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Having some issues with our recently purchased car. Please help.

mngtp said:
Im at work. I just had the service manager read the SES code (he use t work at a GM dealership). It came up with P404 and P1404 codes. He said the codes were saying its a bad EGR valve. Is this true? He also said as far as the boost issue, the blower is going out. What do you guys think? Could the lack of boost be affected by a bad egr valve? I just looked on craigslist and I called John's auto parts (a junk yard here in minnesota) and a used supercharger is $200-$300. The egr valve is $150. I really hate those kind of suprises. I would really like your guys' feedback. You guys seem to know these cars best. Thanks.
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Your supercharger isn't going out. If you had full boost and then all of the sudden had half boost, you knocked a vacuum line off somewhere or damaged the bypass valve by accident. I've never one of these superchargers fail and immediately output less boost. If anything, they wear over time and probably lose a nominal amount of output. A "failing" blower would be one that is making loud bearing noises and even that blower would still make full boost. :o
 


I know its probably a dumb question. But what is PB? I quickly cleaned the egr valve last night. The light went off after driving about 10 miles on the freeway while I was going to the store, but came back on on the way to work. Do you think I just need to clean the egr valve better?
 
Sounds like you will need to replace the EGR. PB Blaster is a penetrating catalyst that you spray on nuts that are rusted and froze up.
pbblaster.jpg
 
Ok. I had a guy at work watch the boost gauge while I reved the engine and worked with the valve. If I hold the arm (under the bbv, its the black dome thing like in the picture posted) up, nothing happens. But if I push it down so it is flat, it boosts full. I sprayed PB but it didnt make a difference. I reved the engine wthout touching it, the arm doesnt go all the way flat. I hope this makes sense. Any ideas? Ugh this is annoying. I bet its getting a little annoying for you guys too.
 
That about how my luck goes. Is it possible to replace the bbv? If so how hard is it? What would I need? And what would I need to do to replace the bbv? If I dont fix it, will it hurt anything else besides the performance of the car? This is my first car with a blower.
 


Is the electrical connector on the valve plugged in? Are you verifying that there is no vacuum leak? It's highly unlikely that the bypass valve would fail without any outside interference.

If it indeed needs to be replaced it is a cheap and easy part to replace though.
 
I looked and didnt see any loose, broken, cracked, or separated vacume lines. I even sprayed carb cleaner all over like the tech at my job told me to do to detect any leaks and I found nothing. I will look to see about the electrical connection in the morning. I assume the connector is on the black dome part of the bbv. Correct?
 
I dont believe that the BBV has any electrical connections, it only has vacuum connections. Unless, Mike is talking about the BBV solenoid which is #7 on the vacuum diagram that I posted earlier in the thread. My car is at the muffler shop gettin some tips welded in, so I cant verify. But Im pretty positive the BBV itself has no electrical connections.
 
mngtp said:
Ok. I had a guy at work watch the boost gauge while I reved the engine and worked with the valve. If I hold the arm (under the bbv, its the black dome thing like in the picture posted) up, nothing happens. But if I push it down so it is flat, it boosts full. I sprayed PB but it didnt make a difference. I reved the engine wthout touching it, the arm doesnt go all the way flat. I hope this makes sense. Any ideas? Ugh this is annoying. I bet its getting a little annoying for you guys too.
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I missed this post... Does that arm go flat (horizontal) with the engine off? The more I think about it the less sense this makes as a vacuum leak would result in the valve staying closed which would result in constant boost. The arm connecting that piece is adjustable. If nothing else I would just adjust the boost bypass so that that little metal piece at the end of the rod stays flat under throttle (and with the engine off) and stays vertical when the engine is idling.
 
The arm is flat when the engine is off. But when the engine is running it is verticle. When the engine is reved the arm moves, but doesnt go all the way flat. How do I adjust the arm if that is what I need to do to fix the boost problem?
 


That's odd. It's as if the bypass is never seeing zero vacuum, even at wide open throttle or the spring that forces the bypass to return is broken and overcome by pressurized air. Have you checked to make sure that spring is indeed properly seated?
 
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