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Header install question almost done!

h0wl0ngcanitbe

h0wl0ngcanitbe

Lifer
So I got the old manifold out whew that was a trek!

Im ready to start reassembling everything with the new ZZP headers. My question is where should I apply RTV? On all surfaces that touch the block? Or just on the gaskets?

Any last minute tips before I tackle this install??

Of coarse gotta give ya guys something!!
 


No rtv on the gaskets, just re-use the factory gaskets.

You can put a small bead around the 1 slip fit joint on those headers and then a band clamp. The 1 v-band clamp for the downpipe needs nothing either.
 
One last question, what if I cant get the header studs out? Ive stripped x2 5.5mm sockets trying to get #2 out on the front side. The first one came out easy enough but im afraid of screwing up these studs. Is it the end of the world if I dont free up those gaskets? I know it sounds half assed but again x5.5mm sockets. Tired of goin to the parts store for the same part!
 


Ok so in your guys experience whats the easiest way to get the rear header in? Top side or bottom? And is there a limit to how much i can lower the subframe. Ive never done that and I just dont to lower it too far. This rear header goin in is like an evil effen rubix cube!

camopaint this only real snags have been contorting my body in ungodly position both under and over my ride to get at the header bolts. Not gonna lie the rear almost had me done in. Its just a series of patience and relaxing to get at some of the bolts. Otherwise its been pretty easy, mind you im a total newb at mechanical stuff Ive never done this kind of work so my lack of confidence has been an issue but ive just been taking my time and referencing GPF. Thank the gods for Bill
 
camopaint0707 said:
So what was the best way you found to remove the rear manifold? I would assume you dropped it out the bottom correct?
Click to expand...

Yeah pull the front manifold off first, then the cross over, pull the downpipe, and lower the subframe to get at the rear manifold bolts is what I did. If you just follow Bills write up it wont steer ya wrong.
 


Well I got the rear header in, tip... pull the trans dip stick. Albeit its a mother to get that trans dip stick to mount back up (due to the new cross over blocking the access to the bolt for the mount) it allowed the header to slide right in! Thats it for tonight hope to get this finished up tomorrow.
 
I didn't have to pull the dipstick...I allowed the header to massage it. The ZZP was a little more of a challenge than SD's. The writeup is more SD than ZZP. On the zzp, as you bring it up and in.. try to bend the EGR tube to start aiming in the right direction. Bing bang boom..you should be done.
 


Heh thanks Bill for that heads up cause I was scratchin the crap outta my head when my EGR didnt line up after I got the rear header in. So I take it its a flex tube that can be bent slightly.

I must note that my trans dip stick does clearly hit. From what I read this will cause false KR correct? What is my solution to this bend the trans dip stick?
 
If it's clanking..yes..if it's solid..no Be careful of where the tab is welded to it. That likes to crack and leak at that point. And yes on the egr tube. It's a bit more of a bend than I was comfy putting into the tube, however I had 3-4 sitting on the shelf so I didn't really sweat it.
 
BillBoost37 said:
If it's clanking..yes..if it's solid..no Be careful of where the tab is welded to it. That likes to crack and leak at that point. And yes on the egr tube. It's a bit more of a bend than I was comfy putting into the tube, however I had 3-4 sitting on the shelf so I didn't really sweat it.
Click to expand...

When you say solid do you mean if the trans dip stick is literally pressed against the cross over to not worry about it. There is little to no movement of the dip stick against the cross over they are pretty buddy buddy right now.
 
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