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Help with building a sub box

dagger

New member
Well I'm looking to replace my subs and while I'm doing this I'm going to build a new sub box and plan on making a pretty nice one this time around. What I'd like to do is build a box thats ported and then take some kind of flat board and put it across the whole front to take up all the edges around the box to the car. That way it looks clean and sealed. It will look kind of like this:

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Now I had a sealed box before but this I'm I'd like to go with a ported box instead. I don't quite understand how to tune the box to my liking though and am having a hard time with how long the port length should be and everything. I've done the calculations and such and they all seem to come out around the same but I still don't understand what I'm doing. My design plan was to use a slot style port in the middle of the 2 subs. I wanted the box to be about 2 feet cub for each sub. Can anyone give me a hand with how to handle this. I don't understand what frequency to tune to and such. I listen to all sorts of music.

i've been using this site: Subwoofer Enclosure Calculators, Fraction to Decimal, Parallel, Series, Port Length and Volume Calculators to do the calculations and gather most of my info from.
 


If I was you i'd stay away from kicker subs, I've had nothing but bad luck with them. Go with like an fi q 15" or a mach 5 sub and call it a day.
 
If I was you i'd stay away from kicker subs, I've had nothing but bad luck with them. Go with like an fi q 15" or a mach 5 sub and call it a day.

I have 2 kicker 10's right now. One went bad but had lasted like 2 or 3 years now. I like the subs honestly and haven't had an issue with them. Do you have links to the ones you mentioned?
 


good observations, any idea what is wrong with that kicker sub that i posted the link to?
 


Not a fan of the BTL's?

Its obv the coil, just a question of did you give it too much power and it separated or did it hit something then separate.
 
They were broken in on a bench to kicker's specs and everything, They never would have gotten more than 2000 watts between 2 of them for a short time. There is 2 of them that do the exact same thing, i'll get a vid of it playing today for ya.
 
When looking at a BTL in a ported box, its wAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY too peaky for my tastes so i cant imagine the ones that are louder.

to reiterate: dont build your box like that, you'd basically be building a terrible bandpass enclosure.
 


I already have my kenwood amp and I love that thing. Its plenty good enough for me and puts out plenty of power. I liked my kicker subs but wanted to see if anything else was out there better but for my price range its not looking like that. I loved my kickers too. They worked great.
 
I actually had another question as far as the ports on the box. I was thinking about the idea of having the subs face toward the back of the car and having the port right behind the opening in the center of the back seat. I planned on removing the door and just having it open all the time.
 
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