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Hippo's Audio Build Help

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I800C0LLECT said:
Honestly....seal the doors with dynamat/sound deadener/second skin/raamat...whatever product you choose. Next, don't use the stock tweeter and see if you like it, then use the stock tweeter and see if you like it. I have a feeling it might sound better without it. Once you seal up those doors, put a layer of ensolite between the door skin and panel. When replacing the mid...make a pancake out of duct seal right behind it making sure to put as many non symetrical shapes as you can on the surface.
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I have the tweeter unplugged currently and it sounds fine, just lowers the sound stage a bit. Do you know any 6 ohm tweeters that I should get?

As for the dynamat, I have 2 10" sheets, where is the best place to put them that is easyy?
 


Inside the doors, right behind the speakers... on the outer door skin. If you want to take it further, get some more deadening and do the outer door skin, and then use some sort of material (whatever you choose) and cover up the big holes you see in the door when the panel is off. Some people use deadening material, which will be a PITA to ever work on again in the future lol... plexiglass works well too. Perhaps thin wood would as well, as the piece needed wouldn't be very large at all.
 


I love the hate about the 6x9s. I have a set of Rockford Fosgate 6x9s in my other car that I am fixing to put in my Grand Prix that are so bass heavy that they rattle the entire car.
 
Are they powered on stock power too? :P

For clarification, shaking the whole car is a little different from having a bunch of broken panels that rattle with even slightly heavy sound waves.
It's okay, I used to have one of those Sony XPLOD subs and used to think that was badass.
 


It doesn't rattle the panels. They are quite clear with almost no distortion but with the after market stereo I had in my Hyundai Sonata with them it rattled the car. My car was quite well stuck together. If they were on nothing rattled at all but if I turned on a bass heavy song then the mirrors started the rattle and I can feel the vibrations. Not the same effect in my Grand Prix with them but the front speakers don't work and the stock radio is fixing to die.
 
I see. In any case, very few of us "hate" on 6x9s. I prefer to have rear fill. However, a rather violent substage with the driver firing upwards tends to interfere with them a bit lol. They don't like being pushed around...
 
I can understand that but when I go for stereos and speakers I don't want to much bass. That may sound like blasphemy but I like a lot of clarity to really listen to my music. I found a good set a speakers that give me the clarity I want but the powerful bass that doesn't distort the music.
 


Preloaded sub enclosures like that typically suck, that particular one I've seen everywhere and I hear they burn up fast.

If you want cheap, effective, bang-for-you-buck, get some Kicker Comp 12s or 10s, 10C104 or 10C124, both can be had for around $50 a pop. Have a friend build you a decent box tuned around 32hz or so, and drop in a D-Class amp. This is the one I'm running, just as an example: Amazon.com: Hifonics Hfi1000.1d 1000w Rms, Class D Monoblock HFI Series Amplifier: Car Electronics

Capacitors are useless, do a big 3 upgrade. And for a wiring kit, get something from knukonceptz, cheapest high-quality stuff for the most part. If you're going to do it, do it right the first time.

At the end of the day, you'll have a similar amount invested as the stuff you linked, and better louder subs.
 
I would steer clear of a prefab bandpass enclosure. The bandwidth on them are pretty narrow (unless built perfectly) and you'll be missing the deep bass and the high bass. I would stick with a sealed or ported enclosure. And as for the tweeters, they are NOT Lanzars. They are Pyramid tweeters. The mounting depth on them is 2.25". 1. They're crap. 2. They will sound like you stuck a normal tweeter in a tin can.
 
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The numbers on those tweets is ridiculous too. 350 watt RMS? For tweets? The subs I told you about are 300 PEAK...

Edit: But that's pyramid for ya, I used to have a 1000w Pyramid amp... lol. It put out like 100w or so.
Regardless, I'd be those tweets CAN take 350 RMS, and without 350 RMS they won't be loud at all anyway. Speakers aren't about handling, it's about efficiency. I can go grab some raw materials and make a 2000w rms sub, but it might only be as loud as one of the 150RMS subs I mentioned...
 
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