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Help with dropping the cradle

N

nlinesk8s

New member
I posted on a couple of older threads, but haven't heard anything, so here goes:

1999 with the 3.8l: I've got my engine properly supported with support bars, and I've disconnected the steering from the hubs. This may sound like a stupid question, but neither my Haynes manual or the instructions I've read on another thread mention disconnecting the strut from the hubs. Maybe it's too obvious to mention, but as a newbie at front wheel drive cars, I'd rather ask the stupid questions than do unnecessary work. It looks like the suspension comes down with the cradle, and I need to disconnect at the hub.

(part of the reason I ask this is that I had a shop take out the old tranny before they tried to pull some fast ones, and I got the car back to do an install myself. The shop didn't touch the hub connection or strut connections on top, but they doubtless have equipment I don't)

Without the struts disconnected, won't they try to hold the cradle in place? Am I missing something here, or is Haynes? thanks.

If someone would be willing to communicate directly and answer some questions about dropping the cradle, I'd be grateful. Email is [email protected].

regards, Sean
 


When I dropped my cradle, I disconnected the struts from the upper strut mounts. If you don't disconnect them somehow, they will hold your cradle from dropping. The other alternative would be to unbolt your LCA's.
 
All you have to do is remove the ball joint nut which is just below where the cv shaft goes into the wheel bearing in the knuckle. You will need a spreader fork and hammer to crack loose the ball joint and something to pry down the control arms so you can swing the knuckle out of the way. Leave the strut and tie rods connected to the knuckle, no reason to remove them just leave it all attached and pull them out of the way when you need.
 
Trannyman95 said:
All you have to do is remove the ball joint nut which is just below where the cv shaft goes into the wheel bearing in the knuckle. You will need a spreader fork and hammer to crack loose the ball joint and something to pry down the control arms so you can swing the knuckle out of the way. Leave the strut and tie rods connected to the knuckle, no reason to remove them just leave it all attached and pull them out of the way when you need.
Click to expand...

This is by far the easiest and fastest way to do this. Just be careful that you don't damage the ball joint grease boot. But they are cheap.
 
Disconnecting the nut below the bearing would have been easier (whoops), but I disconnected the struts and removed the whole cradle, with hubs and struts. At least I have a lot of room to work now <g>.

As I don't have a professional lift, to lower the cradle/suspension I used four jackstands, and alternated a jack front and back while ratcheting down the stands. Slow, but it allowed me to check for things not disconnected as I went.

...Like my bottom engine mount, which the $%*& shop didn't disconnect, and which is destroyed. At least it's fairly cheap to replace.

Okay, a question: Just how do I get the tranny back in place? I'm thinking of using a 1 1/2" inch thick board, with four jackstands, and alternating a jack from end to end, to slowly get the tranny back up. Finding the center of gravity and hoping it's stable with a single jack underneath looks like a recipe for an emergency room visit. Anyone have a better idea or past experience to share? thanks.
 
You can take a floor jack and screw a piece or two of plywood about 12" x 18" to the swivel plate on top. It works just fine and then you have wheels to roll it around on. This is what I have used for years, its cheap and it works just fine. There are specific transmission jacks out there but good ones are very expensive and many dont drop down very low so it makes it difficult to roll out from under a car unless it is up pretty high.
 


Just found out my cradle has a crack. When I go to fix it, I'm going to put the car on a chassis lift, lower it until the cradle is resting on four jack stands, unbolt everything, then lift the car off the cradle.

All I need is some engine supports. Suggestions?
 
Well, I've got my transmission attached again, so I'll proceed to putting the cradle back. 18mm screw heads for the transmission and cradle bolts? In all my years of working on cars I've never used an 18; most tool kits jump from 17 to 19.

Also, the a** bolt. I left it out. There was no way I was going to remove the exhaust just for a chance at getting at that bolt.

I have a question tho'. As I just got a box of parts back from the same shop I retrieved my car from, there's one or two things I don't recognize. There are a couple of plastic bushings with slightly flanged ends. These might go to the swaybar link connection (which the shop removed), but I'm not sure.

Also, do I need to loctite the flywheel to torque converter screws?

thanks,

Sean
 
To install the rear bellhousing bolt a long extension will get it in. I use an impact extension from SnapOn and is about 3' long though shorter will work and I DO suggest putting this bolt in because the 3800 blocks dont use the bolt directly above it so you dont have much support on the back side. You should use loctite on the converter bolts and Blue or medium strenght works fine. 18mm is the correct size socket for the bellhousing and cradle bolts. You can pretty much count on most all newer GM cars to use a 8,10,13,15,18mm socket at one time or another. The plastic bushings you mentioned are likely just retainer bushings to hold the cradle bolts in the cradle for assembly. Sometimes they do their job, often the bolts just fall back out but when you are ready to put the cradle back up you can insert the bolts and push the bushing down on the top side to hold the bolts from falling back out. There may only be two of these bushings as I typically only see them on the front two bolts.
 
Thanks! I have a long extension. I'll give it a shot.

regards,

Sean.

p.s. I broke the shifter cable at the bracket by being clumsy. Happen to know where I could get new?
 
trannyman, thanks for the encouragement to get that final bolt in! I have a long extension and finally got it in.

Now that about everything is back together, how much fluid should I put in to start? The manual says 7qt capacity, but after five its way above the full level, FWIW.

thanks.
 


If it's a dry transmission it needs about 12 qts. If it only had the pan dropped it only needs just under 8 qts.

Make sure you're checking the level properly (engine warmed and running, and after pulling the shifter slowly through all gears).
 
Are you sure? The Haynes I have lists the fluid capacity at 7 quarts. The transmission is from a salvage yard; I presume it was basically dry, as it had no plugs in the fluid ports. I don't know how much fluid might be retained in the transmission cooler loop, but not much came out when I unplugged the tube ends to put them in the transmission.

At this point the fluid is well above the "add" line on the dipstick. I'll check it as soon as the car is started, but I just want to avoid adding too little.
 
Yes, I'm 100% sure a dry transmission takes 12 quarts. A transmission that only had the pan dropped takes just under 8 quarts. If you're not checking it warmed up with the engine running, then it's going to read way high since all the fluid is down in the pan instead of up in the transmission. If I check mine cold and the engine off it's way over the full line, but once started and warmed up it's right where it should be.
 
Thanks! Just had to be sure. I've put 5 quarts of fluid in. I'm assuming that there's still fluid in the cooling loop, as it did leak when the lines were unplugged; it just wasn't gushing out though.

I'll start the car to get things circulating, then check the fluid asap.
 


this is from ALLDATA

pan removal - 7.4 qts.

overhaul - 10 qts.

dry - 13.4 qts.

dont forget to cycle through all the gears first and then check level in park and warm
 
right you are! After adding, waiting, checking, adding....the total was right at 10 quarts. There must have been some fluid still in the tranny and cooling loop.

Here's a question: As I got this tranny from a breaking yard (cherry auto in Cleveland), should I go ahead and get the filter replaced?
 
I went to Jiffylube, was quoted $139 if I provided the filter, went to Autozone for a filter and gasket, and did it myself. Messy, but worth it for $100 in my pocket. It is SO nice to finally not hear whining and gears jamming.
 
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