• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Hello!





I've got lots of pics but the files are to big to post so i gotta take some that will fit. What kind of audio system you running in your GP? If you don't mind me asking.
 
Its a sony deck and then Kenwood 6x9s in the rear and Kenwood 5 1/4 in the doors. Pulled the stock tweeters out. I just got a 10in Pioneer sub with box and with a 400watt 4 channel amp and wiring. If you want me to find out the exact numbers for the deck and speakers I can try to locate them.
 
You don't have to i was just wondering. I got a Alpine deck Kenwood 3-way 6 1/2 in the front with the stock tweeters, Pioneer 3-way 6x9 in the rear with a Kenwood 600 watt 4-ch, a Kenwood 1000 watt 2-ch bridged with 2 12" Kenwood subwoofers, a 2 farad Sound Quest capacitor, The Big 3 upgrade wiring to stop dimming headlights and IP lights.
 
Nice. I dont know jack about subs. lol. I just kind of ended up with it for a good price so Im not gonna complain. haha
 


Nice. I dont know jack about subs. lol. I just kind of ended up with it for a good price so Im not gonna complain. haha

I feel it. Basically what I learned is the less Ohms the less resistance for speakers/subs, like a shake with a small straw VS a shake with a big straw (more flow), the amp has to be the same Ohms or Ohms capable as the speakers/subs your using, now RMS is continuous wattage you want your speakers/subs to be a little higher (I do about 100 to 200 watts or so) then your amp RMS so you don't blow the speakers. Just to let you know for the future.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top