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HELP! Really put myself into a pickle (cv axle replacement)

T

Teancum

New member
I should have looked up more on the specs prior to getting started, but I've found that I don't have the right tools (socket size) to get my struts out and remove the cv axle. Being the genius that I am I decided to attack it from the under side, only to have the tie rod end bolt freeze half way through removal. Now I can't get it to go either way. It won't go back in because the knuckle is now loose from the assembly. The rod just spins with the bolt. I've tried using a C clamp to create enough pressure, I've coated it with PB Blaster several times and tapped it to death, but nothing.

I'm working without air tools, but I think if I knew the exact socket sizes to buy for the strut tower I could just go get those and do it that way. The tie rod end I'm less worried about as I can run it down to the shop and have them replace the bolt after I take my wife to her job, but we've only got the one car, so I'm stuck. Help!

What I specifically need is:

*Strut towers - what size sockets/wrenches do I need to pull them without air tools?
*What do I torque them back to?
*Do I need to unbolt anything besides the strut tower to get enough room to free the CV axles? Even if I only get one replaced tonight that's something.

Oh, I got the axle nut loosened with no issues. Guess I should learn from my mistakes--it's time to buy air tools.
 


Won't I have to pull the tie rod in that instance? Also, how do you best recommend going for the ball joint nut? Open ended wrench obviously, but am I gonna need a lot of torque on it?
 
Teancum said:
Won't I have to pull the tie rod in that instance? Also, how do you best recommend going for the ball joint nut? Open ended wrench obviously, but am I gonna need a lot of torque on it?
Click to expand...

18mm open end, shorter one if you have it. I stuck my lug wrench through the other side of the wrench and used it as some serious leverage and it came off with little effort. You'll probably have more of an issue getting the damn cotter pin out than getting the nut loose. One thing to note is it will hit the hub before coming fully loose, so you need to shock the joint loose, then finish unscrewing the nut all the way.
 
Sounds good. I think I'll get a nut splitter for the tie rod end and just replace it. Anyone know what size nut it uses? Me being the redneck I am I used a 3/4" (that's all I had), but it's metric.

Put the car back together to go buy tools. There's a Menards less than a mile from my home.
 
ball joint nut should just come off, not any tighter than any other bolt. unbolt it, and smack the side, anywhere flat next to it, to pop the ball joint out of the knuckle. if you use a fork it will tear up the boot on it.

if you still want to try to get the tie rod off, see if you can pound something in between the bolt and the knuckle, (fat screw driver) to tighten the shaft back up, try to un bolt it with what ever you jammed in there still there. ( PRYING DOWN OR UP WITH IT WHILE YOU UNBOLT IT)

i just did a axle last weekend, i want to say the struts were 18 mm deep socket, i think i used a 3/4 that fit lose a while back as well. I also removed the whole strut, its just 3 more bolts up top. i popped the tie rod end, had plenty of room. then you have to pop the axle shaft out of the trans, it has a clip inside, a pry bar worked well, with a quick snap of the bar it came out on the 3 rd try.

the nut on the axle is a 34 or 36 mm as well, remove that with the tire still on the car and on the ground, as the wheel will turn if its in the air, and it will never come off with out air tools in that case. get a 1/2 breaker bar, and a pipe that will fit over it for more leverage.
 


saws all works for cutting off bad bolts to,i cut many bolts off this way, cut it on both side smack the crap out of it, it should come off. then replace the tie rod.
 
get a pry bar and a lighter heat up the tie rod end nut to melt the plastic if it is a stock one and then put the prybar on top of it and under the axle shaft pry down as you tighten it up always works best if u use a impack on it to give it a one good on
 
Teancum said:
Sounds good. I think I'll get a nut splitter for the tie rod end and just replace it. Anyone know what size nut it uses? Me being the redneck I am I used a 3/4" (that's all I had), but it's metric.

Put the car back together to go buy tools. There's a Menards less than a mile from my home.
Click to expand...
I want to say thats an 18mm as well, but you will need deep socket or open end
 
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