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help! hard start after overkill pcm install

HighOctaneRacing

HighOctaneRacing

New member
Alright guys I installed the overkill pcm and followed all the instructions Will sent. The car drives and shifts so good but I'm having an issue with the car hard starting every time and this did not happen before the pcm swap. I did remote start it after I manually started the car a few times and the remote start is normal. The weather here is 51 degrees so it warm for Massachusetts today. Any help would be appreciated
 


It might still be learnng. Give it a few days and see if it gets better. I really have no idea though and hopefully someone else will have a better answer.
 
My overkill PCM did that for the first few starts. Thought something was wrong. Left the battery unhooked for 30mins or so, and left the key on (to drain any residual power) Hooked it back up and same thing. After a good "spirited" drive (10-15 minutes) it never had that hard starting again. It actually started much faster than normal (though Will states he has his PCMs setup for his 'quick start')
 
every time i un hook my battery long enough to clear a code say, the pcm needs to re learn. the first start the engine will crank like 3 times before it fires up. never did it more then once tho. same with the tranny, its learning how you drive. it may shift hard or firmer then you like for a day or two.

new pcm, id think its still learning.
 


I didn't mention that I put the ZZP alternator power cable on as well but I put that on after the first time I started the vehicle. I don't think the cable is the culprit due to it hard starting before I installed it
 
Took the car out for another spin and it started perfectly 3 times in a row. You guys were right about the pcm still learning. thanks

I'm gonna jack my own thread here lol. I know the ZZP alternator rewire is supposed to boost the voltage but is it ok for the car to be running at 15 - 15.10 volts while driving? Normally the car runs at 14 - 14.5 volts
 
Honestly I've had terrible luck with ZZP booster draining the hell out of my battery I removed it and problem free my car stays around 14.5 volts or so
 
Yea I thought about removing it but I put it on because I had it for my '97 and it was just sittin there. The windows seem a little slower now too. I'll think about it lol
 
Strange. I've had 2 of them, one on my old GTP one on my current.

Had nothing but good luck with them. Constant 15.1V -15.2V Windows went up more quickly, and the lights didn't fade when you'd open/close the windows at night. Though doing the Big 3 helped a bunch too.
 


For 99% of cars it's all the same.

Run new power wire from Alt to fusebox, and fusebox to battery.
Run new battery ground to chassis
Run new engine ground to chassis

I did mine with 4gauge. I wouldn't go any smaller. Though you can go as big as you want.
 
Not to thread jack but wouldn't you want to run fuses between alt and batt. Or from alt to fuse then one from fuse to batt?

Sent from my Galaxy Tab 3
 


Iv always been told at least from batt to whereever fuse box or alt you want a fuse for if something shorts.

Sent from my Galaxy Tab 3
 
Yep, best to run a fuse between the alt and the battery/fuse box. If the alt starts to over-charge it'll save your electrical system. I wanna say I have a 140amp fuse in mine, but I could be wrong.
 
cant see why it would matter, the factory lines are not fused at all. its just cables. so you are only putting thicker cable in place of the stock cables.
 
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