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Header and manifold Thread

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Bio248 said:
if S&S came in bigger primaries/downpipe they would be the best header to buy, by far.
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But if we were talking horsepower:Cash ratio here
would they still be worth it
Im still kinda trapped in to Togs cause they are the only ca legal header and smog craps getting more strict
 
What does bigger primaries mean? I'm guessing this is the sube that connects to the engine? Bigger primaries I'm guessing is more flow from the engine to the downpipe?

Sorry not to knowledgable with headers..
 
Yup you're on the right track.

I saw some headers on ebay that look just like the ssac headers for 200 shipped but I don't like how close that pipe gets to the ground:(
 


if i were to buy headers again id either drop some money and pay for S&S again or id get pacesetters and weld them.
 
Bio248 said:
if i were to buy headers again id either drop some money and pay for S&S again or id get pacesetters and weld them.
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what exactly needs to be welded? i have a friend who is really good with a welder and i could potentially have him do it vs. me getting SSAC
 


are you lowered? if not dont worry about it. its not a big deal. the pic makes it look worse than it is.
 
My car is gonna be a little lower because my 18 rims have the wrong size tires. I don't have the cash right now to buy the right size. It's gonna be probably an 1 or 2 lower, I'm guessing.
 
kfish said:
are you lowered? if not dont worry about it. its not a big deal. the pic makes it look worse than it is.
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As of now, no, but I'm going ot replace the struts and go ahead a put vogtland springs, but i might not if there might be a problem with ground clearance.
 


bluegtp91 said:
Dakota...I welded the crossover and rear header to the "y" and the 3 bolt flange to the DP...see pics there...

http://www.grandprixforums.net/f73/leak-free-pacesetter-modification-16085.html
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I read through that before. Good info and pics but is the point you're making at the end that you have to have the DP bolted to the cat and if it's welded to the cat you cant take it off? I was planning on getting headers and putting them in myself then taking it to a shop to get the cat welded on.
 
IMO, I'd leave the downpipe off and just drive it there open DP. If you have a cat your putting in it...have them put it up on the lift and test fit...weld the cat on the DP and then weld the top of the DP to the collector (or "Y")...they SHOULD be able to weld the "Y" to the crossover and rear header also while he is up there...just has to have a guy with a water bottle spraying it to keep the flame down when it gets close to the firewall. I went to a good friend of mine in Excelsior Springs...so I don't know if you want to drive your car that far to get it all welded up...is that the info your looking for?
 
i tried i have them weld my y pipe up, he did not get the top part and it still leaked, so i had to grind all the welds down (which was very difficult getting inbetween the pipes) so i couldent flatten all the welds. i put the clamps on and it they did not seal up fully so now im gonna have to pull it all off one day.

the clamps i got from pacesetters sealed the headers right up, but they were not stong enough to hold the headers together. those clamps that i posted are. the clamps will seal them up (i would use some rtv on them while your at it) if you dont want to have to go thru the trouble of welding.


welding turned out to be more of a pain in the ass for me. plus you could just take the clamps off if you ever wanna take the headers off and it would be alot easier coming out, not all in one big peice.


all in the route you wanna take tho.
 
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