol):
"
"
If you choose to use a double-thickness of MDF for the front panel (this method is recommended — it provides an extremely strong, non-resonant mounting surface for the sub), fasten the two identical front pieces together using plenty of carpenter's glue and several sheet metal screws. Also, the double thickness will serve to strengthen the box as a whole.
(If you don't use a double thickness of MDF for the mounting surface, you should definitely plan to use bracing elsewhere in the box for added strength. In fact, it's never a bad idea to use bracing no matter what, especially if your box is larger than a cubic foot. The box will be subjected to extreme internal pressure, so the stronger it is, the better. The easiest way to add bracing is with 2"x2" strips of lumber. Glue and screw these along at least two of your box's internal seams before attaching the top and bottom.)"
(If you don't use a double thickness of MDF for the mounting surface, you should definitely plan to use bracing elsewhere in the box for added strength. In fact, it's never a bad idea to use bracing no matter what, especially if your box is larger than a cubic foot. The box will be subjected to extreme internal pressure, so the stronger it is, the better. The easiest way to add bracing is with 2"x2" strips of lumber. Glue and screw these along at least two of your box's internal seams before attaching the top and bottom.)"
SeanGTP
New member
I DID give you a link where you can enter ALL those dimensions as well as board thickness to determine volume in a snap. Then every time you're thinking it's still off, you only have to change whatever field you feel you want to change. You could already have your box size figured out by now. Not that the equations are hard, they're extremely easy, but it saves you some time.
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